Betta with progressive fin rot

[yng...@aol.com]

Hi, we have a lovely copper-colored betta whom I recently noticed had
chopped up fins (mainly dorsal). He had been in a five gallon tank
with some shrimp and snails. I removed him to a hospital tank, which
is a 6 gallon Eclipse and began a course of tetracycline, because bits
of his fins are missing and I am assuming it is fin rot. The other
possibility is that he might have cut up his fins on a tank
decoration, but the only thing in the tank that might have done that
is a small piece of driftwood, which I removed.

However, this is the day after the last dose of tetracycline and his
fins look no better and in one part looks more eaten away. The edges
of his fins are naturally dark so it's a little hard to tell whether
that's from fin rot, but I don't see any white edges or red.

I just did a 50 percent water change and replaced the carbon filter.
Any idea what I should try next? Here is what I have on hand: Jungle
Fungus Clear (not Fungus Eliminator), Maracyn, Maracyn-Two, KanaPlex
(kanamycin), API General Cure, Furan-2, and Melafix and Pimafix.

What should I try next? I am worried that it's getting close to his
body now.

He does tend to hang around the filter intake, so I was thinking that
might have been damaging his fins, but in the other tank it was a
Tetra Whisper and this one has the usual Eclipse intake tube. I've had
other bettas in Eclipse 6 tanks without any harm to their fins, so I
was hoping if that was the problem, it would stop once he was moved
out of the five gallon tank. I kept the five gallon tank at 78 degrees
and have boosted the temp in the Eclipse to 80. I added a little salt
(just a half tsp) but didn't want to overdo it all at once because
normally I do not add salt to the betta tanks, just Betta Spa.

Thanks for any advice.
-yngver

[yng...@aol.com]

To add to my own post, just looked more closely and I do see some
redness at the end of a couple of fin rays. This is a half moon delta
betta but most the upper half of the "half moon" is shredded or
eroded. Although his fins look terrible, the good part is that he is
behaving normally and eating. Just hope I can treat this before it
gets much worse. I didn't notice it at first because it started in the
dorsal fin, which is normally kept draped and not spread out unless he
flares.
-yngver

[Tynk]

Hi there.
OK....
You've already done a 50% water change.
I would go with the fungus clear now.
Remove any live plants if you have any. Some meds will kill certain
plants.
Keep up the good work though!

[yng...@aol.com]

Thanks. I'm not sure it's helping. I don't think the fins look any
worse, but they don't look any better either and he's lost most of his
caudal and dorsal fins. Oddly, perhaps, the rest is untouched, which
makes me wonder if it's actually fin rot. Is there a way to tell if
he's a tail biter? I haven't seen him do it.

The other thing I notice is that one of his dorsal rays looks bent. I
had him in a 5 gallon tank that I knew was not ideal, because the
substrate contains ocean sand as well as regular gravel (as a complete
newbie I thought sand is sand and started that tank with some
Caribbean Sea ocean sand, so it has little shells, etc. and makes the
water quite hard). Could very hard water deteriorate his fins? He's
only been in that tank two months, as I was using the Eclipse 6 he is
in now as a QT tank. Previously he was in our 29 gallon tank, but the
filter creates too strong a current for him there, so I moved him to
my five gallon shrimp tank.

We first noticed his shredded up fins a few days after adding a small
assassin snail to that tank, but I really don't see how the assassin
snail could tear up a betta's dorsal and caudal fins. Maybe the anal
fin while he is resting at the bottom, but as I said, the anal fin and
pectoral fin are still perfectly fine.

I do have some hornwort in the tank but I have that in my other betta
tank as well and it hasn't torn fins.

We ordered some Fish Mox (amoxicillin) and I also have Kanaplex. If
there is no improvement tomorrow when the course of Fungus Clear is
finished, I was planning to do at least a 50 percent water change or
maybe 75 percent, and then probably try the Fish Mox. Does this sound
like the best course of action?

Today I also fed him a couple of thawed bloodworms soaked in Garlic
Guard. Thought it might help build up his immune system.

He was a gorgeous copper half moon that we discovered at Petco and had
to get. I am really upset that he has lost so much finnage and I am
not even sure why. Other than the hardness of the water, the
parameters have been fine (last reading ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate
10, ph 7.5, temp 78) and I do 50 percent water changes once a week.
The tank contains a number of cherry shrimp and trumpet snails--the
assassin snail is supposed to cut down on the MTS but since it only
consumes about one a week, it's not made much of a dent so far.

