Hello Kitty Paper Design
Noah Casanova
Please help! I have been asked to create a Hello Kitty pull apart cake and through tutorials on the internet, I've learned how to place the cupcakes to make a cake and how to stick them together, but can't find any tutorials on how to decorate the cake.. Here are my questions:
- What should I use to trace/decorate the Hello Kitty head? Black icing? Piping gel? I'm trying to avoid having a licorice taste..it's for a 4-year old.
- My friend wants whipped cream instead of buttercream or frosting? How do I keep it from melting before the outside birthday party?
- Is there a cake board or a box that I can buy that would hold 36 cupcakes?
Any ideas are appreciated! Thanks in advance..
I would say go with your comfort level, it's hard to say because you have no pictures posted. You could frost each in a cupcake tip swirl, or ice as a whole. I personally don't like gel, and would do all bettercreme, or pastry pride. Depending on where your at for an out door event, keep it refrigerated as long as possible. You probably want to hit up a Michaels or cake supply shop, for a the box, and board you will need (maybe a half sheet)
You could do similar to what I did for the halloween cupcake cake that's in my photos.
I wouldn't use a whipped icing if it isn't going to hold in heat. You're the expert. You need to tell your friend that to do the design as requested, a proper buttercream is what you need to use. If she doesn't want that, then you may have to suggest an alternate design.
Anyway, You put all of the cupcakes on a large cakeboard in the shape you are using for the design. That board should be able to fit in a cake box. Stick them down with a bit of icing (or however you were going to do so). Ice the top of the cupcakes with a fairly thick layer of your icing. If the background is going to be white, just do it in white. But you need enough icing to fill in any gaps you have between the cupcakes. Smooth if flat. This is going to be the background of the picture, so as smooth as you can is better.
Take your Hello Kitty picture. If there are words at all on it, then you have to print it out in reverse. Place a piece of waxed paper or parchment paper over it and pipe out all of the lines, not just the outline, in piping gel. Take the waxed paper and turn it over so the design is on the bottom and carefully place it where the design will be going. Use a light brush (I use a clean paint brush) and gently brust all of the lines of the design. This will transer the outline to the iced "cake". Carefully peel off the waxed paper.
Take black buttercream, and pipe over the piping gel lines. No one will see the gel once you're done, and it's tasteless. The black gel colour doesn't taste like licorice. If you don't want the lines to be so obvious, then pipe the outline in white.
Then basically you can "colour" the design. Using the different colours of your icing that make up your picture, you can use the star tip and pipe in the colours. When you've completed the Hello Kitty picture, just pipe a border and you're done. As long as the remaining area of the cake is smooth, you don't have to do anything else. If you want, you can always continue and just pipe with the star tip so the background looks the same.
Just a suggestion..
This wonderful home decor project is a special option for a wedding gift or unique birthday present! Just follow my paper cut light box tutorial video to change the focal point or image. It will be a great gift with your own unique feel!
I'll show you how to create the light box design and adjust it with your own focal point using the customizable file. I'll also show you how to make the DIY cardstock frame with the "no-score-tool" version of the file and lights.
To work in a light box layer, an image must have solid areas that are all connected and all one color. If the pieces are separate from each other, they'll be difficult to place correctly in the layers.
Look for images that are mostly solid with some areas of cutouts for interest. Silhouettes that are all one piece work great and are easy to drop in to your light box layers. And since we want to add a shape to our layer instead of cut it out of a solid section, there must be a solid outline around the edge to keep the details together.
Hold Shift on your keyboard and select both the couple and the custom barn layer. Click "Weld" below the Layers Panel. Depending on which version of Design Space you're using, you may need to click "Combine" first.
If you want to cut the layers out of the same color cardstock, click "Select All" in the top menu and change the color swatch box to one color. White or very light colors will work best to let light through.
The pieces are colored in three different shades of gray. The light gray pieces (A, B, C) are for the front of the frame, the medium gray pieces (D, E, F) are for the back, and the dark gray pieces (G, H) are for the inner "shelves", which will hold the layers in place. While we'll cut them all out of the same cardstock, this approach will tell the Cricut to cut the components on different mats, so you can keep them straight.
