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Thanks, Paul. I was actually inspired to update this piece after seeing your photo in the Chronicle the other day leading a tour of local Italian establishments. I find that Italian food is inherently an enjoyable subject.
Thank you for writing such an authoritative article on the history of Italian dining in Houston. Having grown up in Houston in the 60's and 70's, this was a fantastic trip down memory lane and an important reminder of our city's culinary history.
Thank you,I enjoyed this article immensely, after meeting Carlo Molinaro, owner/chef of La Trattoria for 30 years.
Mr. Molinaro visited my fine art photography studio, La Donna Foto, and told me many stories of being in the restaurant business, all over the world. He told me that President George Bush was a frequent diner at La Trattoria, as well as other well-heeled patrons. Many interesting chef stories that date back to the 1960s.
As a Houstonian and international photographer, I can appreciate the history that the Italian culture has played in shaping the palate.
I'm curious about that IWW French and Italian Restaurant from 1906. I wonder if it was associated with the Industrial Workers of the World, the international union also known as the "Wobblies."
I certainly miss Pino's, I used to eat there a lot in the late 90s, and used to run into Marvin Zindler there a lot, it was his favorite restaurant. I always knew it was clean and had no slime in the ice machine. I also miss Doyle's, which despite the Irish name, was an old school red sauce Italian place in Garden Oaks from 1954-2019. It and Buon Appetito, in an old house on Holcombe down in the Medical Center, both felt like they could be right out of a mafia movie like Goodfellas.
An interesting walk through history. I would love to learn more about the details of locals not eating shrimp back in 1915. Also, if Houston didn't have pizza until Vallian's introduced it in 1955, who were Mama Ninfa and her husband selling their pizza dough to in 1948? I see Damian's come up several times, they were so great in the late 80s-early 90s, so much more sophisticated Italian food than I had ever eaten before, but now unfortunately the food they serve would have been passe when they opened in '85. Would also like to tip my hat to two old-school Italian restaurants we lost in the last few years that I always felt could have been from scenes out of Goodfellas: Buon Appetito in a really old house on Holcombe, and Doyle's in Oak Forest. Don't know when Buon Appetito opened, but Doyle's had been in the same place since 1957 when it closed in 2019.
Mike, having moved away seven + years ago, I am not up-to-date on the Houston Food Scene any more.
I was reading something about a Houston Italian restaurant and got curious about the history of Italian food in Houston. Then with a quick Google search, I "tripped" over your blog post, here, that answered every question I had and more.
Great job!
I question the statement in the article about not that many people eating shrimp before 1906. Where did that information come from? The Dunbar Company of New Orleans started canning shrimp for shipment nationwide in 1867. Here's a menu from 1891 at a fancy restaurant in New Jersey with shrimp on the menu:
Mark, that was meant in reference mostly to the locals and in the region, which I probably should have specified. That information comes from the book, "The Italian Texas" Maguire, Jack, ed. I had been thinking about that entry recently, coincidentally, as I have going through historic menus also from the CIA and other collections for a book project. Shrimp was eaten else where if not to the extent later, and much less so here. I haven't had luck with finding any menus from the Houston area from that early, though.
Also, the latest version of this post is at:
-italian-restaurant-history.html
I need to fix that the 1906 is out of chronological order. Thanks.
Mike
As World War II wound down, Benito Mussolini scrambled, unsuccessfully, to outrun his enemies. After they captured and killed him, his body was subjected to a strange journey that lasted for more than a decade.
In September 1943, Nazi paratroopers staged a daring commando raid that rescued Mussolini from the Apennine Mountain ski resort where he was being detained. Hitler installed Mussolini as the figurehead of the Social Republic of Italy (known informally as the Republic of Salo), a Nazi puppet state in German-occupied northern Italy.
Mussolini stormed out of the palace and fled Milan with his 33-year-old mistress, Clara Petacci, in the 1939 Alfa Romeo sports car he had bought as a gift for his girlfriend. The following day, the pair joined a convoy of fellow fascists and German soldiers heading north toward Lake Como and the border with Switzerland.
Mussolini donned a German Luftwaffe helmet and overcoat, but the disguise did little to save him when partisans stopped the convoy at the lakeside town of Dongo on April 27. For 20 years, Mussolini had built a cult of personality with his image emblazoned on posters and newspapers. Now, the familiarity of his distinctive shaved head and granite jaw, even in disguise, did him in.
The partisans seized Mussolini and Petacci. Fearing that the Nazis would again try to liberate the dictator, the partisans hid the pair in a remote farmhouse for the night. The following day, Mussolini and Petacci were removed from the house and driven to the small village of Giulino di Mezzegra on the shores of Lake Como. They were ordered to stand in front of a stone wall at the entrance to Villa Belmonte where both were executed by machine gun fire. The identity of the triggerman remains a point of contention, but it was likely communist partisan commander Walter Audisio.
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