Thanks for any advice or insight.
-yngver

[Tynk]

On Oct 15, 10:28 pm, "yng...@aol.com" <yng...@aol.com> wrote:
>

Snipped

>To add to my own post, just looked more closely and I do see some
>redness at the end of a couple of fin rays.

That redness alarms me, as well as a comment from your first
post...that the fins "look more eaten away"....
This is why I said to go with the Fungus Clear right away.
It's like the Fungus Eliminator, but in tablet form.
Personally, when I'm dealing with a finrot issue and a betta...I
always do 2 doses of Fungus Eliminator.
Even when the fish looks fine at the end of the first 4 day dose, I do
a 50% water change (or 100% depending on the size of the tank) and do
another 4 day dose.
That's when treating for fin rot and using this medication only
though.
What's the dosage on the Fungus Clear tabs?
Is it a 4 day treatment as well?
When you look at your betta and you don't see new fin growth
yet....but there's no more fin erosion, that's a good thing. You just
have to get him over the top of the hill so that his immune system can
take over, and then regrowth will happen.
Once regrowth starts - you'll be amazed at how fast comes in. Color
will come in after tissue is formed, so don't be alarmed if it's clear
or hazy.

[yng...@aol.com]

Thanks. I don't see any more red or further erosion. Yes, the dosage
for Fungus Clear is one tablet per ten gallons (it's a six gallon
tank, so I added a little more than half a tablet), wait four days,
and then do a 25 percent water change. I'm going to do a bigger change
than that, probably 50 percent at least or maybe more, because the
water still has some tint in it and I removed the filter (except the
Bio Wheel). Then I can either do another 4 day treatment of Fungus
Clear, or use the Fish Mox--which I might do.

The only other thing I have added is a quarter tsp. of Melafix and at
the last water change, I added a quarter tsp. salt per new gallon of
water, so there's a total of maybe 2 tsp. salt in the 6 gallons and I
wasn't going to add any more.

I am still not positive it's fin rot instead of either an injury of
some sort or tail biting. I found a couple of pictures of tail biting
and since only his actual tail and lower part of the dorsal fin are
damaged, I am wondering if that's what this is.

There *might* be a little clear growth at the end of one of the
chomped up rays but I am not sure because his fin color is naturally
dark (grey/black with a copper sheen) with pale edges. And because his
pectoral fins are red and there were a few bits of red color in his
tail fin, it might have been that I was seeing instead of actual
bleeding.

During the time he was in the five gallon tank, I had noticed some
curling of the tips of the dorsal and pectoral fins but I had read
this is generally a genetic trait and was not concerned. Now I am not
so sure.

Thanks again--
yngver

[Tynk]

On Oct 16, 4:18 pm, "yng...@aol.com" <yng...@aol.com> wrote:

> Thanks. I don't see any more red or further erosion. Yes, the dosage
> for Fungus Clear is one tablet per ten gallons (it's a six gallon
> tank, so I added a little more than half a tablet), wait four days,
> and then do a 25 percent water change. I'm going to do a bigger change
> than that, probably 50 percent at least or maybe more, because the
> water still has some tint in it and I removed the filter (except the
> Bio Wheel). Then I can either do another 4 day treatment of Fungus
> Clear, or use the Fish Mox--which I might do.
>

Good to hear there no more fin erosion.
I prefer a 50% water change, but that's just my own preference.
I stick to a 2 dose treatment in this situation before thinking of
changing meds. Unless there was still fin damage, I would stay on
track.

> I am still not positive it's fin rot instead of either an injury of
> some sort or tail biting. I found a couple of pictures of tail biting
> and since only his actual tail and lower part of the dorsal fin are
> damaged, I am wondering if that's what this is.

When you have a tail biter, it pretty much becomes obvious. It's
something they do out of boredom. A bad habit. However, you'd notice
him doing it.
The tail biters I've had did it when they did not have a flare
buddy.....be it another male in a tank next to it, or a mirror 24-7 to
flare in.
My daughter had one that started biting when his tank mates died (they
were old, he was not). I had to get him some more Glo-lights, and then
he stopped.
The reasons for tail biting isn't always as obvious, but you'll see
them do it.

