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Mathew Moothasseril
Aug 1, 2018, 10:31:35 PM8/1/18
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A slice of the unexpected in Shimla
REEM KHOKHAR AUGUST 01, 2018 14:41 IST
UPDATED: AUGUST 01, 2018 14:41 IST
SHARE ARTICLE 13 PRINT A A A
Beyond the horizon A view of the mountains, a chalet at the resort and
Viceregal Lodge special arrangement
MORE-IN
Beyond the veil of crowded, touristy Shimla, lie the many charms of
pristine, quiet Naldehra
A siren slices the evening air, stopping us in our tracks. Our host,
Amish Sud, explains, “It signals the end of the work day in Shimla. 5
o’clock.” We’re in neighbouring Naldehra, hoping for snowfall, but
what we miss is made up for by sunshine-flooded days, rambles through
a wildlife reserve, a visit to a art gallery, warming ourselves by a
roaring fire in a log cabin and wandering through arresting colonial
architecture.
Sud has lived here all his life and takes us to his rambling home with
wonderful views of Shimla. It is a property that dates back to the
early 1830s, and one of the oldest in town. After a rather dusty drive
from Kalka (a four-lane road to Shimla is being built), we welcome the
chance to play with the rambunctious Labrador retriever who comes
rushing at us with a beer can wedged firmly between her jaws. Owners
of the 22-year-old Chalets Naldehra, 22 kilometres away, the Suds run
a few hotels in the area. We wander around the log cabins, built of
imported wood from Finland, spread across the lawn and forested
pockets with porches and hammocks in which to laze, read or gaze at
the mountains. Spring here, I am told, is a riot of colour, with
daffodils, hydrangeas, magnolias, ornamental cherries and honeysuckle
crowding the landscape.
We stop at apple orchards and check out the charming homestay in
Purani Koti. Even in winter, there is a stark beauty to these slopes,
streaked in silver, brown and lashes of green. We head to the Shimla
Water Catchment Wildlife Sanctuary (closed on Mondays), which Sud says
is one of the prettiest in the area. We set off on the 14-kilometre
trail through a forest of cedars, pines and oaks. One can also hire
bicycles at the entrance. It ends at the large water tank, which used
to supply water to Shimla during British rule, its capacity at the
time enough for the population of 35,000. It’s tranquil, with no one
to interrupt your thoughts. Hunger drives us to The Mall to carb-load
a lunch of fries, waffles, shakes and bakes at the popular Wake & Bake
restaurant. You could also stop over at Craignano Park, the erstwhile
estate of the Italian confectioner to the Viceroy.
Oldest golf course
We drive over to the Naldehra Golf Course, one of India’s oldest,
created under Lord Curzon’s supervision in the early 1900s. It is a
challenging course, with dips and turns along the glade, amid a forest
of deodar trees and magnificent views.
The cold descends quickly, and we fortify ourselves with drink in the
revolving restaurant at the Chalets, with lovely 360-degree views.
After dinner, we walk in the inky darkness to a patch in the forest,
where the ceiling of trees opens up to reveal a brilliant star-filled
sky.
The Mall beckons us for a leisurely promenade in the afternoon sun,
where we enter Dewan Chand Atmaram to gaze at its range of woollens.
We take in Gaiety Theatre, a charming Victorian building, which hosts
various plays, concerts and exhibitions; the Gothic-style Shimla Town
Hall, currently under renovation; the imposing and sadly charred
Gorton Castle; an engine-shaped erstwhile railway booking office; and
the sprawling Viceregal Lodge.
The Sanat Art Foundation, a 10-minute car ride away in the village of
Huin, is home to the fascinating artist and professor of Visual Arts,
Him Chatterjee. His residence/gallery displays a collection of his
works, inspired by the region; as well as a gallery dedicated to Him’s
father, Sanat Kumar — one of the pioneers of the Bengal School of Art.
Him gives us a personal tour of the gallery, talking about his work
and his late father — the sage artist who withdrew to the mountains,
painting or sculpting every single day and never selling his work.
Sanat’s work is now displayed across various Raj Bhavans in India.
Later in the evening, we round off dinner with one of Sud’s creations,
an almond and orange cake, which he advises us to drown in the freshly
squeezed orange juice served alongside. One bite and the burst of
flavour completely surprises us.
Much like Shimla. Beyond the popular hill station, is a slice of the unexpected.
