Upgrade Complete

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Lauro Pericles

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Aug 3, 2024, 4:44:22 PM8/3/24

to tertihosof

Here's a game for people who LOVE upgrade systems. Nearly EVERYTHING in the game can be upgraded, including Menu Buttons, Game Graphics, and loads more! You even have to buy your own mute button! Absurd!
How fast can you upgrade EVERYTHING?

Apparently there are quite a few sound/speech clips that were made but never used. Some can be found in the German version of the game (the sounds that is; all speech is of course translated). As for the speech, I remember the Radio 2 Remix has the Allied Thief's line, "Time for a five-finger discount!", which is also not present in the game files.

TBH though, now I distinctly remember the "Upgrade complete" line from Radio 2 Remix (it's repeated several times IIRC), but I never even paid the slightest attention to the fact that it is not actually used in the game, and in fact does not exist in the game files.

Uhh, I don't remember all of them, but there are two files that sound like they could have been intended for cloaking and decloaking of a Stealth Tank type unit (the Phase Transport in Aftermath uses the Iron Curtain sound for cloaking, and so do units in vanilla RA that pick up a stealth crate - given that you enable stealth crates in RULES.INI that is).

There are also unused sounds in the English versions of both C&C and RA, as you of course know. Actually I think that the RA minigunner infantry shot sound is better than the one used in the actual game.

What patch are you working on? (I haven't checked these forums in a while, so I must have missed some things.) You can easily get the original German SOUNDS.MIX (SOUND.MIX?) from the German version of MiniRA (except I can't remember where I got that and if it's still available there...).

Here are the sounds that I believe to be related to cloaking. Their file names have not been identified as you might have guessed I'm not sure if there are other unused sounds in the German RA, these are the only ones that do not have default file name entries in XCC Mixer.

Anyhow I added code to overwrite rules.ini and play an alternative sound for the Rifle Infantry, also to add a grenade throwing sound to Grenadier. Just gotta make them optional once I start working on the patch again.

BTW, IIRC the demo version of RA has a version of h2obomb.aud that is somehow different from the full version, but maybe only in size. My memory on this is quite vague, but you could just compare the aud files in the demo and the full version and check what the exact differences are.

As part of the upgrade, as is expected, the Active role for our Grid Master failed over to the secondary node where it still remains. I was under the impression that Active would fail back to the primary node upon completion, but that may be a separate issue.

Is it normal for NIOS to perform cleanup or other admin tasks that take more than 15 hours following what appears to be 100% completion of an upgrade? Are there any logs I can refer to in the CLI or GUI to gain insight into what might be going on and whether I should keep waiting or take other action?

It sounds like the upgrade is completed, and you're still within the partial revert window. For the 24 hours after a scheduled migration is completed, it is still possible to roll back an individual appliance if needed. The grid limits the sorts of changes that can be performed during this window.

After 24 hours that message will go away, and after that only a complete rollback would be possible. (note that a complete rollback also means rolling back to the data & configuration from the previous version)

So I finally finished my upgrades and its a place where I think it gives us most of the functions we wish it had from the factory. (I also added a piggyback tuner to it that gives me an additional 100hp/120 ft-lbs, but that's a whole other story)

The HDMI switch isn't as fast as I'd like as it sometimes takes longer then it should to select an active HDMI port. Also, as you can see in some of the photos the installation isn't totally hidden but I did what I could, besides the two spots I show on the photos the wires are completely hidden. Other thing this doesn't solve is the baby in the back seat scenario, but I have kids in the back that can answer simple questions to walk me onto the target. Lastly, the thing takes up my entire front center console so that's a consideration too.

One of the main things I wanted going into this was to make it removable where I didn't have to buy all new parts if I ever wanted to part ways with the Navi. The NAVIKS and the HDMI 3-port switch that extracts audio out of HDMI and feeds it over RCA are the two devices that allow the whole thing to work without audio lag. I also still have a USB drive connected to the screens and they're hooked up via a Bluetooth FM transmitter that allows us to take calls and hear the audio (with lag) for short commutes or with kids that dont care about the lag.