>
> There *might* be a little clear growth at the end of one of the
> chomped up rays but I am not sure because his fin color is naturally
> dark (grey/black with a copper sheen) with pale edges. And because his
> pectoral fins are red and there were a few bits of red color in his
> tail fin, it might have been that I was seeing instead of actual
> bleeding.

Oh man! Double trouble.
You'll just have to watch for the length of the fin.
If you have a camera, use it.
Judging fin growth is a lot easier when you can compare pics right
next to each other.

>
> During the time he was in the five gallon tank, I had noticed some
> curling of the tips of the dorsal and pectoral fins but I had read
> this is generally a genetic trait and was not concerned. Now I am not
> so sure.

Curling can happen. Some breeders like it, some see it as a fault.
Some can end up with a wavy - almost flower petal-like appearance.

[yng...@aol.com]

Well, I caught him in the act biting his tail. He tends to make sort
of sharp turns around the corners of the tank, and this time I saw him
turn all the way around, spy his tail floating next to him, and he
nipped it. No wonder his tail and fins seem to be shredding in pieces,
and the parts he can't reach are fine.

I finished the Fungus Clear and started on Fish Mox, but I don't see
any regrowth. I guess if he keeps biting it's never going to grow
back.

I am trying to think of a way to put his tank next to our other betta,
which is in another 6 gallon Eclipse. Do you think that would be
something to try? Otherwise I might buy one of those floating betta
mirrors.

He wasn't doing this when he was in the 29 gallon community tank. I
wonder if I should try putting him back, although if he does have fin
rot I don't want to chance spreading it. And at the time he was in the
bigger tank, I didn't have the three platys I have now and I wonder if
they might be nippy.

Any ideas on what else to try to get him to stop the biting? Should I
continue to treat for fin rot?

Thanks--
yngver

[Frank Bayne]

From: "yng...@aol.com" <yng...@aol.com>

                      ................snip.............

I am trying to think of a way to put his tank next to our other betta,
which is in another 6 gallon Eclipse. Do you think that would be
something to try? Otherwise I might buy one of those floating betta
mirrors.

He wasn't doing this when he was in the 29 gallon community tank. I
wonder if I should try putting him back, although if he does have fin
rot I don't want to chance spreading it. And at the time he was in the
bigger tank, I didn't have the three platys I have now and I wonder if
they might be nippy.
Any ideas on what else to try to get him to stop the biting? Should I
continue to treat for fin rot?                  Thanks-- yngver

          If the fins are slowly being eaten away, AND edged in white, it's

fin and tail rot. It doesn't sound to me like it's nothing but the fin nipping

thing going on. Trouble is, tissue is already damaged, and can easily

be invaded by fin and tail rot if you put him in a tank without some kind

of medication. Fin and tail rot is a bacterial infection, best treated with

something like; TMP-sulfa, sulfa 4 TMP, neomycin sulfate, tetracycline,

nitrofurazone, nala gram, furan, maracyn two, etc. just to give you a few.

I seem to remember you adding salt - salt will not stop or heal fin and

tail rot. It helps more with their slime coat than anything else.

Before you go out and buy one of those floating mirrors, try sticking a

mirror against one of the tank's ends and see if it helps.........Frank

[Tynk]

On Oct 20, 4:11 pm, "yng...@aol.com" <yng...@aol.com> wrote:
> Well, I caught him in the act biting his tail. He tends to make sort
> of sharp turns around the corners of the tank, and this time I saw him
> turn all the way around, spy his tail floating next to him, and he
> nipped it. No wonder his tail and fins seem to be shredding in pieces,
> and the parts he can't reach are fine.
>
> I finished the Fungus Clear and started on Fish Mox, but I don't see
> any regrowth. I guess if he keeps biting it's never going to grow
> back.
>
> I am trying to think of a way to put his tank next to our other betta,
> which is in another 6 gallon Eclipse. Do you think that would be
> something to try? Otherwise I might buy one of those floating betta
> mirrors.
>
> He wasn't doing this when he was in the 29 gallon community tank. I
> wonder if I should try putting him back, although if he does have fin
> rot I don't want to chance spreading it. And at the time he was in the
> bigger tank, I didn't have the three platys I have now and I wonder if
> they might be nippy.
>
> Any ideas on what else to try to get him to stop the biting? Should I
> continue to treat for fin rot?
>
> Thanks--
> yngver
>