Make sure you have six mats showing on your Prepare screen. Remember, your colors may be different. If you added an object, make sure it will cut as one piece with the correct layer and that there are no tiny pieces that will cut by themselves.
On the Make screen, select the "Cardstock (for intricate cuts)" setting. To find it, click "Browse All Materials" and type "Intricate" in the search bar. Then select the result, click "Done," and leave the Pressure at "Default."
Place your first mat's cardstock face up on your blue LightGrip machine mat and use a brayer to make sure it's fully adhered. Check that your Fine-Point Blade is clean and in Clamp B. Then, load the mat into the machine and press "Go."
Lay a piece of butcher paper down to keep your frame pieces clean. Place your matching pieces together like they are on your reference sheet. Find Pieces A, B, and C, which will make up the front of the frame.
Apply glue to the outside of the larger section of each piece and adhere them to the inside of the frame's sides. The two small shelves will go on the left and right sides and the two large ones will go on the top and bottom. The long unfolded edge of each piece should be aligned at the very bottom of each side, which will leave about a half inch above the shelf for the design layers to rest on.
Grab your lights and turn them on to make sure they work. If you're using the LED strip lights from my materials list, you'll need to correctly insert three AA batteries and use the button on the battery pack or the included remote to turn them on.
We need to cut a small notch in the frame's backing so the LED light wire connected to the battery pack can slide through. Place your frame's backing piece face down (hardware facing up and at the top) on your self-healing mat. Use your craft knife to carefully make a diagonal cut across one of the bottom corners about a half an inch tall. Discard the triangular piece you cut off.
Place the shadow box with the assembled layers inside face down. Take your lights and make sure the wire without any lights and the battery pack itself are both outside the frame and not attached. This will be placed behind the box when it's displayed.
Starting in the same bottom corner as the notch on your backing, attach the exposed adhesive to the inside of the frame about a quarter inch from the top. Don't start at the very top to leave room for the backing piece to fit inside above the lights.
The lights from my materials list are long enough to wrap around the inside of the shadow box three times. The more lights you attach, the better you can see the layers, so attach another row of lights directly below your first one. You will have to angle the strip down a bit at the beginning, but you can straighten it out after that.
If you have any space below your third strip of lights and above your cardstock layers, you can keep the cardstock layers from moving or sagging by attaching a few glue dots (I used the 3D ones for this) around the perimeter. Make sure the glue dots touch both your cardstock and the side of the frame to adhere them.
First, turn on your lights to make sure they work. If you're using the LED strip lights from my materials list, you'll need to correctly insert three AA batteries and use the button on the battery pack or the included remote to turn them on.
Take the back piece of your frame with the shelves attached and place it flat in front of you. Make sure the wire without any lights and the battery pack itself are outside the frame and not attached. Starting in one of the bottom corners inside of your frame, attach the exposed adhesive to the side of the frame, under the shelves.
Since the cardstock frame isn't as sturdy as the glass shadow box, only one row of lights fits without making it sag. Find the closest spot on your light strip where it can be cut. This will be denoted by a small scissors icon with + and - symbols on both sides. Make sure your lights are off and use your scissors to cut the lights in this area.
Start by attaching the lights at the end near the battery pack. Make sure the wire without any lights and the battery back itself are outside the frame and not attached. Place a glue dot in a bottom corner of your frame, under the shelves. Then press the wire next to the first fairy light against it to adhere it.
Continue attaching glue dots evenly around the inside edge -- about two to three inches apart -- and pressing the wire sections on top. Once your entire strand of fairy lights is attached, it should cover the entire perimeter of the frame, with some overlap at the end.
After adding either type of lights, take your assembled design layers and place them on top of the shelves inside the frame to make sure they fit well and look even. Then, place a medium glue dot in the center of each shelf piece and carefully press down on the assembled layers to adhere them to the shelves.
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