AbsolutelyNRS provides free services to youth in crisis aged 12 to 21. We hear from young people who are at home and simply need somewhere to turn for advice, and also we connect with youth who have runaway or were kicked out of their home and are now couch surfing, living in their car or staying in shelters or on the street. If you are still unsure about how we might be able to help, contact us and we can refer you to another service, if needed.
The National Communications System for Runaway and Homeless Youth is operated by the National Runaway Safeline, supported by Grant Number 90CY2676 from the Administration on Children, Youth and Families, Family and Youth Services Bureau, U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.
Had thousands of hours on Mk2S, then a few hundred on Mk2.5, no issues. I just upgraded to Mk2.5S yesterday and while everything seems to work, I'm getting runaway error every time the part cooling fan turns on. The hotend temp. drops by 15'C immediately.
The radial fan is not stock (died long time ago), so maybe it's too powerful with the new exhaust? As I've said, it was fine for hundreds and hundreds of hours before, so I can't think of anything else.
I am having the same problem using the stock print fan. I was able to solve the problem by lowering the fan speed below 80%. The temperature still drops by 10 degrees or so when the fan comes on, but it is able to recover after a minute or two.
I'm having the same issue since upgrading to mk2.5s this week. Very annoying to require lowering the fan speeds to get it to work right. If a silicon sock is needed, it should have been included in the upgrade kit. Does anyone know of a solution besides using a sock??
PID calibration is good to make after you put the sock on. There are several threads on the forum because of this, it is also related to MK3S. So far the sock is only thing that works. I am just suprised, that there are not much often questions on this. From my point of view this has to limit everybody. So why just only a couple of people is complaining about?. All the new users of the printers, and that has to be tousands of them, should have this issue. Most of them newbies. I would expect much more complains and proper actions from Prusa. Like having the sock as a default accessories and coming with the printer.
The printer is realy aborting the print because of this. Sure not everytime. The big drop down causing temp runaway error is happening only on the bottom layers (the air is coming not just directly from the fan but also get bounced from the heated bed) and therefor it influents especialy PLA prints, where fan starts with second layer (at default Slic3r profiles)
I'm having the same problem. Old gcode that turns the fan on after the first few layers causes thermal runaway as soon as the fan kicks on. Resliced with no cooling fan and the problem goes away. This looks like a pretty big oversight, honestly. I don't quite have the chops to redesign the fan duct to aim lower but I assume someone out there is looking at it.
This is really a horrible design issue that every MK25.S owner will run into right after they just spend all day wrenching on their printer. So of course they're going to think they screwed something up.
I spent 5 hours futzing around with things until I finally hit on the right google search where I found the solution. That is really crappy. They've had two years to fix this design, why isn't it fixed yet?
This happens to me when the heater cartridge is starting to fail. Replacing the heater has solved it for me 2 times, with many hours of prints before the heater starts acting up. The first symptom was always Thermal Runaway upon parts cooling fan activation. A sock appears to work for awhile but it worsens over time.
The silicone sock around the print head worked fine for me, so I just went with that. I have a spool of ASA so I downloaded a fixed nozzle from the Prusa model web site, and it printed fine. I never installed it though because the silicone sock worked so well.
However, I am in the middle of a full Bear upgrade and I did change out the heater for a 40W one (stock is 30W) from
printedsolid.com. I also changed out the hot end for a nickel plated copper one, changed out the nozzle for nickel plated copy, and changed out the heat break to a titanium one. So, we'll see how all these upgrades turn out in the end.
The Runaway and Homeless Youth Training, Technical Assistance, and Capacity Building Center (RHYTTAC) is the training and technical assistance provider for all federally-funded runaway and homeless youth (RHY) grantees. RHYTTAC assists these organizations in developing and implementing effective approaches to serving young people who have run away and/or are impacted by homelessness, accessing new resources, and establishing linkages with other programs with similar interests and concerns. RHYTTAC:
The Family and Youth Services Bureau (FYSB), Runaway and Homeless Youth (RHY) Program, and the Runaway and Homeless Youth Training, Technical Assistance, and Capacity Building Center (RHYTTAC) are now accepting proposals for presentations at the 2024 RHY National Grantee Training. To submit a proposal for consideration, please complete the Call for Presenters application form no later than Friday, August 2, 2024.
