A Bouldering Guide To Utah
Brie Hoffler
Just started going outdoors in SLC to boulder, and have gathered that this is the absolute best book to get for Utah bouldering. I understand that this went out of print at some point in the 2000's, but was wondering if anyone had the story on this. A little bird told me that the UPS right next to IME has it on file and will print/bind it for $37, so I went and did that. While it's awesome that there is this cheap of an alternative, it leaves much to be desired. At the risk of sounding ungrateful, whoever copied it did a pretty bad job.
It's a 15-years old guide to pretty much every bouldering area in a state which is completely stacked with boulders and see constant development. Yeah it's incomplete and doesn't have anything resembling beta, topos, descriptions,etc... but it still beats the Proj.
Edit: the pic of Ibex which the OP posted is a good example. Good luck finding your way around Candyland in Ibex with your iPhone.
Are you talking about specifically for Joes Valley? The Joes Valley portion is ok but remember that between the time this printed and now, there's been a massive amount of development in Joes. Joes itself needs a few more years of development and then someone to come create a guidebook specifically for it. I'd say the Joes Valley section of the black bible is a decent introduction to the area and a lot of the main easy to reach areas.
On September 1, 2022, we learned of the passing of Cody Bradford, a friend, an inspiration, an educator and community member. During his time as a guide, he made an indelible impact on the industry and those around him, with an unceasing smile and positivity and the way he welcomed others into the outdoors through teaching (#TechTipTuesday), humor and compassion. We first met Cody five years ago and it was his love for people, enthusiasm for guiding, and determination to become a fully certified mountain guide that impressed us and motivated us to build this company. Cody began his guiding career with the North Carolina Outward Bound School in 2012 and rapidly tackled challenge after challenge to gain his AMGA Rock Guide Certification in April 2018. We were lucky to have worked with Cody and he will forever be a part of the soul of 57hours. He will be deeply missed and remembered by the 57hours team.
In memory of Cody Bradford
Utah rock climbing is some of the best and most varied on earth. Red River Adventures offers the best Rock Climbing Guide Service and Climbing Instruction for beginners to experts in Moab; Salt Lake City; Maple Canyon, Utah; and Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas. Whether you want a fun and exciting day of guided rock climbing or are looking to expand your climbing skill set through top-notch rock climbing instruction, Red River Adventures has what you are looking for!Call Today and Book an Unforgettable Rock Climbing Tour in Moab
If you visit Utah, bring a crash pad. The state has some of the best bouldering in the America. Here's a visual tour of the best areas - Joe's Valley, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Big Bend, and Ibex. All photos are from the new guidebook Utah Bouldering, available from Rock and Run.
Chris is my buddy (and the guidebook author) so I had to include a couple of shots of him. Here he is on They Call Him Jordan V7, a explosive little number that Chris calls "the best boulder problem at Joe's Valley." Praise indeed -- many people consider Joe's to be the best bouldering area in the state.
Big Bend is a historic area (God probably bouldered here back in the day). Consequently it has some of the hardest problems - and stiffest grades in the state. The locals just love to sandbag and have the place wired. Last time I visited Noah Bigwood, (chief local and author of the Big Bend section of the guidebook - beware his grades!) was downing cans of beer in between running laps on Hellbelly, a brilliant- "V11" -- that both Klem Loskott and Fred Nicole failed to repeat.
Fortunately, halfway through my stay, two random dudes (and I do mean random) showed up in a truck. It was a relief to meet Shane and Jerry. Finally I could get a spot on the Red Monster, an amazing boulder with a 100-foot long, 25-degree overhanging wall stacked with testy highballs: Ju (V7), Blue Flowers (V7), Bruce Lee (V10), Big Gulp (V8) etc, etc. Some people consider it the best bouldering face in the USA.
In conclusion, Utah offers an unparalleled climbing experience with diverse landscapes and challenges, catering to climbers of all skill levels and preferences. From the red rock paradise of Eastern Utah to the urban climbing haven of Salt Lake City, this comprehensive guide has provided you with all the information you need to embark on an unforgettable adventure. So, pack your gear and get ready to explore the best rock climbing Utah has to offer!
Once we pick you up or meet with your group, we will do all the heavy lifting! Our Wilderness First Responder Certified guides will teach you how to belay, set up the ropes, and coach you on climbing techniques that will give you the skills you need to scale the walls!