I didn't go with this option for three main reasons, the system would cost over $1k and likely over $2k installed; to replace a system I already paid $2k for. Second, I didn't want to make irreversible change to the system, as I tend to switch vehicles every few years. Lastly, I have the ATT wifi option but travel enough to/through areas with spotty coverage which would result in dropped connection/unable to stream.

On top of that stuff, my wife and I are a huge fan of picking up random movies at redboxs (you can buy blu-rays for $3-4) for the kids to watch while on the road. Not to mention, I'm not a fan of android systems as they, like many other electronics suffer from planned obsolesces syndrome.

Upgrade Complete 2 is a top-down shooter game. It is the sequel to the critically-acclaimed game UPGRADE COMPLETE!. The concept is the same as that of the original, with you earning money by playing a shooter and upgrading everything.

The game is a side-scroll shooter where you have to upgrade everything, including the menus. You control a spaceship and you fight off waves of other spaceships. Should you fail a wave, you spend the gold you earn on upgrades and try again.

With this upgrade, your OMNI HR experience will be enhanced through a new, friendly user interface. Instead of breadcrumb navigation, the view will default to the tile navigation pictured below, and you can customize the screen to your preferences.

Homepages are located on the top middle portion of the page. Unless you create a custom homepage, the view will default to Employee Self Service. Here you can perform actions such as reporting time, viewing paychecks, and certifying effort reports. Supervisors will frequently use the Manager Self Service homepage. This page will allow supervisors to manage tasks relating to their staff.

I have fitted the upgrade provided by a VFR enthusiast (Kev's Shed - see YouTube) here in the UK. I have hard wired the three yellow wires to the new regulator, and also attached the red and black wires to the battery.

Has anyone experienced similar? I'm really irritated because I am selling the bike (was!), and only did the upgrade to improve it's saleability. It now doesn't run properly. The cutting out is chronic - it's now unrideable because it cuts out within second, re-starts, and cuts out again.

Sorry, I don't know what might be causing the engine to cut out, but it shouldn't be related to the charging system, which is essentially a stand-alone system. If the charging system doesn't function, the battery just doesn't get charged (or it gets overcharged...); the engine running or not usually depends on there being enough battery voltage to make a spark, fuel and air.

From battery to Main Fuse, to the 18p Blue connector, up to your Engine Stop Relay, with ignition to on, through the relay on to the Black/White wire and back through the 18p Blue connector, then on to where it feeds the ECM.

Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To
determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a
refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage...

Power may be perfectly fine when measured at battery. It takes a long circuitous path to reach ECM. Have to traverse muliple fuses, switches and relays. Let's see final result 1st, then if there's problem, trace cricuit to find problem area.

I think I've found the issue. Just prior to undertaking the R/R upgrade, I replaced the 'Oxford Heated Grips' - they had failed. I bought a new set and simply plugged the new grips into the existing sockets from the prior set - as in I didn't have to do any splicing into the loom etc - I just used what had been installed.

So, the wiring for the grips has historically been zip tied to the loom at the RHS of the headstock. I clearly clipped all the old zip ties off, took off the old grips, put the new grips on and then re-zip tied.

So, I'm guessing (and that's an educated guess!), that I have a broken wire in the loom where it has been zip tied for years and it will be a power wire to the ECM or similar - which is simply turning the power off.

Also the critical wire from your Kill Switch is a Black wire this is a +12v wire to energize your Engine Stop Relay. Check this wire for continuity from the switch to the relay, a break in this wire will kill your engine and bring on the Fi light.

3. gently work your way down switch-gear harness from handlebar end and gently squeeze & wiggle wires. You may find broken area that way if bike cuts out. Or it may be corroded or ejected terminals at connectors