Re: Dragon Mini
Lorean Hoefert
Dragon miniatures are on sale now at Dark Elf Dice! Dragons are such an iconic part of fantasy role playing games that they deserve their very own collection. Are these mythic beasts friend or foe? In your RPG campaign you decide. No matter what though, a dragon miniature will definitely become a major piece in your collection.
The dragon miniatures we sell are gorgeous models sculpted with lots of detail. Cast by Reaper Miniatures, one of the world's best manufacturers, dragon minis are ready to assemble and be painted. Bring your tabletop RPGs to life and let your imagination soar to new heights!
Dark Elf Dice believes life is an amazing adventure and we want to help you tell your own unique story. Rolling since 2005, Dark Elf Dice is a family owned and operated business that offers a huge selection of DnD dice, amazing prices, and world class customer service. We're gamers and collectors too, and we're passionate about the dice and gaming products we sell. Happy adventuring!
I did a PID calibration hoping that would make it happier and it definitely helped. But still getting a thermistor mismatch error. Not sure if they can be calibrated or how I can be assured the thermistor is working.
FWIW: I have two Minis with regular Dragon hotends. One has zero issues, the other one throws thermal anomaly warnings but ONLY on the initial filament load after turning it on. Once I've been through it, it'll print for days without issues, I can unload and reload no problem, etc, until I turn it off. I've replaced the thermistor twice, redid PiD, checked wires and board connectors. So at this point I'm quite confident that it's not a hardware issue. If it were, I'd expect to see thermal anomaly warnings pop up at other points, not just the very initial load.
My remedy to anvoid the initial warning: after turning the printer on, I manually heat the nozzle to 180 from the LCD menu before attempting a load. If I print PETG or ASA, I'll wait till it reaches 180 then manually raise it to 220 or so. This way I can get to a reasonable temperature without triggering a thermal analogy and can then execute the filament load procedure without issues.
Interesting. In all honesty, I'm not a huge fan of this thermal model. I applaud their desire to add more safety features. But there are just too many reports of perfectly fine working printers not passing the grade when there are how many reports of Prusa printers going up in flames? Exactly.
I just ordered a standard Prusa hotend. Going to stick it on and probably sell the Mini. What is the point of an open platform that isn't that open? I just placed an order for a Bambu since I just want my printer to work well.
Lessons learned, for some reason, the Dragon is clogging up, maybe because it is the UHF version. Because the head is longer, the blower fan is too high, could just sub in a 75x75x15 fan to blow further down or reprint that mount to duct lower. The PID calibration helps,
In all fairness, it seems a bit farfetched to expect that a hardware vendor that allows its printers to be recognized heavily (from Revo to Dragon to Mosquito hotends, direct extruders, etc) could foresee every possible modification and have their firmware ready for every situation.
Well if they are both effectively closed off, then I will just go with the Bambu. In the end, the mini was just "okay" - it was never flat, so I had to do the silicone bed levelling mod. The extruder was mediocre, so I ended up putting a Bondtech on there, z-axis needed a bit of bracing, so I printed out and attached one.... I added a SuperPINDA, And the heat creep on the hotend meant I was looking for alternatives but the Dragon, a pretty popular choice, has been a nightmare.
I have the same problem and wondering if anyone found a workaround.
If I start preheating the printer, then stop and start a print everything is fine, if it fails and i start the print again when warm everything is fine but it would be nice to not have to do this.
I was looking at replacing the Dragon hotend HF ceramic that i have currently installed as I get a nozzle heater error everytime I start a print. The quality of the prints are great so I was looking at getting the standard dragon hotend. Of the 2 that you have, do they use the ceramic or the aluminium heat block or is this a reason for the difference between you minis?
On May 25th, 1977, George Lucas' Star Wars premiered in theaters. The film was an instant success. Fans saw the movie multiple times, sometimes on the same day. Star Wars went on to become a global phenomenon and still remains the third highest-grossing film of all time (inflation-adjusted).This specimen contains fragments of the fiberglass from Star Wars Episode IV's "Krayt Dragon" prop, the long serpentine skeleton C-3PO encounters soon after separating from R2-D2 on Tatooine.
To protect this fragile material, we've encased fragments of the original Krayt Dragon prop inside clear acrylic and affixed it to a sturdy black acrylic disc. Really, this is as Jawa-proof as it gets.
