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Jon Followell

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Aug 5, 2024, 9:58:16 AM8/5/24
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Itwas early July, 2015, when after almost three years of on-again, off-again turmoil, the girl of my dreams walked out the door and out of my life. I was left alone in my darkest hour and compensated with a summer lost in the mountains, a new bike, and a last-minute ticket to Nepal, booked on a whim to join three friends on a self-supported bike-packing trip.

The earthquake damage goes far beyond crumbling buildings and infrastructure; in fact, most of the country has little to no damage. The more devastating aftereffects are the social, economic and political situations. Tourism is down and a blockade by India means fuel is short on supply. Gas has skyrocketed to five dollars per litre and in a land where the average income is less than ten dollars per day, that leaves many families devoid of transportation, heating or cooking options. And yet, despite the hardships, the people of Nepal are resilient and quick to smile. It feels like the perfect place to be.


Closed to tourists until the early 1990s, Mustang is like a whole different world. Arid hillsides, Buddhist monasteries and another language welcome us to this forbidden land. Formerly known as the Kingdom of Lo, Mustang was its own kingdom until Nepal annexed it in the 18th century. The region is an important trading route from India to Tibet, operating as a restricted, demilitarized zone until 1992 and maintaining its own monarchy until 2008.


Remote singletrack, interspersed with a rough dirt road, leads us through hidden villages and over 4,000-metre passes. The desert landscape is beautiful yet harsh; the winds batter us and dust clogs every orifice even as cool air descending off the distant Annapurna range brings a slight chill to the air. The Tibetan border is visible in the distance.


Previously known as the Kingdom of Lo, the traditional Upper Mustang region comprises northern two-thirds of the present-day Mustang district. Mustang is a remote semi-independent Tibetan Kingdom north of the Annapurna Mountain and Dhaulagiri Mountains and is one of the last bastions of undisturbed Tibetan culture.


Its history dated back to 15th century where it is considered to be strategic location of and Mustang control over the trade between the Himalayas and India. Definitely, it confines some pristine natural beauty, along with typical Nepalese remote lifestyle. And it is one of the off beaten trekking trails of Nepal.


At the end of the 18th century the kingdom was annexed by Nepal. Though still recognized by many Mustang residents, the monarchy officially ceased to exist from 2008 with the order of Government of Nepal.


Lo once served as an important route for crossing the Himalaya between Tibet and Nepal where many of the old salt caravans passed through. Meanwhile traveling to Tibet from this part of Nepal was bit ideal during those times. You find yourself amidst narrow alleys, township, monasteries, traditional customs, rich culture, arid landscape and more in upper mustang.


If you are lucky enough, you might as well visit the former king of Mustang and his 4-storey high palace. Tibetan-Buddhist monasteries such as Thugchen Gompa, Amchi Museum, Amchi School (traditional medicinal school) and the caves at Garphu add to the mystique magnetism of Mustang.


Basically, trekking on the path of upper mustang can be considered as the religious and spiritual tours of Nepal. The route entails traveling across desert-like landscape, barren ridges, deep canyons, eroded cliffs and moraine valleys against continuous strong winds.


You need to have permission before entering the upper mustang. And Just to make your tour more relax and hassle-free, there is an option for the tailor-made trip, where you could design your trip.


Nevertheless, the forbidden kingdom never fails to charm visitors from all over the world with its picturesque views of the Himalayas and high Tibetan plateau, warm hospitality of Thakalis & Goring communities, ecological diversity, primitive villages, cave hermitages, ancient chortans, monasteries and arid desert like savannah. Meanwhile, along with upper mustang, we have covered 7 hidden trek of Nepal that you probably never heard of.


A leading adventure & tour operator in the Himalayas since 1992, Himalayan Glacier Adventure & Travel Company is the #1 guiding adventure travel company on Mount Everest Base Camp and beyond with 98% success rate. Each of our holidays is truly a tailor-made package which we design for all ages, groups, families & solo travelers.


