Serpentine Installation

[Kanisha Dezarn]

Iown a Toyota Corolla 2003 CE. The engine hosts only one serpentine belt for the crankshaft pulley, the alternator pulley, the water pump pulley, the automatic tensioner pulley and the power steering pulley. I recently installed a new Gates serpentine belt because the old belt started squealing. I thought that after installing the new serpentine belt my troubles would be over, but my engine still squeals. The only time it squeals is when I start the engine; I can accelerate, turn on/off the A/C and it still squeals. It doesn't squeal forever though. The sound lasts for about 15 minutes. I can't hear the sound when I'm cruising on the highway and after I have been using the car for a while the sound seems to have disappeared.

Did you check all the pulleys before installing the new belt, to check that one of them isn't close to seizing? (water pump, especially). If everything turns freely, I'd suspect that the belt wasn't tensioned correctly; you don't want it too tight or too loose.

Specially selected plant cuttings were tied in bouquets and looped into the cotton, which Agbo-Ola and Rezaire chose for their connection to each of the collaborators' different practices linked to aromatherapy for mental health and womb health.

"Through the process of plants losing their internal water from drying, they release an orchestra of aromas that can be experienced and reflected upon in contemplation," Agbo-Olda and Rezaire told Dezeen.

The architect explained that the structure's appearance was informed by a series of existing artworks created by his practice Olaniyi Studio, which take cues from the "symbolic textile traditions" of the Yoruba and Cherokee peoples.

At the end of the exhibition, the installation will be dismantled and its knitted tensiles will be relocated to Amakaba, an environmental centre for "wisdom and healing" founded by Rezaire in the Amazonian rainforest of French Guiana. As well as a farmer, Rezaire also works as a doula.

Back to Earth is on show at The Serpentine North Gallery in London from 22 June to 18 September 2022. See Dezeen Events Guide for an up-to-date list of architecture and design events taking place around the world.

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Our customer discovered during their installation of the Electromaax 160 AMP alternator project on their Yanmar engine, that their greatest challenge to completing this task was not the actual task, but establishing how and what new wires I would need to complete the installation.

My first step was to check if I had all items delivered from Electromaax and the ancillary connections I disconnected from the original alternator which was very simple. A few wires, the nut and bolt on adjuster arm and two mounting bolts, this took me about ten minutes to complete.

About 10 minutes later I had the new Electromaax alternator attached to the engine; a simple one person job on my 4JH3E. As you can see in my photo, the alternator rested on the galley floor next to engine compartment so freeing both my hands to attach the alternator with the 2 bolts and spacer from old alternator. I then attached the adjustment arm to top of alternator.

The new water pump pulley was easily attached. When dry fitting the serpentine pulley over the crank pulley I discovered that the tolerance between the inside of the new pulley on top of the existing one was very minute. The new one became jammed on very quickly as I did not slide it on squarely. About 5 to 6 minutes later I had it removed.

The 1/0 red cable from the alternator positive terminal exited the engine space through a newly drilled hole in the floor support into space for under floor storage in front of the fridge. From there I had removed the flooring in front of sink in galley where cable went through and under floor in front of companion way stairs then turned into space where start battery is situated and across this space and under to come up behind battery switch panel at Nav. station.

The Electromaax alternator and Emaax regulator wires then connected as instructed. I installed the Emaax regulator on the wall of the engine compartment. Routing cables and connections took me about one hour to install.

I also added an Echo Charger to my system to work off the new alternator. Since my installation in June of 2011, I now believe all Electromaax alternators have been upgraded to a plug and play; this means there is no wiring required whatsoever.

I was very happy to have had assistance from the Electromaax personnel, and Ted Grahame of Grahame Marine, to advise me so I could complete this task. This was important for me as I do not usually tackle anything electrical.

