Freightliner Battery Connection Diagram
Madeline Crocket
1. Bad battery or low charge, or bad connections at the battery terminals. If the terminals are full of white snowy looking stuff disconnect them and clean them up. If a terminal is loose (you can turn it with your hand) tighten it. Check the battery voltage. A fully charged car battery would read about 12.6 VDC. 12.3V is 50% charged. Less than that and you will quite often have a starting problem. Even if the battery voltage seems OK you should try jumping the truck to see if it'll start - a failing battery may have a reasonable voltage readout but very little capacity available, making it unable to start the vehicle.
2. No power to the starter motor or a defective starter motor. What's called the "starter" has 2 power connections - a large wire that provides power to the starter motor, and a smaller wire that powers the starter solenoid. When the key is turned to start the solenoid will engage the gear on the starter with the ring gear on the flywheel as well as trigger the starter motor to begin turning. If there's no power to the starter motor but power everywhere else you'd hear a "click!" noise when you turned to start but nothing else - ie. no whirring or cranking noises. If you don't hear that click (you might need someone to stand outside with the hood up to hear it) go to #2. The cause of this problem is usually one of 3 things - a failed starter motor, a bad connection between the battery and starter motor, or a blown fuse (if present) in line between the starter and the battery. A test for DC voltage between a ground point (eg. battery negative terminal or the engine block) and the large wire on the starter can diagnose a blown fuse (it will read 0V) but it can't be used to indicate if the connection or starter are ok. The simplest way to diagnose that problem is to clean the battery terminals and the large starter terminal (MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY + TERMINAL BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE STARTER CABLE OR YOU COULD GET A SEVERE BURN). If it still isn't starting take the starter off and have it tested (you can test it yourself if you can mount the starter somehow so it won't jump, connect jumper cables to the battery with the - cable going to the metal body/frame of the starter and the + connected to the big starter terminal AND the small solenoid terminal at the same time - but be forewarned that if the starter isn't firmly mounted it'll jump like crazy and can hurt you!).
3. If the starter isn't clicking you have a problem in the starting circuit that drives the solenoid. Start by disconnecting the solenoid wire (the small one) from the starter. Use a voltmeter to test for DC voltage between that wire and a ground connection (battery - terminal or the engine block) when the ignition is turned to Start. Make sure you're getting good, solid connections to ground and the wire or you'll get a false result. If you don't get around +12V there's a problem earlier in the circuit. Go to step #3. If you do get +12V clean the terminal on the starter and the cable and reconnect them and try again. If it still doesn't start you've got a bad starter solenoid.
The way it would be diagnosed is to follow the wiring diagram from the battery up through the ignition switch and out to the starter solenoid. There should be 12V at each point along the way (after the ignition switch the 12V would be present when the switch was turned to START). When you find the first point with no voltage the previous component is the problem area. However, if the problem is at the ECU or the Anti-Theft or Autostart the actual problem may be in a completely different circuit altogether - eg. it's not uncommon for some aftermarket autostart system to prevent a car from starting if the hood switch is damaged or not working correctly.
I changed my starter on my 95 silveradio now. When i turn. My key.on i get nodashlights and t he dam fbing wwont rven turn lver and something is draining my battery please help i. Have been. fighting t bis problem going 3 days
I just had this issue in my 08 Saturn aura. Take the key out and let the door ding and turn up radio. Then open your fuse box and pull relays one by one until radio goes off and door stops dinging. Your truck will start after that. Check whatever relay it stopped on and there is your problem. It's probably back feeding.
I was driving my 03 GMC Sierra 6.0 liter and hitting just dyed it has power has voltage to start it but it won't crank it won't even click and it shows on the dash that it's in second gear what is my problem
Mike did you ever figure it out? Mine does the same. Also, if I disconnect batter for a a while, it will crank. I'm thinking it's because it resets the computer, but give it enough time goes back to not cranking or clicking but the lights come on and I can jump it from relay to battery..
Another thing the blower motor would stay running even after taking out key and opening door waiting 6 hours and coming back to it and it would still come on, I turned switch off in between. Any ideas.?
My truck lights come on but will not start it don't make no noice and I hooked up after market fog lights up and it threw a spark then it went dim and now won't start but there is dash lights like power but won't turn over to start
I have a 89 ford Ranger.9.2.i have no power to the inside.the fuse box inside the cab does have no power in none of the fuses. No dash lights. No power at all inside the cab. Put all the fuses underneath the hood work.put a new fuel pump. fuel filter. solenoid. battery. Still haven't found the problem.
Looking for a picture or diagram that shows the wiring hookup for the house battery's.. having a problem and took the battery out of my mh and had checked. They checked good but battery's won't charge up pass low indicator and I have one wire on battery that is hooked to the center of the six volt battery's and don't understand why this is I bought the coach used and just change the battery's not to long ago and took picture before removing them any help would be appreciated. Can't seam to find anything so far on the net.. and holiday rambler has been no help..
I looks like a shielded cable, maybe the temp probe. look and see if the same looking cable is connected to your converter. I have a complete wiring diagram for my 2004 Endeavor and the only odd looking cable is the temp probe
If batteries not charging up like it should, make sure your temperature sensor is good. I had a bad one and the charger cut back cause a shorted temperature sensor had the charger thinking the batteries were overheated.
can someone explain to me exactly what a positive ground battery system is? Does it mean the positive cable on the car goes to the negitive terminal on the battery and neg cable goes to positive terminal? Ive heard some talk about it since coming on here but i guess ive really never looked into it.
Positive ground means that the cable attached to the positive post on the battery (the big one) attaches to GROUND (the engine block, and a smaller braided strap to the chassis/body) on the other end and the NEGATIVE cable runs from the negitive post on the battery (smaller) goes to the starter solenoid, where that current is distributed to the starter when the solenoid is engaged, and the various tap-offs that terminate at the starter soleniod.
It makes no difference at all to the car, except that certain parts are polarity sensitive such as the radio and the ammeter. These parts are made to get their power in a particular way. So just put the battery in the way the maker intended.
Don't forget about having to polarize the generator. When I got my DA the previous owner said that there was something wrong with the charging system, as it would read a discharge as the engine RPM was increased. Everything in the system checked out fine, polarized the generator, no more problem.
Bill-W The Vauxhall's i have owned were a 1948 J model which i owned for 12 yrs and a 1969 PC cresta 17yrs both were neg ground , my austin was a 1936 AUSTIN 7 about 5 yrs, it was neg ground , my Morris was a late 60's morris 1300 also neg ground. i dont live in the US perhaps the North American export models were different than the British domestic models and those exported to Australia ,New Zealand ,India etc
American cars standardised on 12 volt negative ground starting in 1955 or 56. Some did this earlier. I have heard of a 1953 Cadillac limousine that was half 6 volt, half 12 and it supposedly came that way from the factory.
Also ALL British Vehicles imported after WWII were 12 volt positive ground. I owned several Rootes and BMC types and all were positive ground. I remember distinctly having to flip jumper cables while trying to jump start any of my cars during the 50s or early 60s.By 1971 my new MGBGT was 12 volt negative ground. MGs had two 6 volt batteries,one on each side of the drive tunnel under the rear seat,hooked in series for 12 volts but negative ground. I remember that very well as I bought and installed one of those Bell transistorized capacitve discharge ignition systems.
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