I would finish out the treatment if any time is left on the dosage.
Place a mirror next to his tank ASAP.
A simple "purse" mirror, or any small mirror will do. Being you have
him in an Eclipse be careful not to scratch the outside of the tank.
This would be the most simple way vs trying to move your other 6 gal
Eclipse tank.
I'm so glad you were able to figure out the cause.
Just watch for secondary infections (bacterial or fungal) which can
occur *because* of the damage.
The tissue is open and raw...like handing out an invitation for
bacteria to invade.
Being that you've been treating with a med that takes care of both
issues - you most likely were keeping the nasties away.
Bettas heal very fast all on their own too. I would finish the
treatment (if any time is left on it), do a water change, and give
that boy something to do.
Some need more mental stimulation than others. Some even have a
preference on what that is.
With clean, warm water and something to keep his attention he should
start to heal up fine.
You just have to watch for a secondary infection. If you start to see
fin erosion again, or those red swollen ends, start the treatment
again.
Keeping the tank clean will help greatly though.

[yng...@aol.com]

Thanks, Frank.

Here's a picture so maybe the experts here can tell whether this looks
like tail biting or fin rot:

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp267/yngver1/clancytail.jpg

I don't see any white around the damaged areas. The white (really
light grey) along the edges of his lower, full length fins are his
normal color. Also, the red areas are part of his normal color, and
since he's a dark colored fish (I think this is called copper or
black) some of his fins and rays normally have dark tips as well.

His fins aren't being slowly eaten away, but instead there are strips
or chunks that seem to disappear overnight. Two days there was a strip
hanging off that had been detached in the middle--it seems to me it
had to have been broken off or pulled off because I wouldn't think fin
rot would eat through a fin or ray from the middle and leave the rest
of the detached part looking healthy. But maybe it does--my only
previous experience with fin rot was a very mild case with our first
betta when he was sick from other things and spent a lot of time
resting on the substrate. In his case it was just some fuzz at the
tips and a couple days of Melafix quickly cured it.

In this case, I've already tried a course of tetracycline and a course
of Fungus Clear which says it contains nitrofurazone, furazolidone,
and potassium dichromate. I am now on the fifth day of Fish Mox
(amoxicillin) which was recommended by a betta breeder. I don't see
any regrowth but I don't think it's getting any worse either, except
where I did see him take a nip and pull out a little strand. I had
added salt but cut back as I figured it wasn't doing much good, as you
say. I have been adding a half dose of Melafix every other day.
According to the instructions with Fish Mox, I am doing a 50 percent
water change every other day and I have the water temp. at 80. I also
just added some Betta Spa to darken the water as I was told the
tannins in it help with healing. I have been using it with both my
bettas but only enough to give a light tint to the water.

I tried holding up a mirror and he flared a little, but not much. He
doesn't act sick and eats and swims normally although with a much
shortened tail and dorsal fin he's bottom heavy and tends to sink to
more vertical position at rest. He spends most of his time building a
bubble nest in the corner of the tank.

-yngver

[yng...@aol.com]

Thanks. How long does it normally take before one sees some regrowth?
He's been in the hospital tank with various medications for nine days
now. I do keep looking at the edges of the damaged fins but it looks
the same to me. I have started taking photos, as you advised, but so
far I don't see any difference.

Previously he was in a tank with cherry shrimp and some unwanted
ramshorn snails. He would have tussles with the shrimp--they didn't
seem to be afraid of him and would come and grab a tidbit right from
under his nose, and then he'd snap at them and they'd skitter off.
You'd think that would be mental stimulation but maybe it was just
frustrating.
-yngver

[Frank Bayne]

From: "yng...@aol.com" <yng...@aol.com>
                                   ..............mid posted...............

Here's a picture so maybe the experts here can tell whether this looks
like tail biting or fin rot:
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp267/yngver1/clancytail.jpg

 

             *Doesn't look a bit like fin and tail rot. More like fin nipping and fin splitting. I know with show guppies, to much salt in the water makes their fins split - might be the same with bettas.

I bred and raised bettas and guppies for about 5 years, and never used salt. The guppies I have now came from three different breeders, which didn't have salt in their tanks. I'm thinking the amount of salt you have/had in the bettas water might have something to do with the fin splitting.

