Gerard,
You won’t generally see a 12V SLA near 13.8V unless it is connected to a trickle/float charger.
For a 12V SLA that has been sitting idle, an open circuit voltage of 12.7V+ is perfectly acceptable (2.12V+ per cell).
A voltage below 12.6V (approx 2.07V per cell) will lead to sulphation (which is bad!).
Typical charging voltage would be 13.7V for trickle/float charge, or 14.7V for cyclic use.
Once fully charged, and disconnected from the charger, the battery will soon drop to around 13.2V-13.4V, and over time return to about 12.7V.
The voltages above are based on 25°C ambient – slightly higher charge voltages at lower temps.
So everything is fine, and I wouldn’t rush to charge them. If you are concerned enough, you could top them up a bit through say a 4.7 ohm to 27 ohm resistor from a 15V-16V power supply for a few hours to a day. But don’t overcharge, as that is bad too.
There should be a date code stamped on the battery – typically YYMM or YYMMDD format. Ideally you don’t want to buy a new battery that has been on the shelf more than about 6 months (maybe 12 max). Even less in a hot climate/environment, as that increases the self discharge rate.
To actually test a battery is in good nick, you need to measure the internal resistance – or better, run an actual load test (after charging).
Kean
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Gerard,
You won’t generally see a 12V SLA near 13.8V unless it is connected to a trickle/float charger.
For a 12V SLA that has been sitting idle, an open circuit voltage of 12.7V+ is perfectly acceptable (2.12V+ per cell).
A voltage below 12.6V (approx 2.07V per cell) will lead to sulphation (which is bad!).
Typical charging voltage would be 13.7V for trickle/float charge, or 14.7V for cyclic use.
Once fully charged, and disconnected from the charger, the battery will soon drop to around 13.2V-13.4V, and over time return to about 12.7V.
The voltages above are based on 25°C ambient – slightly higher charge voltages at lower temps.
So everything is fine, and I wouldn’t rush to charge them. If you are concerned enough, you could top them up a bit through say a 4.7 ohm to 27 ohm resistor from a 15V-16V power supply for a few hours to a day. But don’t overcharge, as that is bad too.
There should be a date code stamped on the battery – typically YYMM or YYMMDD format. Ideally you don’t want to buy a new battery that has been on the shelf more than about 6 months (maybe 12 max). Even less in a hot climate/environment, as that increases the self discharge rate.
To actually test a battery is in good nick, you need to measure the internal resistance – or better, run an actual load test (after charging).
Kean
Depends on the specific battery and trickle current whether the charger will be a problem (i.e. overcharging). If it does switch to trickle mode, then it should be OK – just measure the voltage occasionally to ensure it is no more than about 13.8V (or less than 12.7V). Unlike some other battery technologies (especially Lithium), SLAs prefer to be kept full while in storage.
I’ve got a bunch of 5 year old SLA batteries, which I just happened to be testing last week. The ones that were in a UPS, and thus were on constant charge, are mostly still good - a few now have high internal resistances, all have lost capacity. Others that I left on the shelf and forgot to charge occasionally are now pretty much stuffed.
Kean
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