The Family and Youth Services Bureau (FYSB), Division of Runaway and Homeless Youth (RHY), and RHYTTAC are excited to share with grantees an updated RHY Program Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) foundational resource. This document aims to serve as a valuable FAQs resource for recipients of RHY Program grants. The updated document answers many FAQs and provides definitions, fact sheets, links to further resources, RHY Program legislation, and more.
There are a lot of details to consider in implementing Runaway and Homeless Youth (RHY) grants. RHYTTAC's RHY Grantee Foundational Resources webpage contains links to resources that RHY grantees and staff (new and experienced) can reference. You may use the Foundational Resources webpage as a starting place and return as needed (bookmark the webpage linked below for easy access).
I've been wanting to use my TVs (Sony X900H) remote to control my Roku ultra over HDMI CEC due to the issue that seems to be plaguing the Roku remotes here lately (I'm also seeing with mine), but it seems that Roku boxes do not have full support for HDMI CEC, it only offers to switch the TVs input when you touch a button on the Roku remote.
The reason why I want to use my TV remote over HDMI CEC is that I can no longer trust the remote for my Roku Ultra for volume control as its often cranking up or down the volume levels by itself depending on if I was turning up or down the volume at the time it happens even when I'm no longer pressing the volume button. So I have to use multiple remotes, one to control the Roku, and my TV remote to control the volume as I don't dare touch the volume button on the Roku remote.
The weird thing with the sticking volume is that the volume buttons themselves aren't physically sticking, and the contacts inside the remote for the volume button isn't sticking. This seems to be purely a software based issue/Bug in the remotes firmware itself.
I can use my TVs remote to control all of my other streaming boxes (Amazon fire stick, Apple TV 4K, even my Blu-ray player) but not the Roku box as it only offers you to switch the TVs input when you touch a button on the Roku remote and doesn't offer you a way to actually control the Roku with your TVs remote over HDMI CEC (which is absurd in this day and age).
I want to see full HDMI CEC support on Roku boxes so we can choose to use the remote than came with our TV, especially for those of us seeing these issues with the Roku remotes, I'm tired of the Roku remotes issues, tired of having to worry about bumping the volume button on the Roku remote and have the volume runaway in the middle of the night waking everyone up in the house because the TV is now at 100% volume. I don't want to have to keep buying Roku remotes only to have the same issue with the new remote.
[Note: If you have a Roku TV with "Fast TV Start" enabled, turning it off/on just puts it in/out of a standby mode and does not give you a full restart.]
Depending on your Roku model you'll find the "System restart" option under "Settings > System > Power" or if you don't have a "Power" option, under "Settings > System".
If a restart doesn't do it, or if you don't have sufficient control with the remote to navigate the Roku menus, you can also restart by pulling the power plug to the Roku for a few seconds then plugging it back in and waiting for it to restart.
Rebooting the Roku is just a bandaid, as it only "fixes" it for a while before the issue returns, I also bought a second Roku remote because I thought the first remote was faulty, both remotes exhibit the same issue. Rebooting the Roku is just a temp "fix", I've rebooted my Roku multiple times, I've even removed power for a while, I've changed the batteries in the remote as well as leaving the batteries out of the remote for a while none of it actually fixes the issue. I know how to troubleshoot issues, I know how to operate my devices.
I also stated what issue I'm having with the remote (the Roku remote gets stuck turning up or down the volume after turning up or down the volume), I don't have any issues controlling the IU like with some people with their remotes.
Im on my second remote on my ultra, with the same volume runaway issue. I finally gave up on number 2 in fear of doing DC damage to my sound bar. I replaced it with a rca universal. No voice or headphone jack but at least it functions reliably.
The roku ultra remote uses wifi. The phillips and rca universal with streaming function uses RF. I have both functioning with my ultra. They both have roku support but the phillips seems to have a few more functions. But both work well.
Sorry the universals use IR you are correct my bad. But both seem to controll my ultra without issue. Although i prefer the phillips 4 device universal over the rca big button 3 device. Both are easy to program and so far so good.
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