Adc Zero Offset

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Taneka Tarring

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Aug 4, 2024, 4:53:00 PM8/4/24

to tabbasiso

Ijust wonder what your experience is regarding the Zero Offset Calibration from The Assioma pedals. I read you shall do this before every ride is this really such a big thing? Or will it be good enough to do this once a week or when you reinstall them?

Last 2-3 weeks I did a lot of outdoor riding, while I did some intensive rides well they did feel hard to me the numbers were not impressive compare to my Indoor sessions I think there I did the Trainers Powermeter.

So yesterday I did a Zero Offset and then I actually remembered that I once did take the pedals off to install one of the Washers that came with them, and not sure most likely did not calibrate them.

The ride I did yesterday was about 1h Avg Watt 203W and NP 253W IF 0.97 My TR FTP is 262W but I did think it was more like around 250 best case.

I am new to outdoor riding with a Powermeter so first, I did think the numbers are lower because it is just different to ride outdoors. Since I need to stop sometimes watch the street also there is coasting that I guess will pull the avg down.

Yes exactly what i did. So i guess chances are good that the numbers are true now. Still i think i never saw NP from 250W in all my TR Workouts, and the ride was not as brutal as many trainer sessions i did, so a bit of skeptically still there. Maybe that is the extra recovery you get outside and the better cooling? TR does not support outdoor and indoor FTP right? I read that many ppl have a higher outdoor ftp? So how you take that into account when you look at a Outdoor ride? I guess i will ride my 20 min training hill where i know my Time and then compare the power numbers. i think that will give me a good idea. right now i think the Power was off by about 15 to 20W

I guess that would be the best. But on my wahoo i dont get a message like this i think. Can you do the calibration from the Garmin or you also have to go to the Favero app. Soon i need a pre flight check list. Once i did ride away just to realise i forgot my helm.

It may not be required but I do the zero offset through the phone app before every ride. I have noticed that my crank length seems to change between rides so this is another reason why I do it this way (other than peace of mind).

Offset is 8-bit in 2's complement format. The value in the OFFTRIM register is 16*Offset so 112 is 16*(7LSB). Setting the offset to 7LSBs ensures that devices with natural offsets of negative LSBs will be accounted for in the calibration process described in the TRM.

Hi, I'm a new user of Fusion 360. I'm trying to figure out how to set an X-Y zero offset from my stock. Currently I use VisualMill for my CAM needs. It allows me to select a point on the box stock just like Fusion 360 but I can also input a coordinate to offset the stock from zero. Is there a way to do this in Fusion 360?

I have a spot of trouble that I hope you can all help me out with. I am using a NI 9209 analog voltage input running 16 channels differential mode. All data cables are from the same twisted pair macrocable. The COM channel is connected the foil shield in the macro cable, which is again grounded on the physical measurement end of the cable. I run in high resolution mode using DAQmx to set up the virtual channel in Labview, with DAQmx sampling clock at continuous sample mode and a 1 Hz per channel frequency (conversion time per channel is 52 ms in high resolution mode = 832 ms total for 16 channels. But 1 Hz just looks better to my eyes...), and the input impedance is stated to be over 1 Gohm.

1. When you say short the channel with offset to COM, do you mean the COM channel on the NI 9209 itself? I tried doing this - over a 100 kohm resistor as shown in the getting started guide for floating differential measurement (well, the guide says 1 Mohm but we only had the smaller one at hand). The offset persisted.

Does that mean I can offset null the specific channels with offset and trust that the offset will be steady for the lifetime? Just want to make sure I am not missing anything before I lock in and deploy the system. Thank you for your reply!

No, that would not necessarily be constant over the lifetime. Offset errors drift with temperature changes and are also only valid during the calibration interval of the device. Offset errors are only a portion of the total measurement uncertainty.

In my search of a near zero / zero offset iron set for left-handers, particularly ones that aren't blades, I came across these, and I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on them. I'll post up how they hit when I get them.

Most likely only gonna carry a 5-PW in this model. I don't know why there aren't more low/zero offset irons even for people that aren't low handicappers. Not every mid-high handicapper is fighting a slice. Anyone here have experience with these?

I agree with you on most mid-hi cap being below average ball strikers. But these are actually mid sized. Not players iron sized. They look like a players iron, but there's certainly more forgiveness than most players irons. I guess when I was at my worst in ball striking, I never had a problem slicing, so I just never understood why almost every single iron has offset. Think about it... Most all drivers have no offset and they are typically the hardest clubs to control. If offset was the cure for all the crappy ball strikers (about 95% of golfers) why don't we see a massive market for offset drivers?

I've read that it's difficult to slice an iron because of the COG and the way they are designed. I know for myself, I draw my irons 99% of the time. As for offset, people theorize all the time whether it's useful to fight a slice and/or to help increase launch. Upon closer inspection, I see that you do have a valid point in these being mid-sized which I apparently missed the first time around when I looked.

Most people have different deliveries with the driver and with irons. It's slight, but significant. I don't take a divot with my driver. I don't tee up my irons an inch or more off the ground. Offset in irons, from what I understand, is to promote the hands being ahead of the club head through the ball. I have a set of no offset Tommy Armour 986 and they make me more aware that I have to have my hands ahead - other iron sets there's a little help...Most amateurs don't have any idea why they play the clubs they do. Most have no idea what they are doing when they step up to hit the ball. I'm only just learning and I'm what you'd call a decent plater. You could have the finest fitter set them up and they might not make a par on the day. I don't care as long as they play fast.

What offset does to me is this. I have a subconcious habit of initially aligning my club using the hosel and the toe. If I do that, the club is slightly closed because of the offset. So. I have to either live with it and aim more left or reset my grip to where I am aiming correctly. My clubs have white paint on the bottom groove, which helps but still does not cure. Usually I paint a few lines white and I just haven't gotten around to doing that. I fix it by aiming more left generally.

True, but most mid-high cappers slice. Whether they fight it or accept it and follow the jargon floated on TV about "POWER_FADES" is another topic for a good drunk. ? LOL IMO - offset is a game lifesaver for a most golfers.

I play 620 MBs which have minimal offset, and have a set of 620 CBs, with same specs at MBs. Though I can hit irons with ZERO offset, that, to my thinking, is as extreme as the offset on some of PINGS irons. I bet Ping has research saying how many golfers benefit from offset.

Back in 2005, I bought a new set of 735 cm blended irons from Titleist with reasonable offset in long irons. What I didn't know was .150 - .130 offset in 2i - 4i, with deep cavity made working long irons challenging; sold them a year later. Same thing happened only quicker when I bought TM Rsi TP irons, .320 offset in 2i. My MacGregor 2i has .100; my 670 MB 2i has .125, even the few CB irons I played had under .130 offset.