Re: Windows 10 Differenza Tra Home E Pro
Lovie Berlinghof
Andersen offers a broad array of window and door products to fit nearly any project need from new construction to replacement. Andersen products are sold at The Home Depot stores nationwide and through a network of independent dealers.
Renewal by Andersen is the full-service window replacement division of Andersen, offering Signature Service from start-to-finish. A representative will come to your home, learn about your project needs, measure your windows or patio doors and then order and install your new, custom-made windows.
Hassos is a full OS that you will install on a compatible hardware. Hassio is a container installation that you run on the OS of your choice.
Your question is only about this difference or you are asking because you want to do the choice between both ?
The main difference is that with hassos the hardware you will use to run it will be only dedicated to hassos. With hassio you will be able to run anything else more on the OS you choose (windows/Mac/Linux distribution).
Ok I did not explained it 100% correct.
Hassio is a part of hassos that you can run on any OS of your choice. But hassos (embedding hassio) will require 100% of your piece of hardware dedicated to home assistant.
Hassio is a dockerised version of home assistant, plus a dockerised supervisor. It can be installed on any linux, I am not sure about OSX and windows. It also has the facility to to run hassio addons, which are separate applications like a dhcp server, a mosquitto server - pretty well anything you can put in docker can be made into an addon.
Thanks. Thats starting to make sense.
Id much rather hassos installed on my machine but it just doesnt work. would not boot at all.
Also the plex plugin cannot mount my media on a separate drive from Hass.
Is it possible to install packages from Github in Hassio? Or is it only possible to use the available add-ons? If so, I will have to go for a new installation as I want to include packages that does not exist as add-ons. And if I have to go that way, is it possible to copy the configuration from Hassio and import it to HA on the new installation?
The difference between .2U and .3U is basically the difference between twin and triple glazing. In my thinking payback is less important than comfort and convenience. A scientist will tell you that cold doesn't radiate but when you stand near a window it can feel like it. The convenience aspect has to do with condensation. I it annoys me to find the bottom edge and corners on my windows wet or frozen. This is an inconvenience with vinyl and fiberglass but can cause real damage to wood windows. The problem is greatly exacerbated if windows are set near the outside wall in thick walled buildings. Triple glazing goes a long way in preventing condensation.
I like the calculator below. Note that most of the difference in comfort can be more than compensated for with a warmer indoor temperature. Or well placed radiators. It also calculates condensation (shouldn't be an issue at comfortable humidities), but you might want to use the second link.
Lydia,
My mother's family comes from Nebraska, where several of her cousins are still farming (or were until they retired). Your husband could probably sit near a window that is open 4 inches when it is 0 degrees out and still be comfortable. That's how he grew up.
Even if he stands close to a tall window on a cold day, he probably won't notice the slight difference in draft. You might bump the temperature up 1F to compensate, costing perhaps an additional $30/year.
My spouse says the attic where all the kids slept growing up on the farm in NE was unseated. And yes snow did appear on the window interior. He was not wild about unheated barns for early milking either.
Lydia, for the most part I agree with everything above, except the comfort aspect--if you have small windows and/or don't sit near the windows, you may not notice the difference, but if you have larger expanses of glazing, or if you want to sit near the windows--as you might when dining or bathing--you will absolutely notice the difference, due to radiant cooling, which is the window pulling heat directly from your skin. The interior surface of a triple-glazed window is always closer to room temperature than the interior of double-glazed windows.
70 air at 50% RH will condense on surfaces a little over 50, which is common on double glazed windows in cold weather, especially where the glass meets the frame. You will often see a bit of mold growth there in the form of small black spots. It's nothing to worry about for most people, but for those sensitive to mold it can be an issue.
If the triple glazing is a lot more expensive it might not be worth it, but if prices are close it's worth considering. In my experience, high-quality, triple-glazed UPVC windows are very close in price to Marvin Integrity double glazed windows. The calculator Jon linked to is a useful one.
I have a wall of windows with a glass door at the end. The windows are .27 and the door is a .30
We like to keep the humidly at 45%, when it gets below 18 the door is covered in condensation and the windows will have a few drops in the corners. When you walk past the windows and the door you do can tell the difference while moving. If it is below 40 and you touch the glass the difference is noticeable.
