Serpentine Swap

[Lirim Collard]

Justreplaced both serpentine belts in my car, was not running into any kind of squealing before, but had not replaced the belts yet and the car was up to 90k miles. After replacing the belts, they started squealing.

I am getting the impression this is due to load on the alternator, but the tensioner pulley (which is my immediate thought of what would be causing this slipping and squealing noise) is for the other belt, the one that connects the power steering and such.

Anyways, there is no tensioner between the alternator and the motor, it's just one belt that connects the two with nothing in between - at seemingly a static distance. It's installed by removing the bolts on the alternator so it can be moved into and out of place.

The alternator actually pivots around the lower bolt, so you can remove the belt. The other bolt will be in a slot not a round hole, and the position of the bolt in the slot adjusts the belt tension. You didn't tension the belt enough when you refitted the alternator.

If you can find some instructions on how to change the belt they should tell you how tight it should be, but if you can depress it more than half an inch with your fingers (when the engine is off, of course!!!) it's probably too loose.

You can see the guy demonstrating how tight the belt is, at about 3:20 in the video you linked to, but there wasn't a very clear description of how he was judging the tension was correct (and to my eyes, in the video it looked a bit loose).

I just had the same issue after replacing my serpentine belt and tried lots of things and read through lots of blogs. I will say I did not read through this one but I wanted to share what solved my issue and the blogs I had read have already been archived. So, if this has already been offered as a solution forgive the repetition. There were little pieces and strips of the old belt that were stuck down in the bottom of about 25% of the grooves in the pulleys. I took a little pick tool and carefully cleaned out the remnants of the old belt. Sprayed it off with some electronics cleaner (just the pulleys not the belt), ran a clean toothbrush along the grooves in the belt. Put it back together and noise was no more. Hope this helps someone.

-Front-end clearance. The serpentine kit shortens the engine by over 3" compared to the stock configuration with mechanical fan. Add in some slim electric fans, and you'll still have over 2" extra clearance.

-V-belts are a pain to keep tensioned. The factory alternator tensioner sucks, to be blunt. I want to "set it and forget it". I also don't want to bloody my knuckles and spend an hour changing v-belts when 1 belt wipes out all the rest. A 3/8 ratchet and 5 mintues are all you need to change a serpentine belt. That's only 1 tool and 1 belt to keep in the glovebox for a trail repair.

Please CALL Pelican Parts to order if you cannot find online. They have a part number that isn't on their website: Part #: P0122 (P0122 has been reported to be a non-compatible pump by 1 person. Please make sure Pelican confirms they're sending you the correct part.)

Another option for those so inclined is to modify a "long" OM617 water pump. Only certain pumps, such as Gates 41160 have the same OD shaft running thru the whole pump. Others have a larger shaft they turn down at the ends. A pump like the 41160 should be able to be modified with a simple hydraulic press and cutoff wheel.

Known fitment issues: Certain 1985 .952 models have a different thermostat housing. You'll need to drill/tap the interfering port to NPT, plug with a recessed NPT plug, and remove any interfering material from the housing. OM616 and NA OM617 engines are not compatible. 300TD engines with the hyraulic pump boss do not allow use of my "Tensioner Bracket" without modification on your end.

Hey all, I've been googling my tail off and can't figure this out. I have a '15 Edge Sport AWD w/ the 2.7l ecoboost. I bought the Continental P# 4060680 belt from Autozone. Supposed to be direct replacement. It seems like the same size as the old belt. Well I got the old one off just fine. When I try and install the new belt it doesn't go over the tensioner. It seems like it's too short, even though they are the same size. Is there a trick to this? I have done other belts and when you pull the tensioner they tend to slip right over and not be super tight. This one won't even go over the tensioner. Should I be using another pulley?? At a lost and pretty frustrated, any help would be appreciated. I keep trying to look for anything online, but not getting any where.

I hate belt routing but that looks wrong to me. Isn't the alternator (ALT in the pic) the small pulley. You have it running to the tensioner and the idler pulley from the alternator. The diagram doesn't show that.

