Organic Kale Coles

[Giacometta Fritchman]

Elkale es una hortaliza, variedad de las coles o berzas, y de la familia de las crucferas. De esta misma familia podemos encontrar tambin el brcoli y la coliflor. Pero el kale es una variedad de las muchas que tienen las coles o berzas. Cada vez ms se cultiva en Espaa esta variante de col por sus altas propiedades nutritivas.

If we look for the reasons for the fashion to consume Kale, they are the very good properties it has, being one of the most digestive and most complete vegetables in terms of minerals such as calcium, iron, potassium and magnesium and vitamins C, E, A and K. Another special feature is that it provides very few calories and high fiber content. Essential to maintain a healthy diet.

It adapts well to cold climates, in all the orchards in the north we can see cabbage plantations in different variants. It is resistant to frost and low winter temperatures, being a recurring vegetable to have all year round.

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Coles Are Good for the Cold

Cole crops do best when daytime temperatures are below 68F. Not only can they handle cooler weather, but most actually taste better after a light frost. Cole crops can all handle a frost, and cabbage can even handle temperatures down to 10F. Kale and broccoli are not quite as cold tolerant, but with a cold frame or low tunnel, these crops can be grown in almost any area of the country, even through winter.

Planting

Select a sunny site with rich, well-draining soil to plant these vegetables. Working some good compost into the soil before planting is always a good idea, as they can be heavy feeders.

For Spring planting, the quicker growing crops like mustard, chard, kale, and turnips can be directly sown into the garden once the soil has reached 45F. Cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, and kohlrabi seeds can be started indoors 6 to 8 weeks before last frost, and planted out two weeks before the last frost.

Special Considerations

Cole crops can sometimes be prone to fungal diseases such as mildew. The best defense is to start with healthy soil and healthy plants, and to look for disease resistant varieties. Trim off any diseased looking leaves and throw away. Mild cases of fungal disease can usually be treated with an organic sulfur powder.

Cabbage loopers, are caterpillars of a small moth (Trichoplusia ni) in the family Noctuidae, and in particular to the subfamily of cutworm Plusiinae. The wingspan of these grayish- brown moths is about 1.5 inches wide. In the larval stage, these smooth green caterpillars arch their backs when they walk, similar to how inch worms walk, as they only have legs in the front and very back. There is a thin white line along each side of the caterpillar and two white lines are found along its back. They prefer the lower green leaves when young, and can bore into the center of cabbage heads or move to the upper leaves of their host plant.

The next culprit is the Cabbage white butterflies (Pieris rapae) in the family Pieridae, and was introduced to Canada around 1860, spreading rapidly throughout North America. Their wingspan is also about 1.5 inches wide and they spend the winter as a chrysalis, emerging in the early spring in our area. These first spring butterflies quickly mature and lay eggs on our early crucifer crops and continue to do so through the summer. The caterpillars are velvety bluish-green with a lateral row of yellow dashes and a yellow mid-dorsal line. They are easily seen eating the plants, remaining in the sun for the majority of the day.

The complete life cycle of this insect requires three to six weeks, depending on the weather. The number of generations reported annually is two to three in Canada, three in the New England states, three to five in California, and six to eight in the South. Imported cabbageworm can be found throughout the year in Florida.

Upon emergence from the chrysalis, the butterfly has a wingspan of about 4.5 to 6.5 cm. The body of the butterfly is covered with dense hair, which is colored white in females, but darker in males. The adult typically lives about three weeks. The female produces 300 to 400 eggs. The adult is very active during the daylight hours, often moving from the crop to flowering weeds to feed.

They need to land on your plant to lay eggs. Stop them. By using row covers over the vegetable, you eliminate the butterfly or moth from landing and laying eggs. What sort of covers? Look for reemay (or remay) or floating row covers at your favorite store. Make sure you also pick up the hoops to keep the covers above your plants. The strategy then is to grow your cabbages and cauliflowers together for ease of handling.

One planting that I do agree with,not only for cabbages and cauliflower, but for many of our crops, is to grow diverse plants. Having rows upon rows of cabbages is a recipe for disaster. You are advertising to the adult moths and butterflies to come visit.