--
*GATHER THE SCATTERED*
Fr Mathew Moothasseril
Sant Thoma Bhavan
Post Box 306
RAMAN MALA
Kolhapur,416 003
Maharashtra
INDIA
REEM KHOKHAR AUGUST 01, 2018 14:41 IST
UPDATED: AUGUST 01, 2018 14:41 IST
SHARE ARTICLE 13 PRINT A A A
Beyond the horizon A view of the mountains, a chalet at the resort and
Viceregal Lodge special arrangement
MORE-IN
Beyond the veil of crowded, touristy Shimla, lie the many charms of
pristine, quiet Naldehra
A siren slices the evening air, stopping us in our tracks. Our host,
Amish Sud, explains, “It signals the end of the work day in Shimla. 5
o’clock.” We’re in neighbouring Naldehra, hoping for snowfall, but
what we miss is made up for by sunshine-flooded days, rambles through
a wildlife reserve, a visit to a art gallery, warming ourselves by a
roaring fire in a log cabin and wandering through arresting colonial
architecture.
Sud has lived here all his life and takes us to his rambling home with
wonderful views of Shimla. It is a property that dates back to the
early 1830s, and one of the oldest in town. After a rather dusty drive
from Kalka (a four-lane road to Shimla is being built), we welcome the
chance to play with the rambunctious Labrador retriever who comes
rushing at us with a beer can wedged firmly between her jaws. Owners
of the 22-year-old Chalets Naldehra, 22 kilometres away, the Suds run
a few hotels in the area. We wander around the log cabins, built of
imported wood from Finland, spread across the lawn and forested
pockets with porches and hammocks in which to laze, read or gaze at
the mountains. Spring here, I am told, is a riot of colour, with
daffodils, hydrangeas, magnolias, ornamental cherries and honeysuckle
crowding the landscape.
We stop at apple orchards and check out the charming homestay in
Purani Koti. Even in winter, there is a stark beauty to these slopes,
streaked in silver, brown and lashes of green. We head to the Shimla
Water Catchment Wildlife Sanctuary (closed on Mondays), which Sud says
is one of the prettiest in the area. We set off on the 14-kilometre
trail through a forest of cedars, pines and oaks. One can also hire
bicycles at the entrance. It ends at the large water tank, which used
to supply water to Shimla during British rule, its capacity at the
time enough for the population of 35,000. It’s tranquil, with no one
to interrupt your thoughts. Hunger drives us to The Mall to carb-load
a lunch of fries, waffles, shakes and bakes at the popular Wake & Bake
restaurant. You could also stop over at Craignano Park, the erstwhile
estate of the Italian confectioner to the Viceroy.
Oldest golf course
We drive over to the Naldehra Golf Course, one of India’s oldest,
created under Lord Curzon’s supervision in the early 1900s. It is a
challenging course, with dips and turns along the glade, amid a forest
of deodar trees and magnificent views.
The cold descends quickly, and we fortify ourselves with drink in the
revolving restaurant at the Chalets, with lovely 360-degree views.
After dinner, we walk in the inky darkness to a patch in the forest,
where the ceiling of trees opens up to reveal a brilliant star-filled
sky.
The Mall beckons us for a leisurely promenade in the afternoon sun,
where we enter Dewan Chand Atmaram to gaze at its range of woollens.
We take in Gaiety Theatre, a charming Victorian building, which hosts
various plays, concerts and exhibitions; the Gothic-style Shimla Town
Hall, currently under renovation; the imposing and sadly charred
Gorton Castle; an engine-shaped erstwhile railway booking office; and
the sprawling Viceregal Lodge.
The Sanat Art Foundation, a 10-minute car ride away in the village of
Huin, is home to the fascinating artist and professor of Visual Arts,
Him Chatterjee. His residence/gallery displays a collection of his
works, inspired by the region; as well as a gallery dedicated to Him’s
father, Sanat Kumar — one of the pioneers of the Bengal School of Art.
Him gives us a personal tour of the gallery, talking about his work
and his late father — the sage artist who withdrew to the mountains,
painting or sculpting every single day and never selling his work.
Sanat’s work is now displayed across various Raj Bhavans in India.
Later in the evening, we round off dinner with one of Sud’s creations,
an almond and orange cake, which he advises us to drown in the freshly
squeezed orange juice served alongside. One bite and the burst of
flavour completely surprises us.
Much like Shimla. Beyond the popular hill station, is a slice of the unexpected.
--
*GATHER THE SCATTERED*
Fr Mathew Moothasseril
Sant Thoma Bhavan
Post Box 306
RAMAN MALA
Kolhapur,416 003
Maharashtra
INDIA
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