Attached are from the Service Manual. @jmr061 drew it correctly and as @1004ron stated the old one was routed incorrectly, in my opinion. Was the belt ever replaced before and why are you replacing it now? Maybe the wrong routing caused the early failure.

So this car belongs to a very good friend of mine. I was doing her a favor and swapping the belt. I asked what the vehicle was and she said '15 Ford Edge Sport. I look it up and sure enough 2.7l motor. I pick up the car and it's a sport, says so on the back. Order the belt for it. I spend a few hours thinking I'm insane. I've done a few serp belts and most times they're literally a five min job. This one was longer since you had to remove a tire and fender liner. Well this morning I give her a call and the convo went a little like this:

me: Hey I couldn't do it. You'll need to take it to a real mechanic. I tried for hours to make it work and I'm just stupid. However, the funny thing is that the belt is routed differently than what the manual says it should be.

Talk about info I could have used way earlier. So that explains why things were wrong. I tried to ask her what motor they put in it but decided against it and told her she should take it back to the shop that put the motor in since they know what they put in there.

Now I have to ask.....why was the engine initially replaced and why was it replaced with an different engine than the one than the one that came with it. Unless the only engine available was a 2.0 and it was free... and the labor was free and the warranty was free etc

Yeah I'm aware that this is the 2.7 ecoboost section. As I stated earlier, that's what I believed I was working on. I was just closing out that the owner of the vehicle didn't tell me that the engine was replaced until after I had busted all my knuckles. What they replaced it with, I don't know and at this point IDC.

Now I have to ask.....why was the engine initially replaced and why was it replaced with an different engine than the one than the one that came with it. Unless the only engine available was a 2.0 and it was free... and the labor was free and the warranty was free etc

I'm not sure. The friend bought it from a dealer that was family. I guess it had some problems (used vehicle) and they kept taking it back to the shop. Finally the dealer decided to replace the engine. What they replaced it with, I have no idea, but I can tell you it doesn't seem like a Ford 2.7l ecoboost. When she gets back home from a trip I'll find out more info. As for now, no longer my problem.

Only the 2.7 has a pulley setup as photographed for the 15 Edge. I have no doubt its a 2.7. The work to swap in a completely different size motor would have been way too much work. They put the belt on the wrong. It just needs to be put on the right way.

I have just gone and checked my 2017 Sport and the photos posted are most certainly the 2.7L Ecoboost and my belt is installed as per the photo edited by @jmr061 and the same as the diagram posted.

In my case the tensioner had to come off to get the alternator off, so as long as it is off anyway, why put an old one back on? The spring could have gotten weak and lost tension, the bearing could be getting tired. This does happen. Think about the diameter of the tensioner and idler relative to the crank pulley, and how many times x how fast those things spin.. As it turns out, I definitely didn't need to replace it.

We have seven snakes loaded, and we have seven snakes in the belly. Oh it started back in the 80s, and I think it's because of the serpentine looking tubing. I don't know, some grad students, I came in one day and they said the cans were all snaked up. So they've been called snakes ever since. It becomes a problem when you are shipping canisters, though, to places that actually have snakes. The long name would be Whole Air Sampler, but in science everything has an acronym. So we're WAS. We actually collect the air completely unfiltered. We bring air in from outside. it goes to a pump, gets pressurized, goes into an evacuated can. All these canisters are evacuated in our laboratory. Pressurized to about 40 psi and then the valve is closed. Once the valve is closed then that can is done. And then we go to the next can. And we can sample as many as 168 canisters per flight. We can swap out - these will all be full - put in empties and ship the filled ones back to our laboratory so they can get analysis going. We measure three or four different kinds of gases. We measure gases that destroy stratospheric ozone. We measure gases that are greenhouse gases. We measure gases that come out of the ocean, from different kinds of bugs. We measure gases that are given off by biomass burning. We measure gases that participate in urban pollutions - smog. So we'll quantify a hundred gases, and in some cases, gases that have never had any kind of a global sampling like this project. So what do we expect to learn? I don't know. I guess it's a little bit like asking Lewis and Clark what did they expect, you know, besides trees. But they knew they were gonna find something cool. And we always do.

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