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Narcisa Flierl
Step 1: Connect your computer to your access point. This can be done by connecting it through a switch or connecting it directly to your computer. If you connected the access point to a router with DHCP enabled, you will need to look at the DHCP table in your router for the IP address, then skip to step 3.
7. Then you need to create a profile in order to group the access points for the type of hardware. There is already a default profile created, named "default". To change the profile settings go to Administration> Advanced configuration> AP profile
8. You can use the profile "default" and / or create a new profile. To add a new profile, click the "Add" button in the "Summary" tab. To edit a profile, click on the name of the profile.
9. Once inside the profile window will open in the "Global" tab. From this tab you can specify the type of hardware on your access point, if you are using different models in one profile can select the "Hardware type" as "ANY"
10. On the "Radio" tab you can adjust parameters for the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz band. We recommend leaving the default settings and only modify settings for "Maximum Clients" which defaults to 200 and it is advisable to change to a value of 30.
11. In the VAP tab you can configure the VAP SSID for 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz bands. By de-fault it is set to 16 dlink SSIDs for each band. To change these settings click the Edit button next to each SSID. For example if you need to adjust the parameters of the SSID in the 2.4Ghz band selected first select this band and then proceed to edit the SSID
12. To apply the settings to the access point return to the "Summary" tab. In the list of profiles, you can see the "Profile Status" as "Associated - Modified". This means that changes were made in the configuration but have not been implement-ed in the access points.
13. When the wireless switch finish loading settings in the AP section "Profile Status" re-main as "Associated" and you can see the access points emit SSIDs that have been as-sociated to it.
> [...] What comes up in my browser is the "You are not connected to
> your Router's WiFi network" page.
Welcome to what may be the worst error message in the world. For an
explanation, try:
-p/1365830
Briefly, the idea is that "[www.]routerlogin.net" should point to
your own router, but that's true only if you use your own router for DNS
name resolution. Irregardful, you should be able to get to the thing
using its IP address, if you can determine (or guess) that. Perhaps:
"192.168.1.1". You can often get it from your computer's IP
configuration as the default gateway or router address (or some similar
description).
> Tried logging in via my IP address
What, exactly, is "my IP address"? You want to specify the router's
IP address to your web browser. And what, exactly, happened when you
tried whatever you tried? As usual, showing actual actions with their
actual results (error messages, ...) can be more helpful than vague
descriptions or interpretations.
Thank you for your prompt response and your advice to be more specific in future is duly noted.
The issue has now been resolved as I took your advice and used a different subnet thank you.
My original D-link is a gateway (combination of modem router) and I purchased the Nighthawk to boost the wifi signal. Now I have access to Netgear Genie page I have been able to configure the Nighthawk to Access Point mode, this has improved the wifi signal.
In your opinion is Access Point mode the optimal configuration for my setup? I understand that I will not have access to certain features such as Dynamic QoS, is this significant for my setup?
One way, you get two wireless access points, hence better coverage.
The other way you get to use all the fancy router features of the R7000.
I haven't studied the D-Link, so I don't know if the fancy router
features of the R7000 are really superior to those of the D-Link. I
also don't know if the wireless capability of the D-Link is good enough
that losing it (by making it modem-only) would be much of a loss.
You might need to run a couple of experiments to get enough evidence
to make a rational decision.
> [...] used a different subnet [...]
> [...] I have been able to configure the Nighthawk to Access Point
> mode, this has improved the wifi signal.
Just to be clear, switching the R7000 to access-point mode should put
it (with its clients) on the same subnet as the D-Link LAN, but at some
address other than 192.168.1.1. My usual suggestion is to give the
access point some memorable address, like, say, ".200" or ".250", and
then, if necessary, shrink the DHCP address pool on the (D-Link) router,
so that it doesn't include the address of the access point. You don't
want the router to hand out the access point address to some other
client after the next power interruption.
I just set up a new D-Link router, as my Netgear router was getting a little temperamental. The settings are nothing like my Netgear settings, which actually had a program to get into them. With the D-Link it's through the address bar. The only options it gives me in the wireless settings is "Disable Wireless Security (Not recommended)" and "AUTO-WPA/WPA2 (Recommended)". I imagine I would choose the 2nd, right?
Also, does D-Link have a program, like Netgear does, so that you can get into more advanced settings, or is the address bar method and the few things that are able to be changed through such the only way?
That area is accessed by entering the routers LAN IP into a browser. For a Hughes connection a LAN IP of 192.168.1.1 is suggested so as to avoid any addressing conflicts with the Hughes Modem which is hard wired for 192.168.0.1
I do have to say that I use WEP because of the age of a couple of my older devices BUT ... I am so far off the beaten path that no one can come within range and I use that minimal encryption levels simply to exclude a connection by someone's cell phone that comes to visit.
I know that this thread is old, but I had to set up a replacement router of the same model and I couldn't remember the exact settings, though I remembered I had asked before. The information I needed was further back in the thread (thanks, BirdDog), but I was getting ready to write a thank you for the additional, detailed information Greg gave. I had forgotten.
At IU Bloomington, you may operate a properly configured, FCC-approved wireless access point (WAP) as an exception to Extending the University Data Network (IT-19) and Wireless Networking (IT-20) from the University Information Policy Office (UIPO) only if your residence is listed at Wireless Networking: Temporary Exception 2 (ITE20-02). Once the campus wireless network is available in your residence, this exception will no longer apply and you will need to remove your WAP from the network.
To properly configure your WAP, follow these guidelines according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer of your WAP. Make sure to save your settings after every configuration change. For help, contact the Support Center.
The situation is effectively the same: I have two appliances (the AP and the router) both transmitting usable wifi networks for full coverage in my house and multiple devices connecting to the internet through each. The only thing missing is the ability to roam between them. When I do so, the DNS is clearly failing and I am unable to get a usable IP address to continue using the internet.
So, except the floor-3 (which W8961 there), I have very good roaming now. Trying to solve the issue of W8961 now. Otherwise I have some signal from floor-3 anyway and I have ethernet connection already.
AP1 & AP2 are both setup up with the same SSID, same security, tried same channel and different channels. Devices can connect to either and they appear as one in the access point list and all works fine. When you connect to one and then roam to the other, you lose network connectivity but still shows as connected to network.
How do you know you are roaming between the units?
When you lose connectivity can you still connect to local devices? Ping the router or one of the APs.
Are the APs using different IPs outside the DHCP range?
Do the APs have a DHCP server and is it off.
1. If your router is set to auto select the best channel, your access point might lose the connection when the channels are switched. To fix this, set the router to stay on the same channel all the time.
I scanned available wi-fi channels that were in use nearby. All channels were in use so I chose the one with lowest signal strength, i.e. furthest away. (I used Wifi Analyzer running on an Android tablet but any wi-fi signal strength/channel tool will serve.)
The family changed ISP to fibre broadband so ended up with a new ISP-provided router. I got a refund for the TP-Link kit and bought more expensive BT500 EOPs. After a bit of a fuss updating the firmware on them they have performed flawlessly every since.
In this earlier How To, I showed you how to convert a wireless router into an access point (AP). This how to will show you how to properly configure the second AP so that it works in harmony with your main wireless router.
But most wireless clients are very "sticky" and tend to stay associated to the first AP they encounter, even when APs with stronger signals are available. So I recommend setting a different SSID for the AP, so that you can manually control connection.
One large network practice that you do want to follow is to set the AP to a different channel than the main wireless router. In the U.S. you should use only the non-overlapping channels 1, 6 and 11. So if your main wireless router is set to channel 6, set the AP to either 1 or 11.
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