Midi Files Optimizer 7 Dongle Crack 35
Edelira Longinotti
Hello! I'm struggling with getting wireless MIDI to my iPads and I'm wondering what you guys have found to be the best, most reliable solution especially for live performance, where a dropout can be really disruptive.
When my band plays live, we have four iPads on stage, one for each player. The drummer's iPad shows his drum charts, the singer's shows her lyrics, etc. We use some tracks, which are on my MacBook Pro in Ableton Live. We have program changes in Ableton Live that go to the iPads to change the lyrics/chart to the right song, and even to scroll at the right part of the song (scroll to the chorus during the chorus part of the song, etc.).
I've been routing the program changes out of the MacBook and into the mioXL, and then from there outputting via the DIN ports to the iPads (each of which has a little MIDI-to-USB converter hooked up to it).
I tried setting up a Session on my MacBook Pro and sending the MIDI information over WiFi, but for whatever reason, this route caused some interference with Ableton Live and the connection kept dropping live anyways.
So then I tried plugging in WIDI Adapters into the mioXL's outputs, and sending the MIDI information via Bluetooth. That actually works pretty well, although I still get at least a couple of drop-outs per show, which is disruptive to the musicians.
(For instance, a song starts and the singer's iPad doesn't change to the new song, and she has to manually rifle through the various songs to find her chart. And she has to re-establish a connection to the WIDI Adapter.)
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The iPads are all dedicated to running lyrics via OnSong, but they're varying ages some as old as iPad 3, some as new as iPad Pro 1. There's no real logic or pattern that I can see as to which one drops Bluetooth when.
In any event, I think I'll try AnotherScott's suggestion of using a CME WIDI device on an iPad (in addition to the transmitters attached to the MioXL). Maybe that will perform better than the iPad's own internal bluetooth. Worth a shot, so thanks!
It"s a bit more involved with batteries for the transmitter and a usb cable from the receiver and requiring the Apple Camera Connection Kit (lightning connector only at this time, I believe), but by far it is the fastest and most reliable wireless MIDI I"ve come across.
Seems like I'm way behind on this stuff. Is WIDI a separate thing from the standard Bluetooth Midi? A subset or superset? Proprietary to CME? I've only used bluetooth midi to fool around at home to get midi from my controller keyboard to my iPad via my laptop. That works but the latency is a little higher than I like. I'm assuming that using one of these WIDI dongles attached to my A-Pro's midi port will connect directly to my iPad or iPhone and give me better latency performance, correct?
As I mentioned in another thread, I do use bluetooth midi to have two pads on my Roland controller turn pages in forScore - but that doesn't demand super-low latency like sending notes to a VI in the iPad.
In theory, CME's WIDI devices are supposed to optimize the Bluetooth protocol for low-latency MIDI. There are two use cases: 1. connecting MIDI instruments directly to each other and 2. connecting MIDI instruments to a computer. CME's website says that for 1. connecting MIDI instruments directly to each other, they measure latency under 10ms with an average of 4-5ms and a low of 3ms. But this may not be true when connecting to a computer because the OS settings are set for reliability vs. performance. Personally, I've found Apple (MacOS and iOS) to have the fastest out-of-the-box settings, Windows comes in 2nd but may need to be tweaked and optimized, with Linux performance being dismal (unless you enjoy editing the code and re-compiling the Bluetooth stack).
Many of us ordered the new CME WIDI Uhost and WIDI Bud Pro (designed for USB) - which is supposed to ship in September, hopefully we'll get some benchmarks soon. I'm curious to see if the WIDI devices for USB are slower or faster than the WIDI devices for MIDI DIN.
I would like to ask you for another features like intel speed step to disable once I dont see such option in bios and other your suggestions to be able to keep less DPC latency as possible.
Thank you in advance
Some Microsoft properties and how to optimize for your music production
Everytime be careful and think, what you are doing, if you are not sure, just google for any forums etc.
First of ALL, make the Image Backup of the system, Restore point etc. for case, you will spot any issue and you would like to return
back.
Recommendations: do not remove system drivers. Do not reset TPM or play with BSOD, if you are not sure, what you are doing.
