[What Is The Principle Of The Trinitron Sony TV System
Jamar Lizarraga
There may be a difference, but the principle is the same. I once had a Samsung 959nf CRT that got magnetized so badly that some wires of the aperture grille stuck together. It was possible to set it right again with a self-built degaussing wand, so it really should be a piece of cake for a repair shop.
I read about that once in a service manual for an aperture grille screen. The solution was to either display a bright white image on the affected area and hope that the strong electron beam heats up and unsticks the grille wires... or just hit it on the side with your hand until it disappears ?
If the aperture grille was deformed so badly I think you'd see lots of shimmering colours too at the slightest vibration. That's why I thought the purity rings may be misaligned, however the chance of that happening during transport would be very slim.
I think Caesar III is quite nice on a TFT, especially since people on the WSGF forum published patches for higher resolutions (I think on this thread.)
I tried the 1368x768 resolution on a notebook, it worked.
You and your awesome super high resolution CRT displays with aperture grille tubes and sexy refresh rates... Gentlemen, I give you the complete opposite (all pics are click to zoom):
Direct from the innards of rural Argentina, this is a Samsung CVL4955 VGA display from December 1992. A friend of mine got it from some Argentinian redneck there along with a K6-II 300 tower full o' goodies, the monitor didn't power up so he put it in storage until one day we were talking about low res VGA monitors, he remembered he had this one that didn't work and said next trip to Argentina he'll bring it over. About two weeks ago I got my hands on it. ?
I popped the cover off and clearly it has been sitting outside for a long time. There is corrosion on the underside of the PCB so I thought this one could be too far into 'not worth fixing' territory, but I figured out I should at least try cleaning it up and simple/straightforward repairs, if it's anything more complicated than that then it's done for.
I washed the board with soap and water and let it to dry for a few days. It just happens that this monitor is designed for 120VAC while Argentina and Chile are 220V countries, so it's very likely that someone plugged it in straight to the wall and blew up something in the PSU primary (my friend read the nameplate voltage and used an appropriate transformer for testing). The PSU is based on a STR53041 regulator so it's ancient and fixed input voltage. Usually in a gross overvoltage condition like 220V mains in a 110V appliance the switching element might short, the main filter capacitor bursts and the fuse blows. Regulator and fuse were OK, but the top on the main filter cap was bulging a little bit. Bingo. Replaced the cap, resoldered some suspicious looking solder joints (like on big power resistors) and put everything together for a test run:
It powered up with a nice bright raster so I thought 'great, I fixed it!' but after a minute or two something really bizarre happened. I noticed the smell of something like rancid tuna, at first I thought it came from the outside but soon realized it came from the monitor! I quickly unplugged it thinking a capacitor was about to blow up, checked the board but nothing was amiss, the smell seemed to be coming from the PCB itself. WTF?
So I set the monitor outside and plugged it in once again, thinking that either something will fail catastrophically (like a blown cap or an arcing flyback) or the board has absorbed something from whatever critters of nature lived in it and it's now releasing the stench as it heats up (or because of the current flow? who knows). Fortunately nothing ever failed and after about two hours the stench was pretty much gone, so I cleaned the cabinet, put it back together and called it a job well done.
The picture tube is in great condition! Very bright and good geometry, but wow I didn't remember how blurry these were! The RGB triads can be clearly seen up close with the naked eye much like an old television, even 80x25 text mode shows how coarse and terrible the dot pitch is, have a look at the following pictures in full size and you'll see what I mean:
Even with the sharpest focus setting 640x480 is borderline unusable (reading file names in Windows 3.1's File Manager is an exercise in eye strain), and the weird thing is, I kinda like it. I like the sort of 'organic' look it gives to games, and I believe that if you were gaming on a budget in '92 this is probably much closer to the 'real' experience.
Is this what EGA displays looked like? I've never seen a real EGA in person since everyone jumped from MDA/CGA directly to VGA around here, and even though I've played a ton of EGA games during my childhood I always did on a VGA/SVGA system.
I wish I would have kept an old ViewStar 17" CRT.I still remember the days I was playing on it,I was playing 4 hours day and 4 hours night,and when I finally would turn it off,my eyes would be red as if I would have taken weed ?