Not squeamish? Grab a bucket of soapy water and start picking them off. This is usually a difficult process as the caterpillars will tunnel into the heads. Picking them is best done when they are young and are feasting on the outer leaves.

These products are considered organic, but they will kill all caterpillars including monarchs, swallowtails and many more. We have used both as a spot treatment and have decided to not grow certain varieties that are known to attract these moths and butterflies. For us, living in balance and finding a mutually beneficial solution was more important than harvesting green cabbage.

Chinese cabbage, turnip, mustard, rutabaga and kale are less preferred than cabbage, collards, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower. Some cultivars of certain crops also have moderate levels of resistance. One resistance character is correlated with dark green, glossy leaves. This character shows resistance to cabbage worms and other caterpillars, but increases susceptibility to flea beetles. The red color found in many varieties also affects whether the butterfly will choose to lay eggs on the plant. Cabbage white butterflies avoid egg-laying (ovipositing) on red cabbage varieties. However, larval survival is favored by red cabbage. In other words, the red cabbage will have fewer eggs laid on them, but the ones that hatch will have caterpillars that are more robust!

Organic Seed.

This seed has been organically produced. The seed has been harvested from plants that have themselves been grown to recognised organic standards, without the use of chemicals. No treatments have been used, either before or after harvest and the seed is supplied in its natural state. It has been certified and is labelled with the Organic symbol.

Prepare the site:

There is an ideal soil and site for Kale but rest assured it will grow in almost all conditions, even part shade. It will produce a good crop provided that the drainage is satisfactory. For the ultimate crop, grow in full sun in a soil that was enriched with compost or manure the previous season.

As the seedlings are not transplanted until June or July, it is usual to use land which has recently been vacated by peas, early potatoes or other early summer crops. Kale benefits from additional feedings of liquid fertilizer during the growing season; the flavour is improved if the plants grow quickly.

Sowing: Sow in spring and autumn

Sow the seeds where they will mature, as they detest transplanting from April onwards. The timing is not crucial because kales will germinate in temperatures as low as 5C (42F) and as high as 35C (95F). That's an enormous range for any vegetable. The trick is to time the planting so the kale matures in cold weather.

Kale does not tolerate heat, so direct seed or transplant kale so that it comes to harvest before day time temperatures exceed 26C (80F).

Sow kale under cover in autumn for baby leaves after four to six weeks, or directly outdoors for an over-wintering crop.

Sow the seeds about 1.5cm (in) deep in rows which are 22cm (9in) apart. Germination will take about 10 days. When the plant is about 22cm (9in) high and four leaves have developed (about 6 -8 weeks after sowing) transplant them to their final positions.

They should be planted slightly deeper than they grew in the seed bed. Spacings are 45cm (18in) apart with rows the same distance apart. Water the young plants in dry weather.

Cultivation:

Almost no care is required because these are one of the strongest and most disease resistant of all vegetables. Remove yellowing leaves which may appear round the base. Keep the weeds under control with regular hoeing. As winter approaches earth up plants to protect against frost and wind rock. Mulch thickly when the ground freezes and you can harvest again in early spring.

Harvest: Matures 50 to 60 days from transplant.

Wait until the plants are touched by a frost to sweeten the taste. When the leaves have experienced a cold snap, they wrinkle and curl and strengthen greatly, creating a more satisfying, textural leaf. Some of the tastiest kale is harvested under a foot of snow!

Pluck individual leaves as you need them; one or two leaves for each serving. Avoid cutting the developing bud at the centre of each plant.

Remember!

Rotate your crops, planting brassicas, of any kinds, in the same ground more often than once every four years runs the risk of club root infestation and once you have it, the ground is useless for up to a decade. Don't take needless chances, even with "catch crops" of radishes.

Because Kale eats up a lot of growing space if planted in a bed with the other brassicas, you may prefer to grow kale in a bucket or other generous planter, separate from your main crops. The soil can then be easily replaced annually, with old soil being dumped far from any growing area.

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