U-value indicates the rate of heat flow due to conduction, convection, and radiation through a window as a result of a temperature difference between the inside and outside. The higher the U-factor the more heat is transferred (lost) through the window in winter.
U-factors usually range from a high of 1.3 (for a typical aluminum frame single glazed window) to a low of around 0.2 (for a multi-paned, high-performance window with low-emissivity coatings and insulated frames).
I don't want to hijack this thread but it got me thinking about the windows I had selected for my cabin project (elev. 4140' Zone 6b). The price difference between the Marvin Integrity windows I had planned to use and the comparable Kolbe Forgent windows is considerable. The Kolbe windows are over 1/3 less expensive. Am I missing something or are the Kolbe windows kind of a no-brainer?
David, I'm finding myself reconsidering my window choice also. Martin's math was an eye-opener. Do I want to pay $4000 more to save $20/year? ROI is in 200 years (for all practical purposes, never). I'd be better off putting those dollars elsewhere, perhaps more insulation below the basement floor or go for the UltimateAir vs the Renewaire. Yes there are other factors (comfort being the main one mentioned), but ROI is always a big one for me.
Michael,
A GBA blogger named David Posluszny came to a similar conclusion. (Posluszny built the controversial Massachusetts house with a wrong-side vapor barrier. Here is the link: An Affordable Zero-Energy House in Massachusetts.)
Posluszny wrote, "The windows are wood-framed vinyl-clad Andersens. The two south-facing windows are fixed, the four north windows are casements, and the two gable windows are awning. I decided not to install sliders or double-hungs because of the air leakage associated with them.
"The windows have a U-factor of 0.29. I would have preferred windows with a lower U-factor, but I bought the windows inexpensively as odd-lots. Prior to purchasing them I ran some heat load calculations. My home is heated with electricity produced by a solar array. I had to purchase all the solar panels to make the electricity for the heat. After my heat-loss calculations, I found that the extra solar panels were less expensive than windows with lower U-factors.
Update from the original poster,
In the end, we were hesitant to use the Kolbe Forgent even though the price was sweet as they are a new product. We tend to like tried and try in our windows and marriage. Then it came down to Miguard Ultra and Alpen 525. The u value was better on the Alpen for the same price, though we will be missing the support from the local wonderful vendor, Mariposa windows and doors. Tough choice, but we went with the Alpen.
The main difference between bay and bow windows is the number of windows in each. Bay windows consist of three windows arranged in an angular orientation, protruding outward from the home structure. Bow windows have four or five windows and form a curved shape.
Bow windows are typically more expensive than bay windows due to the extra cost of the additional panels of glass. Bow windows can also require a more intensive installation process, which can mean higher costs for labor as well.
Andersen replacement windows are known for their strength and reliability. The materials used in each of their products are strong and resilient to the stresses of the outdoors. With a traditional wood-clad look, Andersen offers two series for wood window replacement:
Andersen differs from Pella and Marvin (read our best replacement window brand comparison) by offering a vinyl cladding on the exterior as opposed to an aluminum exterior. Andersen wood windows also have a 20-year glass warranty and a 10-year parts warranty.
The Andersen 400 Series is the most popular line for replacement window projects. Andersen is perhaps best known for their consumer-friendly customization options, making this an excellent choice for homeowners who want to play an active role in the creative process of their home remodel.
Andersen 400 window styles feature wood as the interior material with a strong vinyl exterior, built for both style and utility. The interior wood is available in pine and may be factory finished or stained.
One nice feature of the 400 Series Casements is that the entire sash is wrapped in vinyl. If the window is left open in the rain, the water hits the vinyl sash, not a wood sash, keeping your purchase looking newer longer.
The 200 series Andersen replacement windows are constructed of a pine interior which comes in either Pine or White. The exterior is vinyl and is available in either White or Sandtone. This series is of similar quality as the 400 series but lacks the individualism of custom features and colors, which helps to reduce the price. Sizing options also make this line a bit less useful for specialty replacement window projects.
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