Beyond the 8,000-meter ranges - Annapurna and Dhaulagiri - near the Tibetan (Chinese) border and inside Nepal lies the forbidden Kingdom of Mustang. Mustang stretches deep into the Tibetan plateau. Technically, it is no more a kingdom. In 2008, Nepal abolished the Mustang's monarchy.


Ame Pal founded the Kingdom of Lo (Upper Mustang) in 1380 and built Lo Manthang, a walled city that served as its capital. Lo means south in the Tibetan dialect. The most recent King of Mustang retraced his lineage 25 generations back to Ame Pal.


Even before 1850, Nepal imported rock salt, wool, powdered gold, horses, and yaks from Tibet and exported grain, spices, knives, fabric, and handicrafts. Among these, rock salt was the most important import. Mustang provided the easiest path to Tibet. Thus, this trade route served as a link between Tibet and Nepal. When transportation improved, iodized salt from India entered Nepal, gradually diminishing this trek route.






Mustang has desert-like vegetation, which is most unique in the whole of Nepal. The desert landscape looks red, and through its ocher land flows the Kali Gandaki. Due to altitude, the wind blows consistently throughout the day, and, as a result, you can find red-colored cliffs here. The rocky highlands provide opportunities for rock climbing.






Lo Manthang invested the wealth Lo generated as a salt trade route in Buddhist art and artifacts. Hence, Mustang is home to the most revered and ancient Buddhist monuments. The remoteness of Mustang protected these gompas (monasteries) from modern influences.






The local population, with beliefs in traditional Tibetan culture, still uses two earthen gompas - Thubchen and Jamba. Jamba is known to contain at least 1,500 mandalas (Buddhist spiritual diagrams) and is the only monastery entirely painted with these types of mandalas.






Mustang is also known for its mysterious sky caves - around 10,000 in number. These caves are dug into the cliffs of the mountains. Researchers have conducted several kinds of research on these caves, but experts are still unsure who built these caves and or for what purpose.






From some of these caves, valuable Buddhist paintings, manuscripts, and artifacts, along with mummified human bodies, have been excavated. These sky caves have been featured on National Geographic, and archeological studies are ongoing.


In addition to monasteries, you can enjoy the views of ancient palaces in Mustang. The five-storied Lo Manthang Palace, constructed in 1442, and painted with white lime, is the main palace. The wall around the palace used to act as a fortress. There are three monasteries, twelve chortens, and a mani wall near the palace. The fortress walls have 60 spouts and 25 doors.


Mustang is the second least populated district in Nepal after the neighboring Manang district. The locals are engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry. Mustang forms a part of the Annapurna Conservation Area and is divided into four geographical regions - Thak Sastsae, Panchgaon, Barago, and Lo Tsho Dyun. The Thakali, Tamang, Bhotia (Tibetan), and Lopa (Bista and Gurung) ethnicities call Mustang their home. Currently, Lo Manthang is the only walled town in the whole of Nepal.






The recent changes have been rapid. The mud houses are being replaced with concrete structures. The hotels are equipped with television sets. Mustang is internet-connected, and the local shops carry a range of items, from cigarettes to electronic goods.


From Pokhara, you can either fly to Jomsom or take a public bus. You can also rent a jeep if you wish. After you get to Jomsom, you need to trek to Kagbeni - the gateway to the upper Mustang. From Kagbeni, you will hike north to get to the upper Mustang.






Discovery World Trekking has been conducting treks to the Upper Mustang for over a decade. Call/Viber/WhatsApp at 977-9840055491 or email [email protected] to book your next trek to the mysterious Mustang.


Paul has an extensive experience in the tourism industry. Through his blogs, he shares his deep knowledge about the stunning trek regions in Nepal, inspiring trekkers worldwide to explore these regions and enrich their lives. In addition to geography, his writings delve into the human side of the trek regions, including culture, traditions, religions, and etiquette, offering a comprehensive and enriching perspective on the Himalayan trekking and expedition experience.


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Discovery World Trekking is the trademark name of Discovery World Trekking Pvt. Ltd. Our name, logo, and slogan are registered in Nepal. Our Nepal Tourism Board trekking and travel company license number is 1495.

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