 

His fins aren't being slowly eaten away, but instead there are strips
or chunks that seem to disappear overnight. Two days there was a strip
hanging off that had been detached in the middle--it seems to me it
had to have been broken off or pulled off because I wouldn't think fin
rot would eat through a fin or ray from the middle and leave the rest
of the detached part looking healthy. But maybe it does--my only
previous experience with fin rot was a very mild case with our first
betta when he was sick from other things and spent a lot of time
resting on the substrate. In his case it was just some fuzz at the
tips and a couple days of Melafix quickly cured it.

 

             *When fins and tails are slowly being eating away, and edged in white, it's Fin & Tail Rot. When their is a white fuzzy, cotton-like substance on them, and/or on mouth and body, it's Columnaris Disease. When they are frayed looking, sometimes with moldy looking slime on body, and/or - sometimes, flesh eaten away around mouth (mouth fungus/mouth rot), it's Saprolegnia Parasitic Fungus. To which, none of the above look like the pic of your betta. Give it a week for the wounds to heal over and put him back into the 29 gal. tank with some other fish. The poor guy is bored with himself and is biting his fingernails - - - I mean fins and tail. At least that way he will be to busy watching and trying to keep the other fish in the tank from nipping his tail, for him to be doing it to himself................. Frank

 

 

In this case, I've already tried a course of tetracycline and a course
of Fungus Clear which says it contains nitrofurazone, furazolidone,

and potassium dichromate.. I am now on the fifth day of Fish Mox

[yng...@aol.com]

On Oct 22, 4:14 am, Frank Bayne <frankr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> From: "yng...@aol.com" <yng...@aol.com>

>                                    ...............mid posted..............

> Here's a picture so maybe the experts here can tell whether this looks
> like tail biting or fin rot:http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp267/yngver1/clancytail.jpg
>
>              *Doesn't look a bit like fin and tail rot. More like fin nipping and fin splitting. I know with show guppies, to much salt in the water makes their fins split - might be the same with bettas.
> I bred and raised bettas and guppies for about 5 years, and never used salt. The guppies I have now came from three different breeders, which didn't have salt in their tanks. I'm thinking the amount of salt you have/had in the bettas water might have something to do with the fin splitting.

Okay, thanks! I have only been adding salt to the hospital tank--when
he was in the 5 gallon tank I didn't add salt, and after he was in it
a month or so that's when I suddenly noticed chunks of his tail and
dorsal fin were gone. I only add Betta Spa to the 5 gallon, which as I
said, contains just some cherry shrimp and snails. My husband thought
maybe he was starved for attention, because this tank is sort of in a
corner next to the 29 gallon tank (not close enough he could see in it
though). We took him out of the 29 gallon because he didn't seem to
like the current, and I was concerned the driftwood we added for the
plecos might tear his fins.

>
> His fins aren't being slowly eaten away, but instead there are strips
> or chunks that seem to disappear overnight. Two days there was a strip
> hanging off that had been detached in the middle--it seems to me it
> had to have been broken off or pulled off because I wouldn't think fin
> rot would eat through a fin or ray from the middle and leave the rest
> of the detached part looking healthy. But maybe it does--my only
> previous experience with fin rot was a very mild case with our first
> betta when he was sick from other things and spent a lot of time
> resting on the substrate. In his case it was just some fuzz at the
> tips and a couple days of Melafix quickly cured it.
>
>              *When fins and tails are slowly being eating away, and edged in white, it's Fin & Tail Rot. When their is a white fuzzy, cotton-like substance on them, and/or on mouth and body, it's Columnaris Disease.

That must have been what our first crowntail had, but it cleared up
right away with just Melafix.

When they are frayed looking, sometimes with moldy looking slime on
body, and/or - sometimes, flesh eaten away around mouth (mouth fungus/
mouth rot), it's Saprolegnia Parasitic Fungus. To which, none of the
above look like the pic of your betta. Give it a week for the wounds
to heal over and put him back into the 29 gal. tank with some other
fish. The poor guy is bored with himself and is biting his fingernails
- - - I mean fins and tail. At least that way he will be to busy
watching and trying to keep the other fish in the tank from nipping
his tail, for him to be doing it to himself................. Frank

Thanks, Frank. It's worth a try. We have added many more plants,
including some tiger lotus that quickly got big, to the 29 gallon so
there are plenty of places he can hide, rest, or avoid the stronger
current areas if he wants. I'm still a bit concerned about the
driftwood--it's the gnarled, Mopani kind, not smooth--but maybe he'll
be too busy interacting with the tetras and platys to bother draping
himself on a piece of driftwood. There's certainly a lot of action in
that tank and maybe that's what he misses. We thought he might like to
have a little five gallon all to himself with just some shrimp to lord
over, but maybe the interest wore off.