Do not use "whole" optimization pack or utils like "you run this magic exe and everything will be fine" - why: every hardware is specific and we are using different software and all those means different techniques. Yes, there are common things in the system, but be sure, what you are doing, I cannot recommend this technique.
Another recommendation - if you dont spot issue and your latency is good
(well below 1ms (1000s) or better), you dont need to do a lot more, its fine.
Just read the tips and try if you will see anything useful or something you maybe dont know about.
Down below tips and resource link informations, dedicated for such users, who is not so lucky and those tips can find useful in order to resolve their issue(s) and find the solution
* If you are using Intel *
If you are using Intel, I can recommend Intel Driver & Support Assistant
once its good to keep up to date and I did not find any issue to use it once it does not take much cpu and its useful.
* Update drivers *
After bios update, check your device manager and drivers.
Especially Audio and graphic card drivers.
Also good to check new updates for network adapter, bluetooth, usb - the most problematic ones in common.
Do not hesitate to choose one you have the best experience with, even if it is not the last one.
Also, if you are not using bluetooth, disable (not remove, just disable) the driver.
Never disable system drivers, just device, most common is bluetooth, WiFi. Also disabling network adapter during music production is often used practice or to change a little settings on Network adapter to do not use Power management to save energy (more down below in detail)
* Boost or not boost, rapid or not.. *
I dont recommend to use accelerators such as SSD disk boosters, "Rapid" modes etc. I dont have experiences, that this is to improve your performance in DAW, once some of them are exactly in the opposite and could cause higher priority on disks sometime not so good way driven.
On SSD, I recommend to use TRIM.
I could also recommend to use Page File, once its good in combo to get better performance. You can try and see.
I also dont recommend to use fast startup, once I did not find anything helpful on that option especially related to better performance.
*Disable Windows Telemetry*
gpedit.msc>Konfigurace počtače>Šablony pro sprvu>Součsti systmu Windows>Shromažďovn dat a buily verze Preview> Povolit telemetrii
Double click a zvolit Zakzat a OK
Navigate through the left folder tree up to Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > Windows Components >
Data Collection and Preview Builds.
Locate the Allow Telemetry option and double-click it to open the configuration window. Select Disabled, then click OK.
* Audio priority and graphic card settings *
You can try enable Audio Priority in Cubase (I think i've tried that before though and it made no difference), and the second was changing my graphics card setting via its control panel tray icon from Graphics Profile - balanced, to Optimize Performance.
Some people experienced to setup Maximum Performance - I cannot confirm on my setup.
Some people also recommends the usual audio performance tweaks in place like disabled speed stepping
- Power management schema: minimum and maximum processor state to 100%
/ Schma napjen: Minimln stav procesoru a Maximln stav procesoru dt na 100%
If you spot overheating issues, try a little less value and enter to maximum 99% or 98%. Restart your computer and take a look, if it helps.
* Windows Troubleshooting *
Windows key > Setting > Troubleshooting > choose the one by need on the bottom last choice something like "More troubleshooting"
Windows key > Nastaven > Odstranit potže > Dalš poradci při potžch
To determine if you have the Trim function enabled for a hard drive, open a command prompt with administrative rights, type in the following command: "fsutil behavior query DisableDeleteNotify," and press enter. If "DisableDeleteNotify" has a 1 next to it, it is disabled. If there is a 0 next to it, it is enabled. If for some reason, you need to disable Trim, you can type in "fsutil behavior set DisableDeleteNotify 1" To enable Trim, type in "fsutil behavior set DisableDeleteNotify 0."
* USB port used *
- Check your USB ports and specification from manufacturer, its not like USB 3.0 is better then USB 2.0
by the way, USB is the most probably the reason of any issues (freezing, crackling) nowadays
(you have enough of cpu, ram, good motherboard)
- If you have USB issues, try another port for your device. Change more times, if better for connection
USB Hub or not? Thats question, I dont recommend more than 7 port USB, its a lot and its hardly managable for Win
USB Hub - powered could be also good choice. Depends on manufacturer recommendations and limitations.
For Cubase is better USB 2.0 (direct connection or USB powered hub)
USB devices in general - if you dont use it, disconnect it.
USB cables in general - check USB cables, if good condition, if not, replace it.