It's possible this isn't a TigerVNC problem.
It could be a Cinnamon problem.
In my $(hostname):1.log, I'm seeing a LOT of:
dconf-CRITICAL **: 14:01:44.101: unable to create directory '/run/user/0/dconf': Permission denied. dconf will not work properly.
repeatedly.
I'm wondering if Cinnamon thinks I want to run as root, but cannot, because I'm starting "vncsession dastromberg :1" as root.
I'd kind of like to try just running fvwm2 or something under vnc, mostly as a test but also as a fallback if Cinnamon doesn't work out. But I'm googling a bunch of not finding how to do it. In the past, I would invoke fvwm2 from my ~/.vnc/xstartup, but that doesn't appear to work anymore (?).
Thanks!