Bangalore Cartoonist Draws 'Good Old Days'
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By Geeta PandeyBBC News, Delhi
Cartoonist Paul Fernandes's collection of paintings is centered around life in Bangalore.
Indian cartoonist Paul Fernandes has drawn a series of water colour cartoons depicting life in the southern city of Bangalore in the 1960s and 70s.
The series includes Bangalore's landmarks as well as the artist's ancestral home. "Ten years ago, our old house was torn down to build a set of
apartments for me and my nine siblings. It was a huge house, with beautiful gardens and 40 fruit trees," Mr Fernandes says. "When it all came
tumbling down, it compelled me to look at the changing city. And I started drawing places that I remembered fondly while I was growing up."
The result is a collection of about 75 paintings and drawings - "completely nostalgia driven" - looking at the "good old days" in a happy, humorous way.
Here, Mr Fernandes explains the stories behind some of his works.
the Bangalore Club, one of the finest examples of British architecture in the city, is still looked after well. Established in 1868 by a group of British officers,
the club boasted some exclusive members, including former British prime minister Winston Churchill who still owes the club <http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/8418330.stm> 13 rupees (20 cents; 14 pence) in unpaid bills.SEE BELOW It is also the place where famous filmmaker David Lean filmed parts of his critically-acclaimed Passage to India.
"It is still looked after very well and it still has very exclusive members," Mr Fernandes says.
In the "good old days", people didn't have to go to barbers; they instead came to people's homes.
"He would ride in on a bicycle, carrying his tools in a cloth bag. A chair would be brought out and placed under a tree and the entire family -
men, boys and girls - would queue up to get their hair cut."
There was one disadvantage though, Mr Fernandes says. The barber knew only one style and he would cut everyone's hair in the same fashion.
"My sisters would show him fashionable hairstyles from international magazines and ask for a similar cut. They would, of course, never get one.
"And then in the 1970s, we all started to grow our hair, hippie-style," says Mr Fernandes. "The barber didn't like it one bit, he said it was bad for business."
The Coffee House on MG Road was "the centre of our universe", it was "very popular" and often frequented by journalists, Mr Fernandes says.
The place did - and still does - great coffee, it served dosa and omelette and was always packed at meal times.
"Sometimes, we would have journalists sitting on the next table and they would chat about headlines and it would be in the next day's papers. It was so thrilling."
Commercial Street was the centre of shopping in Bangalore - it's a place where one could buy anything, from clothes to jewellery to household stuff to
footwear. It also had toyshops and many tailors."My mother would drive me and all my nine siblings there once a year at Christmas to buy us clothes,"
says Mr Fernandes. "She would buy the same bale of cloth, take us to the tailor who would take our measurements, and all of us would get identical clothes."
The Cubbon Park police station is a "very beautiful" building. It was an old British house that was converted into a police station in 1910 and it is still "pretty
much the same". "In the 60s and 70s, Bangalore was a very laid back place and there was no real crime, occasionally maybe a cycle would be stolen,"
Mr Fernandes says. "I was in school then and my friends and I would cycle around the city and the policemen looked so silly in their flowerpot hats, so we
would tap them and run away. But once I got caught and was detained in the room you see on top here. I was let out only after my mother came to the
police station and apologised," he remembers.
This house in this illustration is the cartoonist's ancestral home and the girl was one of his sisters. "She was very pretty and young boys would come by to
greet her. A protective uncle would be hovering nearby, scowling, with an airgun, trying to scare away the boys," Mr Fernandes says.
Just below the British Council in Bangalore was the very popular Koshy's bar and restaurant. It is still hugely popular, so much so that even the state's chief
ministers come here for a coffee or a drink. During a visit to the city in the 1980s, Britain's Prince Charles dropped by for a cup of coffee.
"This very picturesque railway line crossing is barely half a kilometre from my present home," Mr Fernandes says.
In the 1960s and 70s, a daily train from Madras (now Chennai) to Bangalore used to pass through the area and the gates would shut for 10 minutes.
Whenever we were at the gate, we would wave at the passengers, and they would wave back at us."
The Brigade Road was Bangalore's "most iconic hangout" place in the 70s - all the city's fashionable people would go there in the evenings for fun.
An Indian-American couple set up a restaurant there and introduced Bangaloreans to apple pie and waffles, there were a couple of pinball machines
and musically-inclined people would hang out with their guitars; and there was a coffin-maker nearby.
"In those days, we used to say you come to Brigade Road for recreation, sustenance and death. Unfortunately, it's all gone now, replaced by a huge
mall," says Mr Fernandes.
The cartoonist's "sprawling home ground" was filled with trees, birds and dogs and this artwork shows a corner of that house.
"It was customary for gentlemen in the house to have a good lunch and a siesta in the gardens. It was a man's domain - by some unwritten rule
a lady would never sit out there. I was told it was considered not dignified for a lady to sit there."
The Plaza was the iconic cinema hall where the finest Hollywood movies were shown. "My favourite story of the theatre is when an aunt went there with her
family to watch Gone With The Wind. When she came out of the cinema, she found that all four tyres of her car had been stolen.
"They were gone with the wind," he says.
Russell Market was built in 1927 by the British and was named after civic engineer TB Russell. "It still exists as one of the busiest markets in Bangalore.
It's crowded and wonderfully chaotic and you can buy nearly anything you want here," Mr Fernandes says.
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Churchill's unpaid India bill on show | ||||||
Former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill still owes the exclusive Bangalore Club in southern India 13 rupees in unpaid bills. An entry in the ledger book of the club from June 1899 has "Lt WLS Churchill" named as one of 17 defaulters. Churchill arrived in Bangalore in 1896 as a young army officer and left three years later to fight in the North-West Frontier - now in Pakistan. The Bangalore club was formed in 1868 by a group of British officers. Today, it is one of India's most elite clubs, retaining much of its late 19th- and early 20th-Century splendour. 'Rarest of the rare' "He was just another young officer, no-one thought he would one day become the prime minister of Britain," club Secretary Col Krishnan Dakshina Murthy told the BBC.
"It is seldom that the prime minister of a country would be owing something to a club in another country. It's the rarest of the rare case," he says. The ledger book with handwritten entries of bill defaulters is displayed in the main club building which is more than 150 years old. A framed photograph of a strapping young Churchill with fellow officers adorns the wall above the display. The entry in the ledger is clear and concise. It is dated 1 June 1899. "The sub committee approved the following unrecovered sums being written off," it reads. Churchill's is the 12th name from the top in a list of 17 names. His debt to the club was discovered posthumously and, after it became public, many visiting British citizens have offered to clear the dues. Col Murthy says in the last three years that he has been the club secretary, many Britons have approached him. "We tell them that history is history, it can't be rewritten," he says. Sleepy cantonment The club has no historical records of Churchill in Bangalore.
"We have only the old ledgers and the minutes of club meetings documented there," Col Murthy says. In the days Churchill made Bangalore his home, it was not a bustling city with bright lights. Historians say it was then a sleepy cantonment town with little to offer in the way of amusement to young soldiers. And Churchill, by his own account, found the city boring. He spent most of his time reading and collecting butterflies. In his memoir, My Early Life, he describes Bangalore as a "third rate watering place" with "lots of routine work" to do and "without society or good sport". In such circumstances, it is assumed that Churchill spent many an evening in the Bangalore club, drinking whisky which cost seven annas (less than 50 paise, or half a rupee) for a large drink and four annas (25 paise) for a small peg, or measure, of whisky. And perhaps that is how he accumulated the debt of 13 rupees - a considerable sum in those days. | ||||||
It is seldom that the prime minister of a country would be owing something to a club in another country 