Our certified guides are there to make sure you have a fun and challenging rock-climbing adventure that is done in a safe way. All physical activity comes with some risk, but thanks to the stringent safety regulations and gear that climbers use it is generally one of the safest sports you can participate in!
Many new climbers in urban areas and in general, are first introduced to the sport in gyms featuring top-rope climbing or auto-belay systems. Many advance to lead climbing which is clipping into anchors as you ascend. This experience is very beneficial, but quite different from climbing in the great outdoors on different types of rock. The technicalities and nuances of climbing are quite broad, so the best way to learn is through the teachings and instruction of a professional guide. They will teach you the basics of gear handling, and essential safety precautions.
Our Rock Odysseys guides set up a standard top rope anchor system. This will ensure safety and ideally instill the confidence needed to focus on footwork and techniques, the rush and sense of accomplishment, and the spectacularly scenic back-drop of the Zion National Park area.
Multi-pitch routes are available for more experienced climbers. Mock Lead climbing is a great way to practice becoming a Lead Climber. Our guides are extremely capable and prepared to help you achieve your climbing goals.
Thanks for a fantastic day. Todd Passey is a world class guide. He found great lines and snow. Most importantly he kept me safe. Todd was so impressive at navigating the elements and knowing all of the variables. Thanks for an experience I will not forget.
Just wanted to say we had a FANTASTIC time today on our first backcountry tour. Eric was a wonderful, knowledgable and high-competent guide who truly made our day the best it could ever be. Thank you!
Quino is a wonderful guide - did a great job taking us up Cardiff pass, couple runs on the slopes north of the pass, and then back to Alta. Quino was great - easy going, set the right pace so that we could all keep up, picked a good route for us. Just perfect - many thanks for having him guide us.
Just wanted to drop a quick note thanking you guys for setting me up with such a great guide yesterday! Colby was great and I had an amazing time in the snow. His expertise, professionalism and knowledge of the area was unprecedented.
Join Utah Mountain Adventures for guiding or instruction in Utah's Wasatch range, a world class climbing area with outstanding vertical landscapes of granite, quartzite, limestone and alpine peaks. Learn techniques and routes in Little Cottonwood, Big Cottonwood, Mt. Olympus , Bell's Canyon, etc. Our guides know the routes intimately and can help you excel while making your climb as memorable as the scenery.
Or build skills in a course, such as the Rock Climbing Clinic or Multi-Pitch Rock Climbing Course, Teton Prep, Canyoneering Course, or Learn to Lead. Safety and client satisfaction are paramount at Utah Mountain Adventures. We limit the size of our groups to ensure individual attention from our highly experienced guides.
UMA also specializes in corporate team-building and just-for-fun, group climbing activities. Participants learn trust by belaying and lowering one another under guides' supervision. Climbers overcome fear and push each other while scaling vertical walls and rappelling down. Venues in the Cottonwood Canyons are easily reached, can accommodate large groups, and offer climbing challenges from friendly to 5.13.
This clinic is designed for climbers looking to become competent leading natural-protection routes. We will use "mock leading" on a top rope for security, while you learn the intricacies of placing gear on lead, under the watchful eye of a professional climbing guide.
Micah was an awesome guide. I am a engineering software trainer and part-time dance instructor myself, so I really appreciate a high quality instructor and a high level of professionalism. I am a beginner and Micah made everything very easy for me. He clearly knows his stuff and makes it easy and very safe. The whole day was very enjoyable.
My son, (age 13) and I recently spent a couple days climbing in Big Cottonwood Canyon with Annie Trujillo. We're both pretty new to climbing; We had a great time, and Annie was a great guide. She taught us a lot, challenged us, helped us keep ourselves safe, and made the trip fun and rewarding. Best of all, my son loved it and says he'll do it again.
Where the Wasatch Plateau meets the high desert, Joe's Valley sits as a world-class bouldering destination. Beautifully color streaked boulders dot the landscape just east of Joe's Valley Reservoir in Central Utah's "Castle Country". With a seemingly endless supply of sandstone boulders, finger-friendly stone, short approaches, great camping and generally nice landings it is not a stretch to imagine Joe's taking its rightful place as a premier bouldering zone.
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