For me, scaling isn't the most annoying thing any more, it's the fact that one has to resort to crappy TN and VA panels to avoid jerky scrolling at 70 Hz VGA modes.
If anyone knows an IPS monitor with 1200 pixels vertical resolution which is capable of displaying 70 Hz without dropping frames, please tell. ?
This one is my main monitor for DOS/Win9x games. I think it would be considered SVGA, only topping out at 600x800, I don't know the max refresh rate though, but I'm assuming its 60hz at that resolution.
I got this monitor for $2 ?
I found it very difficult to find out if a TFT is capable of displaying 70 Hz (unless I connect a laptop and test myself, which is not possible in any of the shops I know). This feature is never listed in the specifications and sales people and the manufacturer's technical support staff do not know what I'm talking about. So far I've never seen an IPS panel that doesn't judder at 70 Hz.
With the introduction of the a5100, Sony has officially left the NEX brand behind. The a5100 is the follow-up to the NEX-5 series, and sits above the a5000 (formerly the NEX-3) and below a6000 (which replaced the NEX-6/7). Confused yet?
The a5100 combines the compact designs of the NEX-3N and NEX-5T and throws in the guts of the a6000, which means that it has a 24MP CMOS sensor, Bionz X processor, on-chip phase detection covering 92% of the frame and Wi-Fi with NFC. Both cameras have tilting LCDs, with the one on the a5100 flipping upward 180 degrees (for - you guessed it - selfies) and the a6000's tilting both up and down by 90 and 45 degrees, respectively.
Both cameras can record 1080/60p video, with the a5100 supporting the XAVC S codec, allowing for bit rates of 50Mbps. It also has the ability to simultaneously record 720p video while recording at higher resolutions.
While there are many similarities in terms of spec, the a5100 and a6000 are targeted toward two distinctly different audiences. With its EVF, hot shoe, and additional physical controls, the a6000 is more of an enthusiast ILC. The a5100 has none of those things, and the fact that it has a help button on the rear of the camera hints that this is a camera for entry-level photography.
Most of the differences between the a5100 and its predecessor are internal. You get the 24MP sensor from the a6000 (up from 16MP on the NEX-5T), the latest Bionz X processor, a wider phase detection AF area, and much more promising video specs.
Externally, the a5100 now has a built-in flash, where the NEX-5T requires an external flash which connects to its proprietary shoe. Two things you can no longer do is attach an optional EVF or use a wireless remote control (though your smartphone can handle that).
One huge improvement on the a5100 is its hybrid autofocus system. While the 25-point contrast detect part of the system remains the same as on the NEX-5T, the number of phase-detect points has increased from 99 to 179. All of those extra phase detect points give you a much wider coverage area: roughly 92% of the frame, compared to around 50%. The benefit? A wider area that lets phase detection autofocus do what it does best: track moving subjects.
The a5100 is a pretty big step up from the a5000, especially for subject tracking and video recording. The autofocus system that has proven itself on the a6000 has been carried over, which is good news for parents trying to capture fast-moving subjects. Video is considerably better, moving up from 60i to 60p, and adding the XAVC S codec and accompanying higher bit rate. Like its big brother, the a5100 supports clean HDMI output.
I have had this camera for a while and can attest this is the THE BEST APS-C camera for the money, lightest weight, smallest size, easiest operation, insane AF and overall IQ.. its simple and amazing piece of gear. IF ONLY it had a mic input.. that's the "oh noooooo" of this camera. The perfect budget APS-C interchangeable lenses camera, just one connector away..................................
I have one of the NEX series cameras, and I want to upgrade to one with a flash, but I use the remote all the time and I saw that you noted that the a5100 doesn't work with a remote. Are there any that do? Or what do you mean "though your smartphone can handle that"?
Install Sony Imaging Edge app on your phone and connect phone and A5100 using wifi. Camera broadcasts WiFi SSID. Easy to transfer photos to phone in original res or 2M. Also trigger shutter from phone or use phone as live monitor! Useful for cameras whose screens don't flip (A6500). Also install free 3rd party app onto the camera to handle timelapse. Quite easy to do, look it up on Internet.
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