The completed specimen is easy to handle and provides a sharp background contrast to the light color of the original fiberglass. We've also included our classic specimen card and acrylic specimen jar to provide continuity with other Mini Museum specimens. However, if you want to try something new, we've also included an even larger certificate of authenticity card that doubles as a display for the specimen. These upgrades provide numerous options to protect and showcase this treasure and show it off to friends who will get it. (like us)
This specimen contains fragments of the film prop skeleton used in Star Wars: A New Hope. The "Krayt Dragon," a long serpentine skeleton seen in the desert of Tatooine, is encounted by C-3PO soon after separating from R2-D2 at the beginning of the film.
To protect this fragile material, we've encased the Krayt Dragon in a clear acrylic. The specimen is affixed to a black acrylic disc, which provides visual contrast for the light-colored fiberglass and also makes it easy to handle. This handsome bead comes in an acrylic jar that is encased within a glass-topped riker display box. The box measures 4 1/2" x 3 1/2". Our classic photo card is also included, as well as a 3x4" display card with a labeled map, information about the filming, and our seal of authenticity.
After the original filming in Tunisia, the production team left the Krayt Dragon as well as several sets to rot in the desert. Over the decades, the area has become something of an attraction with locals excavating material and selling it to film location tourists. However, while some sets have remained, the dragon was eventually lost to the shifting dunes.
This specimen includes several fragments of the lost Krayt Dragon skeleton prop, which was recovered from the desert before its disappearance. The pattern of these fragments varies in shape and size from specimen to specimen. The pictures of single specimens will give you a good idea of the range. Colors may vary as well from nearly pure white to a smooth gray and some elements of brown from exposure to sand and sun.
The skeleton is a fiberglass model, which was originally used as a Diplodocus skeleton in the 1975 film One of Our Dinosaurs is Missing. Its inclusion was a matter of happenstance; when some forgotten equipment needed to be flown out to the shooting location, the skeleton was tossed in with the cargo simply because they had space for it. The creature would not even be given a canonical name until some years later.
After the original filming in Tunisia, the production team abandoned the Krayt Dragon as well as several sets in the desert. The entire area is considered a significant tourist attraction, bringing in thousands of visitors per year. Locals of the area conduct tours of the ruins and salvage the abandoned sets for sale.
Science has also benefited from the remains. NASA uses the position of the Star Wars sets to track the progress of large, crescent-shaped sand dunes called "barchans" which sweep through the area at 15 meters per year.
Arial photography gives scientists a clear reference point by which to measure the movements of these dunes. Thanks to the leftover sets, there's something that can be used to help tell the scale of the image, unlike other parts of the desert that only have sand.
Side Note: The largest barchans in the solar system are on Mars. Known as megabarchans, these massive dunes reach over 500 meters high and 6-7 kilometers in length. Perhaps someday film crews will leave behind props there as well!
The Krayt Dragon recently returned to the Star Wars universe when a living specimen featured on an episode of The Mandalorian. Though the show returned to Tatooine, production took place on a stage in California instead of North Africa.
The Mandalorian shoots with a massive LED screen as its backdrop, running a game engine in order to build digital environments. With this technology, they can shoot a scene set on an icy mountain back to back with a desert ravine. Though this technique is vastly different from the on-location shooting Lucas and his crew did in the 70s, it retains the spirit of efficiency and scale that caused them to choose Tunisia in the first place.
The Black Dragon 75 Ohm Mini Coax Digital Cable was originally designed for the HifiMan Player HM-602 Slim and the JH Audio JH-3A portable Amp/Dac. We are so pleased with the results that Drew also recommends it for normal SPDIF applications.
Dragon Cables are handcrafted from quality materials in Moon Audio's headquarters in Cary, North Carolina. All of our cables are created with ultra pure, single-crystal silver and copper strands and engineered to provide the cleanest, most musical presentation. Our wire is void of impurities and crystalline boundaries, leaving nothing between you and your music.
The Black Dragon uses a miniature 75 ohm cable geometry based on RG179 specifications. It uses a silver-plated copper 7 strand conductor, and a 100% coverage silver-plated copper shield. Both are 99.99% silver over 99.999% oxygen free slow drawn copper.
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