>
> In this case, I've already tried a course of tetracycline and a course
> of Fungus Clear which says it contains nitrofurazone, furazolidone,

> and potassium dichromate. I am now on the fifth day of Fish Mox

> (amoxicillin) which was recommended by a betta breeder. I don't see
> any regrowth but I don't think it's getting any worse either, except
> where I did see him take a nip and pull out a little strand. I had
> added salt but cut back as I figured it wasn't doing much good, as you
> say. I have been adding a half dose of Melafix every other day.
> According to the instructions with Fish Mox, I am doing a 50 percent
> water change every other day and I have the water temp. at 80. I also
> just added some Betta Spa to darken the water as I was told the
> tannins in it help with healing. I have been using it with both my
> bettas but only enough to give a light tint to the water.
>
> I tried holding up a mirror and he flared a little, but not much. He
> doesn't act sick and eats and swims normally although with a much
> shortened tail and dorsal fin he's bottom heavy and tends to sink to

> more vertical position at rest.. He spends most of his time building a

[Tynk]

On Oct 21, 2:30 pm, "yng...@aol.com" <yng...@aol.com> wrote:

>
> Thanks. How long does it normally take before one sees some regrowth?
> He's been in the hospital tank with various medications for nine days
> now. I do keep looking at the edges of the damaged fins but it looks
> the same to me. I have started taking photos, as you advised, but so
> far I don't see any difference.

Well....
Simply put, as soon as he stops biting his own tail. Within a matter
of a couple days you'll see jagged edges smoothing out and then
obvious new growth.
Bettas heal up so fast, and don't usually need anything added to help
them heal fast. Nature gave them that ability because of their
"fighting" for territory.
When you have a case of damage vs illness, usually when you fix the
cause of damage that's all you need to do.
He's a gorgeous boy, and his picture didn't look bad at all to me. A
little damage, but no real biggy. = )
Like I said before, he needs the mental stimulation that he lacks now.
Before you know it he'll be fine.
You did the mirror, but it sounded like he got quickly bored flaring
at himself. Very common.
On the other fin, many prefer a mirror to flare at vs. an actual flare
buddy. I've had males prefer certain males to flare with too.
As cool as it to have a tiny "thinking" fish, it's also a real pain in
the butt trying to figure some things out when you can't speak to
them.

>
> Previously he was in a tank with cherry shrimp and some unwanted
> ramshorn snails. He would have tussles with the shrimp--they didn't
> seem to be afraid of him and would come and grab a tidbit right from
> under his nose, and then he'd snap at them and they'd skitter off.
> You'd think that would be mental stimulation but maybe it was just
> frustrating.

Sounds to me like he doesn't find them worthy of his time. lol = )~
Like he finds them to be a pest, and even though they are giving his
mental stimulation, it's not what he wants.
The females aren't nearly as finicky about things like that.
Can you think of any interactions he had with certain fish when he was
in the 29g on a regular basis?
Maybe even something he was doing in that tank....like a favorite
corner to flare at his reflection, or a favorite plant to hide in. It
really could be anything, even the tank it's self.
One thing is for sure though, he wasn't a tail biter before he got
moved.
I'm anxious to see how he behaves if you move him back to it.

[Frank Bayne]

From: Tynk TY...@aol.com
                ..............snip............

As cool as it to have a tiny "thinking" fish, it's also a real pain in
the butt trying to figure some things out when you can't speak to
them.

          * You mean to tell us you don't talk to your fish!  I don't even

consider them a "pet", but still talk to them. I even cuss some of

them out every now and then! 

 

Sounds to me like he doesn't find them worthy of his time.  lol  = )~
Like he finds them to be a pest, and even though they are giving his
mental stimulation, it's not what he wants.
The females aren't nearly as finicky about things like that.

 

             *Kind-a like us humans - aaa, shouldn't have said that, forget it -

don't want to open that can of worms, we would be getting into those

blonde jokes all weekend - opps, shouldn't have said that either.......

