Paper Case For Raspberry Pi B
Bok Mull
I decided the best solution is to go find a printable case using paper or cardboard using my computer printer. I wouldlove to 3D print one, however that is not an option for me at this time. Here are some solutions I was able to locate.
An affective case that is available in 3 designs, pink, white and textured. Every major port is easily accessiblewithout having to open the case. The CSI (camera serial interface), DSI (display serial interface) or GPIO is indirectlyaccessible by opening the side flap and would require it being left open while in use, unless you made your ownalternations to the case.
This particular one is more of a brace or pad for the Raspberry Pi and a power bank than a case. The case is intended tobe used with a bracket. The entire board is accessible including all ports and connections. Protecting the board is notthe focus on this case. It is unfortunate that the template is only available in DXF file format.
This is an amazingly engineered case created in cardboard by an engineer. This template and design is a lot more involvedand not just a simple print, cut and build. However, there is step-by-step videos available to guide you along the build process and diagram of dimensions (PDF). As an advantage though I feel due tothe approach of how this case is to be built, one could easily modify the design to work with newer models of aRaspberry Pi.
The design of this case is more of box than a case that fully protects the board. The focus is to keep it simple withoutthe use of any adhesive. The case does not have a cover to protect the top of the device.
Though a very old design now it is still nice to see a simple 4 square ventilation holes on the top of the case foraesthetic reason. I do also find that this case has an advantage since it provides the Silhouette Cameo files. Though Ihave no idea if these files would still work with the more modern Silhouette Cameo products available today.
Very similar case to the Punnet Mk1 with some added instructions written in Turkish and a Raspberry Pi logo on top ofthe case. The source linked here is an archive by Arda Kılıçdağı that provides steps in English along with some visualphotos of the process.
An altered case of the Punnet Mk1 for the Raspberry Pi for Dummies book. This case comes in three different editions,branded, lightly branded and old branded. Indirect access to CSI, DSI and GPIO connections is available by opening thetop flap.
These unique case designs are intended to be used with a Raspberry Pi Zero W along with either Speaker Phat orAdafruit 12864 OLED. The detailed instructions are beautifully done, so muchso that they even provide a scale check to ensure the case is printed properly.
The case allows for GPIO headers to be fitted and provides a flap for indirect access to the GPIO. Two editions of thecase are available, plain box case and a BBC Micro style. It is recommended to fasten the board to the case.
Sketching out a few ideas obviously helps refine what you want to design. If like me, you sketching is so-so, you might want to try Sketch-A-Day...
I considered 6 different grill styles for the case - which not only gave ventilation to printed circuit board (PCB) - but also made a feature of the lights (LEDS) on the board.
I then considered a rounded case or a square-edged case. I selected the square one for simplicity at this stage, but as you can see in other tips, it could be easily rounded too.
I wanted to check how the sketches of the grill looked - in rough - before I committed to modelling them fully. I cut out a window for the front case and inserted the sticks a number of orientations.
Keep experimenting until you are happy.
This is rough guide to the template needed to create all 6 sides of the case. A more accurate one is available here. I'd recommend using (digital) calilpers to measure things if possible - an example is given here.
Did you know that Super-Glue is very strong in tension, but relatively weak in shearing? (which is why it is better to 'roll' your fingers apart, rather than 'pulling' them apart)...
Similarly using insulation tape when constructing large assemblies (that are perhaps in tension) is ideal, as the tape can be pulled off easily once everything is glued in place.
Here it is used as a surface to take small amounts off of with a cocktail stick to apply in small quantities to glue the light pipes in. The advantage is that the superglue is not absorbent and prevents it drying quickly (compared to if it were on a scrap of paper).
Hopefully when you connect everything up to your case, it should light up - and you see the various buttons shine through the front of the case!
Thanks for taking a look at this Instructable. I hope you enjoyed it and let me know how this compares to the video here.
Thanks,
Jude.
There are a number of pictures there as well as mechanical drawings in PDF form (look under "Specifications"). These have the exact dimensions and should reassure you WRT case design. The most finicky cases are probably the layered ones, which have supports that crisscross both surfaces of the board. But a standard box case should be fine.
