1581 Replica

[Gaynelle Alnutt]

Howabout a DIY 1581 Replica? All you need is a replica 1581 board, internals, case, and power supply. All of these components are readily available. If you have a 3D printer, you can even make the case yourself.

Our third 1581 Replica board is by Pazuzu72. This is the Commodore 1581 drive replica board PCB. This board is a 1:1 copy of the original Commodore 1581, with the only enhancement being the possibility of mounting a double kernal (for example normal / JiffyDos) so a jumper can be mounted for selection. This replica board is perfectly compatible with the original 1581 case if you have one.

The next step is to get a power supply. If you need a new power supply for the 1581, I would consider Ray Carlsen. Ray is a legend when it comes to Commodore computer repairs and power supply replacements. Ray provides modern power supplies for all your Commodore equipment, and if something goes bad, you can work on it, unlike the original Commodore OEM.

When it comes to the case we also have a handful of options. Most of these cases are PIY projects (Print It Yourself), however, some of the places will print it for you in the color of your choice for an additional fee.

If you're like me, you're thinking that you'd like to own a Commodore 1581 Disk Drive, but the crazy high prices have kept you away from realizing your dream. Well, here is your chance to build your very own Commodore 1581 replica disk drive.

This is my 1581 Enhanced board. The PCB itself is based on the original board design, and as such, is compatible with the original case. Placement of the ports and switches are in the original locations. I wanted to make this board for the community in a way that anyone wanting a 1581 with a bit of skill (or friends with the skills required to assemble this) could have one of these drives for a fraction of the cost of an original drive.

The board itself supports standard Amiga modified floppy drives, and with the Toms adapter board ( -pc-drive-adapter ), all you need for a floppy drive is virtually ANY 1.44 IBM compatible floppy drive mech. The PCB supports single or dual drive ROMS, so you can for example have just the original DOS rom, or you can have JiffyDOS and the original rom (switchable from a jumper on the board).

I've also enhanced the board such that you no longer need to use an original Commodore 1541-II/1581 power supply. Once built, you can power this board with ANY power supply between 7.5 and 25VDC. Either powering methods have been maintained on the board, and are selectable with a single jumper setting. This means, if you want to power it with any power supply you have laying around within those parameters, you can. Or, you can power the drive with a factory power supply. Only one method can be active at any time, so no damage can occur. I implore you however to observe the polarity markings on the PCB when hooking power up to the Alternate power circuit. Always best to double check before applying power.

I'm also not restricting the use of this board. So you can purchase PCB's for yourself, or you can purchase a truck-load and sell them in your shop or on eBay. Do what you like with the boards. All I ask is if you're selling them, please link back to . I am not however giving the Gerbers away, because providing them through PCBWay ensures you're going to get a quality product, and the small percentage I get from purchases of this board from PCBWay helps fund my ongoing efforts to provide other cool projects to our community.

I've created a Github for this project where you'll find photos, descriptive documents, BOM, everything you need to get this project going for yourself. Pick a PCB color, place your order and get building. If you have any questions, reach out to me through my shop, or on social media. I'm not hard to find.

Given the extremely high prices the Commodore 1581 disk drives are commanding these days, wouldn't it be nice to be able to create your own 100 percent functional replica of the Commodore 1581 disk drive for a fraction of the price?

This is a brand new COREi64 exclusive product. We've come up with a replica case of the Commodore 1581 that will accept a PC drive. The current internal drive mount that comes with this case fits the Samsung 321B PC disk drive, however, other PC drives may also work provided they have the same mounting profile.

What makes this case unique among other replica cases is that we use brass heatsets and black oxide screws to hold the case together (just like the original). We however go one step further in that every mounting point in the case uses the same fastener technology. From the LED board mount location, to the PCB mount, drive mount and two case closure screws, everything uses heatsets and screws.

This case, as with all of the other plastic products on our site, is 3D printed. Due the size and print duration that it takes to create this case for you, please allow additional time subsequent to your ordering this item for it to be shipped to you. As with all the products on our site, every item is custom created just for you in the color you select.