 

 

Can you think of any interactions he had with certain fish when he was
in the 29g on a regular basis?
Maybe even something he was doing in that tank....like a favorite
corner to flare at his reflection, or a favorite plant to hide in. It
really could be anything, even the tank it's self.
One thing is for sure though, he wasn't a tail biter before he got
moved.
I'm anxious to see how he behaves if you move him back to it.

          *Same line of thought here. Once had one jump out of his quart

jar and into a 55 gal. hi-fin lyre-tail swordtail/platy grow-out tank. Darn

thing swam around with the other fish just like he was one of them, so

I left him in there. He was solid blue (back then, breeders bred to

achieve solid colors), but for some reason wasn't happy unless he was

around, and could swim with, red fish. He ended up spending his life in

the different swordtail/platy grow-out tanks in my basement, so maybe I

guess he was a so called 'fishy pet'............. Frank

[yng...@aol.com]

On Oct 23, 11:54 am, Tynk <TY...@aol.com> wrote:

> On Oct 21, 2:30 pm, "yng...@aol.com" <yng...@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Thanks. How long does it normally take before one sees some regrowth?
> > He's been in the hospital tank with various medications for nine days
> > now. I do keep looking at the edges of the damaged fins but it looks
> > the same to me. I have started taking photos, as you advised, but so
> > far I don't see any difference.
>
> Well....
> Simply put, as soon as he stops biting his own tail. Within a matter
> of a couple days you'll see jagged edges smoothing out and then
> obvious new growth.

Thanks. I could see obvious regrowth this morning, finally.

Well, since I was at home today to keep an eye on things, I decided to
move him back in the 29 gallon tank to see how things went. We didn't
have as many fish in the tank at the time I moved him to the five
gallon, and I have three platys I am little concerned about--they have
been nipping at a gold mystery snail and annoying him. When he was in
that tank before, he didn't really pay much attention to the other
fish, but he did have a corner staked out, like you suggest, and spent
a lot of time flaring at his reflection. I never saw him flare when he
was in the five gallon, and couldn't even entice him to, so maybe that
was it.

So far so good. The tank didn't have as many plants when he was in it
before, so there are lots more hiding places now and things to
explore. He and the platys had a long stare-down, and since then he
has been ignoring all the other fish, and his back in his corner
flaring at his reflection. Even though there is a stringy piece of his
tail trailing him, none of the fish have tried to nip.

I have six glowlight tetras and previously he pretty much ignored
them, so I don't expect a problem there. The otos and two little BN
plecos don't bother anyone, and there are three hatchet fish that he
has ignored so far.

I've been watching closely most of the day, and I didn't see any sign
of tail biting. As Frank suggested, so far he is too busy exploring
and flaring at his own reflection to bite his tail. That might change
so I'm going to keep a close watch this weekend. There are some things
in the tank that might be a little rough on his fins, in particular
some pieces of Mopani driftwood, so I need to watch that too. However,
I have some tiger lotus and those big leaves are perfect as a betta
hammock, so he tends to rest on those.

He was in the five gallon tank for something like a month or so before
the tail biting, and he was only in the 29 gallon I think about the
same, about a month, before I moved him. So he didn't start tail
biting right after being moved, but just recently. Maybe it took him
that long to get bored with the small tank, but he was building bubble
nests so I thought he was happy enough. He never built them in the
larger tank because the water surface isn't that calm.

This is how he looked before the tail biting, so you can see that to
me, it looks like a like of damage.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp267/yngver1/clancyflare.jpg

Anyway, thanks to you and Frank for all the help. I hope he can stay
in the larger tank because that will mean one less tank to maintain.
But if I see any problems or his tail starts to deteriorate again,
back he goes to the 6 gallon and I'll have to figure out something
else. It's funny that you only seem to have to deal with this kind of
thing with bettas.
-yngver

[Tynk]

*Top posted*

Good to hear he's back in the 29 and settled in right away.
Since you said he didn't start biting his tail until after weeks being
in the 6, I'm guessing it took him that long to figure out his new
digs were permanent.
He probably tried another way to tell ya, but felt a more dramatic way
was better. Like a kid ripping their hair out to get their mom's
attention.
The females don't seem to bother with temper tantrums.
Fin variation doesn't seem to matter either. I've seen my share of
veil tail "Diva-boys", LOL.

> me, it looks like a like of damage.http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp267/yngver1/clancyflare.jpg