This Pimoroni blog has an interesting photo of the differences. Pimoroni do some of the finnicky, intricate layered cases (that are very sexy) and hardware hats. Hopefully they won't mind me sticking that pic in here:
The mixture itself was cooked but for some reason it stuck to the paper cases, this is also odd because I've done this recipe before and it worked fine. I've tried to think of any factors that may have changed when cooking for a second time and all I can think of are:
In case you have the same screen as I do, you will want to run the epd_7in5_V2_test.py script located in waveshare/e-Paper/RaspberryPi_JetsonNano/python/examples/! If all goes according to plan and you've soldered everything correctly, your screen will wake up!
Epaper.js can only be run on the raspberry. Indeed, it depends on native libraries (the GPIO drivers) that do not exist on your computer :). Not a problem, just something to be aware of (For example, don't set a CI on your project on Github).
Conversely, the latest version of Node that I could run on my raspberry is version 10.x, which means that I could not run the frontend code on it. Again, not a problem; just something to be aware of.
I created my whole dashboard by using $ npm start in the epaper-ui folder, running $npm build every time I was happy with the result. That pushed the built version in the static folder of my project and sent it over to Github. By pulling the repository on my raspberry, I can make sure to always have the latest version of the dashboard.
One last thing I want to mention before moving on is the way I refresh my dashboard :). The epaper.js examples has an example with data that updates. However, that data updates from the backend to the frontend. In my application, all the data is pulled from the internet via the frontend, which means that I cannot use the same mechanism.
However, it is not directly possible, because epaper.js supports stdin inputs (for buttons or keyboards). I looked around and decided to comment out the lines of code that handle stdin :). To do this, you can go on your clone of the project on the raspberry and in node_modules/epaperjs/index.js. You want to comment out the following line in the init function:
Overall, I'm extremely happy about the result of this side project and the choices I've made. Picking epaper.js, open-wc and tailwind has helped tremendously to iterate fast and be productive. Having a simple website that I can work with and deploy on Netlify at any time has been a tremendous help.
Because I don't need the interactions capabilities of epaper.js, I probably could get rid of the websockets altogether in the project and pull the website directly from the web instead of running it locally. That would be very interesting, because then I would automatically get the latest version of the dashboard every time I push a new version to Netlify. To be continued....
If you try this you might want to use a folding bone to score the paper. A folding bone not only helps you get a straight line but also compresses the paper fibres in order to strengthen the fold and it gives a crisper edge.
Placing your card over the metal ridge and scoring with the nick in the bone gives you a U section in the card which when folded back on itself gives the necessary overlap to clear its own thickness when you fold, so that you get crisp flat folds with much less bulging. Of course the design of the case should take into account these thicknesses.
In either case (pun fully intended :) ), using Mylar or other stiff transparent sheet plastic provides the advantage of being able to see the board, and the Pi logo, connector labels, etc., can be printed (in reverse) on the inside surface so that the printing is protected from being rubbed off.
Nice work, I got the Pi rev B today, and used 200g/cm2 (peach)coloured paper
and used sublimation type paper/woodglue made by UHU in Germany
if one builds wooden furniture DYI kits as sold by for example IKEA, they come with a small palstic bag (one may call it sactchet in UK) of glue that is perfectly suited to glueing wood or paper, you may get it from IKEA for a coin, if not free from their service counter.
Hi Fred,
I too am in the US (Tucson Az) and printed the pdf on 8.511 cheapo laser paper then glued it on lexan. I did have to make some modifications on port holes for RCA , speaker jack etc. This was easily done by holding the pi and positioning where the case panel would be , then use a sharpie marker on the glued paper template to mark the modified position. Then attack it with a dremel tool. Once it was done the paper and the protective cover-film of the lexan gets peeled off & discarded .
At the Surrey & Hampshire Hackspace we did a modified version of the Punnet for the Brighton Mini Maker Faire.
Major changes are:
Exposing the GPIO port
Exposed the camera port
Added GPIO pin identification to the case so no need to hunt for the pin outs.