Hi Colin,
I have no practical experience of using a focal reducer. It will probably work, but may not produce a flat enough field for imaging (see below). However, most people with shorter focal length telescopes that yours usually find that they have the opposite problem, that of getting a sufficiently long focal length for decent planetary imaging. On my LX90, for example (200 mm aperture, 2000 mm focal length) I have to use a 2x Barlow and extension tube to get me up to 8000 mm focal length so as to get a good image scale. Smaller images just don't include all the detail that the scope is capable of yielding. It sounds as though your problem is not so much the image scale when actually taking the pictures as locating the object in the first place.
Though not a cheap solution, I use a guiding eyepiece (with crosswires) to locate the planet first visually, then I pop in the webcam. Usually the planet is then in the field of the webcam when using the Barlow, though if I am working at the full 8 m focal length it is a bit more problematic. I also have what's called a parfocalising ring around the eyepiece so that it focuses at the same point as the webcam. Sounds complicated, but it's nothing more than an adjustable ring round the eyepiece barrel. A bit of gaffer tape in the right place would work nearly as well, stopping the eyepiece from sliding so far into the barrel.
Rather than buy a guiding eyepiece, make sure that the planet really is dead centre in your 25 mm eyepiece, which you could adapt as above to the same focusing point as the webcam, then pop in the webcam. It should then be nearly in focus, which is important in cases where the image is so out of focus that you don't see anything. Alternatively, you might have to do it the other way round, putting the
tape around the webcam barrel so as to match the focus position of your
25 mm eyepiece.
I know that the latest Neximage will give long exposures for nebulae, for which you really would prefer a wider field of view. But many of the nebulae where wide fields are needed are so large that you really need a much larger chip anyway, such as a DSLR. I think you should concentrate on the smaller objects using the setup you have got, rather than trying to expand your field of view. I don't know how flat the field of view will be that is provided by the reducer you mention. Flat fields are essential for imaging, whereas for visual work you can accept a bit of out of focusness around the edges.
Smaller objects include planetary nebulae and galaxies. Have a go at the Eskimo Nebula in Gemini, for example, which requires all your focal length if not more. Then proceed to galaxies, such as M81. Plenty to do with what you have got.
Let us know how you get on!
Robin Scagell