Hey,
It occurs to me that there's wax, and there's wax.
When I extract honey, I let the cappings drain into the tank for a
day or so.
Then I spread a couple of pounds on an inner cover of a strong hive,
and place a
shim or box on the inner cover, and the top cover on top of it.
The bees clean all the honey off the wax. If there's any honey left
on the wax after 24 hours,
just mix the stuff around and put it in your wax melter the next
day.
Caution: once I had small-hive-beetle larva get a start under a
rather heavy pile of wax.
Best to at least stir daily.
Giving the honey back to the bees that way means no sweet wax-rinse
water, alas.
(some beeks use a press to squeeze "all" the honey out of the wax.
I've never tried that)
By the end of this month, solar wax melters should live up to
expectation again, as days get longer
and the sun higher in the sky.
A solar wax melter can be cobbled together using a large picnic
cooler paired up with a clear
glass or plastic cover.
Caution: In summer the inside of the cooler can reach temperatures
way above 212ºF,
so DO keep a pan of water inside the cooler to hold the temperature
down. Check it often.
The plastic on the inside of the cooler will deteriorate due to
overheating above the boiling point.
The lining will crack and won't hold water any more. You've been
warned.
On the positive side, very often you can spot an abandoned or
fell-off-the-truck cooler
by the roadside for Free. You don't have to sacrifice the favorite
one you paid $$$ for.
I've found a couple over the past 10 years, and passed by many more.
Then there's the other wax:
We should cycle out our brood comb every three to five
years. It'll be really black by then.
(DON'T CYCLE OUT THE NICE WHITE WAX. It's good for a lifetime)
That Brood comb has only a small amount of wax in it compared to
cappings which are mostly wax.
Especially when I can't count on the sun, I use a steamer-setup to
extract the wax from brood comb.
Pots and sieves dedicated to wax melting.
The sieve fits snugly in the pot.
The bottom of the sieve is an inch or two above the bottom of the
pot.
A cup or two of water in the pot.
Insert sieve, and fill with broken chunks of comb.
Cover with a pretty tight lid.
"Simmer" on the very lowest heat... just enough to get a very slow
boil going in the center of the pot.
The black-wax heats and becomes saturated with water. The displaced
wax slowly dribbles out.
After a few hours turn off the heat, and let the wax solidify on top
of the water.
Remove the disk of wax,
and repeat.
Sometimes the wax disk is really thin. You can color classify the
wax too.
When you have a pound or two, put a couple of cups of water in the
pot, and a bunch of the disks of wax in the pot. Simmer on a low
heat for a while. Water vapor bubbling through the wax will mix it
up, so that some of the coloration of the wax will dissolve into the
water. Keep the level about half the depth of the pot. No sieve.
Turn off the heat, and let the wax solidify.
The bottom of the puck will have black gunk on it that you can
scrape off, and cycle back into the melter.
The yellow wax you're left with will be pretty clean, and have a
nice aroma. (clasify by color)
Industrial operations actually use an acid-water solution and steam
heating to "bleach" the wax.
It'll get a lot whiter, and probably loose a lot of the nice aroma.
Personally I put the black "slumgum" residue in the land-fill trash,
just in case it harbors pathogens
that might survive the cooking and persist in the garden. Perhaps
overly conservative that way.
That's my 2¢