Best Games Under 3gb Size For Pc

[Yamila Comejo]

Ive currently got a '93 Lightning as a tow vehicle. I'm debating getting rid of it because the a/c needs repair, it leaks vital fluids and it drives like something from 1993. I've historically been a Ford guy but am less than enthused about the 4.6/5.4 engines.

My ideal truck is 2wd (I never use the 4wd in our Jeep), extended cab with minimum 6' bed. It will be used for towing, so no wimpy sixes. No diesels. Repeat, no diesels. Don't need one, don't like them, can't afford the maintenance on them as I can't DIY anything.

At that budget it's whatever you find that's closest to the configuration you want in the best shape. You're looking at 10 year old trucks that are all good in some ways and strange in others. If it's been well kept and you continue to keep it up it probably won't bite you but there's no guarantees. I'm quite fond of the GMT900 (07-13 Chevy/GMC) trucks especially if you can get lucky enough to find one new enough to have the 6L80 trans. the GMT800 (99-07) trucks are nice but they definitely got nicer to live with in many ways. The only way they got worse from my experience is the battery gets put in an annoying location and headlight bulbs are more difficult to change.

I picked up my 2004 F350 V10 2WD for a little more than pocket change but saw much nicer trucks with the V10 in your price range. The V10 runs smoothly and is great for towing, seems like we had a thread about the Ford V10 a while back. Upkeep is simple overall, one coil dropping out about a month after replacing the spark plugs , other than that just normal stuff like tires and brakes.

Any reason to exclude Titans and Tundras? $10k puts you in a mid- late 2000's truck. Those trucks compared very favorably to the big 3 back in that generation. A casual search showed that nice Tundras were a bit tough to come by for the price, but lots of nice Titans available. May be worth it to at least take them for a drive before you write them off.

@Blaise has pretty much the truck that would do it for me though nowadays I'd spring some extra for the extended cab. The worst part about the GM truck would be all the crow I'd have to eat from my GM fanboi friends having been a Ford guy all these years, lol.

I tow an open trailer. 6.0 to me would be overkill as would the Ford V10 though I'd certainly not turn one down if priced right. My Lightning has around 250hp which seems like a lot to a guy who never had a truck with more than about 180hp in his past.

Not sure if our experience helps. But for two of our lease cycles, we got a 5.4l F150. Our tow package was a 700lb aluminum trailer (that you have seen) and a 2400lb Alfa GTV (which you have also seen). Generally, we got 15mpg when towing.

In other words, IMHO, it does not NEED to be a full sized truck. It makes it a little better, but given that the last Rangers were not *that* much smaller than the Lightning you have, you'd barely notice other than the power your truck has for fun.

The other thing that all of our trucks had in common was 4 doors. Where the rear two doors were clamshell. If there was anything you get- I'd more than 100% suggest getting an extended cab truck that has real doors to the rear. That made travel SO much easier.

I know I'm a Ford guy, but the mod motors of that era had issues, too. Mostly spark plugs, either spitting them out (2V) or refusing to let them out (3V), but also cam phasers. So, you kind of have to pick your poison. Or get a Ram and deal with mid-2000s DCX quality control.

If it it's the former, of the pickups that make deliveries here, I'd say it's about 50/50 Ford/GM. I can't remember the last time a Dodge pickup pulled in, although two of our customers have old Dodge vans.

I don't think AFM made it into the trucks until 2007 MY with the body style change over. You did have CSK on the 99-06's (Cold Start Knock), but that is more an annoyance than a faiure. I've see/heard these make noise for a decade and 200k miles after they start with no issues other than noise. The 4L65's work but need maintenance (regular fluid changes and external coolers). The 2WD GMT800's were R&P steering.

Speaking of machine shops, my local shop made bank on the early HEMI's. Apparently they were pulling rocker studs like a mid 70's GM with a 3/4 race cam (wink wink). The last time I was in he had 8 sets getting new studs.