This item is for the 3D printed case only. No PCB/electronics/drive or power supply is included. Given that the internal drive mount is not seen once the device is assembled, the drive mount will be printed in the same color as the base drive case color.

This replica has been meticulously designed to match the original as closely as possible even going so far as to implement the radius on the traces which makes this replica 100% compatible with the original 1581 case and drive assembly. To go one step further, a separate part library was designed in my CAD software so that the silk screen for each part matches that of the original board.

Note* Later revisions of the 1581 board created a permanent trace for J1 which should only be connected if using a WD1770. I made sure to include this jumper so that either a WD1770 or WD1772 can be used at U4.

This piece is used to mount the floppy drive and attach it to the case. When using some generic PC drives such as the NEC FD1231T, it is necessary to raise this by a few MM which also means that the back part of the mount where all the holes are needs to be cut off since the case screw pillar is flush with this piece and raising it would prevent the case halves from coming together completely.

Zustzlich fand ich eine Lsung ohne echtes Laufwerk (aber mit USB-Stick) auch praktisch. Die Gotek-Laufwerke lassen sich u.a. mit der FlashFloppy-Firmware von Keir Fraser auch als Amiga-Laufwerk betreiben. Dabei herausgekommen ist diese Aufstecklsung:

Nein, dieser 1581-Adapter wurde speziell an diese Kombination angepasst, damit die PC-Laufwerks-LED auch wieder ausgeht. Da das SEL-Signal der 1581 permanent auf GND liegt, wre es sonst immer an. Das ist beim Amiga nicht so.

Mal eine grundstzliche Frage: luft die 1581 grundstzlich nicht wenn das READY Signal fehlt? So wie ich es verstanden habe, ist es am AMIGA so, dass ohne READY so gut wie alles ganz normal luft, bis auf extrem wenige Flle. Hatten die ESCOM Amigas nicht ab Werk gar kein READY?

The roms are out there somewhere, if you find out where, please tell

us too. :-)The drive can be recreated by installing an A4000 disk drive or any

other Amiga-compatible high density mechanism into an 1581. It HAS to

be Amiga compatible half-speed or the drive can't keep up with it and

you'll have to switch two wires on the cable etc.After you have the mechanism you need to burn the rom image onto an

eprom and install that in place of the original 1581-rom.The best choice for the mechanism is the original from an A4000, it

fits right in and hooks right up, I guess all you need to do is bend

the activity-led a bit.If you can't find an A4000 mech, you can go for those normal-height

drives that are more commonly sold at Amiga-dealers, but you won't be

able to fit the front plate back on the 1581 unless you're ready for

some cutting work.

> Would it not be possible to rewrite portions of the existing 1581 code,

> and reburn an EPROM? Then plop a new HD mech in the 1581 casing. There

> are docs on CKB to install an HD mech in the 1581..

> Yup yup yup. :-) Same as I would rather have a CBM 900 than a boring old

> Linux box. After all, Coherent is neato-keen too, even though its practical

> value pales next to today's Un*x boxen.

>

> > What is the CBM-900? I've got pictures that somebody scanned and sent

> > me, but I never found out any more information to send to him! Is there

> > anything on the 'web about it?

>

... I checked your web page a minute ago and it said you don't have

enough disk space to post them. Hence, potential viewers shoudl email

you. Well, where are the pictures?Sorry, I couldn't check them out last nite.

If someone want to buy the Collector's Edition of Fallout 4 to get the Pip-Boy replica, I sure hope they are doing it to have a cool piece of plastic and not to wear it around. This thing looks uncomfortable!

But as far as Collector's Edition go, it's a cool one. I see it as someone who get a Master Chief helmet replica, just a nice thing to rest on the desk as opposite of a headwear to protect you from alien blasts.

A designated National Treasure connected to the tea master Sen-no-Rikyu, Tai-an is the oldest, still existing example of chashitsu (tea house or tea room) architecture in Japan, located today within the Myōki-an temple in Kyoto. A spatial manifestation of the concept of wabi, it is an indispensable part of the Japanese culture. The exhibition will include a full-scale replica of Tai-an, allowing visitors to experience this famously small tea room of two tatami mats and low nijiriguchi entrance/exit.

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