Hi everyone, I am going to attempt changing the serpentine belt on my 2008 Edge SEL AWD but wanted to see if anyone has any pointers. I looked up under the engine area and it looks awful tight. Does anyone have a diagram of where the tensioner is or the easiest way to get to it to release the belt tension? Also, there is a smaller belt on the backside of the main pulley. Should I replace that as well and how dificult is that one? I have pretty good mechanic skills and tools but would like to know what I'm getting into ahead of time. Thanks for a reply!

The front is easy, the back [power steering] is a stretchy belt. The manual says you need to access the belts by "raising the car and removing the passenger side splash shield". I can't say that I've done it, but it seems that the front one [AC and alternator] is accessible from the top. I concur with the service manual about the stretchy belt needing to be accessed from below, it seems belt removal and installation procedure requires close access to the affected parts. If you're there for one you may as well replace them both. I would cut the old belts off to save some time. Be sure to buy a stretchy belt install tool with your new stretchy belt!

I for one would not cut the belts and then try to figure out how they go on. Kind of like on another forum I belong to people drain a differential fluid before finding out that the fill plug is "frozen" in place and won't come out. I would want to make sure I know how to remove and install the new belts before cutting them off.

SERPENTINE AND POWER STEERING BELT REPLACEMENT 2007 FORD EDGE: I just completed a replacement of both the serpentine (tensioner) and stretch power steering pump (no tensioner) belts this weekend on my 2007 Edge. The serpentine belt replacement is easy, the power steering belt was challenging. First disconnect neg. battery terminal and jack up front passenger side and remove wheel. Remove the screws and plastic fasteners on the front side of the wheel whell so you can pull it back and stick it behind the rotor out of the way. You might be able to do the sepentine belt without doing this step, but I only say that because I saw how everything was situated by seeing it through the wheel well. To move the tensioner, look for a rectangular metal piece about 1 'x 1/4" which is the top of the tensioner. It is between a cable bundle and coolant hose in the center of the photo. The service manual says to put a 3/8" breaker bar in the 3/8" hole in the side of the tensioner. I couldn't find a slim enough bar due to clearance with the wheelwell so I ended up putting a large adjustable wrench on the tensioner top, (which is square in profile) sticking up, and used a piece of pipe for leverage. The belt comes off easily. The power steering pump pulley is tougher to access since it is toward the back of the car and up a little higher. The power steering belt uses a pulley behind the serpentine pulley, so you have to remove the serp. to change the power steering (stretch) belt. I cut the power steering belt to remove it, but you can attach plastic strap and pry it off by rotating the crankshaft as you pull on the strap. The replacement I got online was not Ford and was smaller that the Ford belt so I would recommend getting the belt from a ford dealer. The part even cross checked good on the company's website. Although its a little pricey, you know you're getting the right one and it included tiewraps and instructions for the install. (For the serpentine belt I used an aftermarket with no problems). Since there is no tensioner for this belt, you must crank the pulley to get the belt on slowly, kind of like a bike gear chain derailer. To install the power steering stretch belt, first put the belt over the crankshaft back (closest to engine) pulley. Then put the belt in the bottom of the power steering pulley. When it is lined up properly in the pulley, insert a tie wrap through the pulley hole in the 6 o'clock position, then down under the pulley and back into the wrap tab. Tighten with pliers. This should securely attach the belt to the botom of the pulley. My belt came with 2 wraps so I used both right next to each other. With your left hand turn the power steering pulley CW and keep your finger on the belt to insure that it stays on the pulley as you rotate the crankshaft pulley. Put a 18mm socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley and rotate it CW as you make sure the belt is fed properly into the other pulley with your left hand. Once the tie wrap gets to 10 or 11 o'clock, the belt will pop fully into the pulley. Don't rotate the crank anymore after this happens or you could damage the belt. I used a box cutter to carefully cut the tie wraps off. I then pulled the tensioner forward and held it there with a tie wrap and put the sepentine belt on and released the tensioner. I included a photo of the the install insructions. I like doing work on my cars, and the job cost $50 total, but this did not go as smoothly as I would have liked. Hopes this helps someone avoid some of the aggrevation I experienced.

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