What kind of engines are being rebuilt and when, because that's what keeps machine shops in business. I got a thumbs up for buying the Cummins, a hearty laugh for the 3.0 V6 and indifference for the Toyota 4.7.

After using Home Assistant for several weeks, and after adding many integrations and devices, the recorder database will grow. A lot. The larger the database, the slower Home Assistant will run, because SQLite will have to read/write more data (and more metadata, such as indexes). This will mostly cause excessive I/O, making some parts of the system stall while waiting for reads and writes. Excessive I/O also causes more stress (i.e. more wear) on flash-based storage (such as SD cards), meaning they will degrade faster and they will fail sooner than you might expect.

In the default configuration, Home Assistant keeps a history of all the events and states for all the entities, for about 10 days. This data powers the History and the Logbook features. The data itself is stored by the Recorder integration, which by default writes it to a SQLite database file /config/home-assistant_v2.db.

After some investigation, you can figure out that some entities update too often, and a few others have very long attributes; and those entities account for most of the space in the database. Thus, you can filter such entities and that will help trimming the fat out of your database. You can go from hundreds of megabytes, or even from a few gigabytes, to a database under a hundred megabytes. And a smaller database means a faster and more responsive Home Assistant, smaller backups, and also less wear on the SD card where the database is stored.

Also note that you can safely delete that database file, and Home Assistant will recreate an empty one upon starting. You can also safely disable the Recorder integration altogether, as it is only used for historical data, and it is not needed for normal usage.

However, a much simpler and easier way is to configure a sensor that shows the size of the database file. Just make sure you understand the implications of allowlist_external_dirs (and feel free to add a comment below about this). Edit your /config/configuration.yaml file:

This sensor will be updated every half minute. Since each state change will add a couple of rows to the recorder database, you may prefer to reduce the update frequency. If you so desire, just add scan_interval: 1800 (for 30-minute interval) to the sensor configuration. (This option can be configured for any integration that uses polling.)

NOTE: the instructions just above are for an older Home Assistant version. Newer versions can add the File Size integration directly , and also require different steps to change the default polling interval.

In my case, I had 10 times state_changed events than call_service, which was 3 times the amount of all remaining events combined. Thus, we can easily conclude these are the main contributors to the size of this table.

NOTE: The byte count in this query only considers the attributes column (which is the only column with arbitrary limitless length). It does not mean the actual size of the rows, but instead we can understand it as a lower bound.

Now that you know which entities are bloating your database, you can filter them out. Feel free to filter as many or as few as you want. When considering if you should filter it or not, ask yourself: Does the history of the state changes for this entity bring me value? Does it bring me as much value as the size it takes?

And if you want to reduce the frequency of file writes, increase commit_interval from the default 1 second to 5, 10, 15, 30 or 60 seconds (or any other interval you may like). This may help prolonging the lifespan of the SD card with minimal side-effect (the most recent history and logbook entries will take longer to show up).

I was having trouble with my Home Assistant instance, and it was related to the database file being over 500MB, getting close to 1GB. With the changes mentioned in this guide, the database is now under 35MB, and Home Assistant is much more stable.

I do the same thing with the weather entities and various other sensor entities which tend to generate bloated attribute lists. My exclude list is pretty long. Some folks go the other way and just include the things they know they want recorder to store. For me this was a bit easier and has been very effective, but I could argue for either approach.

Overall I would suppose the size of database change a bit all day long - like the other one has been around 2 days 51.54 MB. At least after every purge I should see smaller database - I do not see that either.

Thus, in order for the database file size to shrink, a slower cleaning-up procedure has to be executed. Since this can cause slowdowns (specially for larger databases) and a lot of I/O, it is not executed automatically. You can still ask for it using repack: true:

When using SQLite or PostgreSQL this will rewrite the entire database. When using MySQL or MariaDB it will optimize or recreate the events and states tables. This is a heavy operation that can cause slowdowns and increased disk space usage while it runs. Only supported by SQLite, PostgreSQL, MySQL and MariaDB.

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