Help!!!! Filter Pump won't start
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trax
Aug 24, 2011, 12:36:02 PM8/24/11
to Swimming Pools
We need techican help....
Polaris booster pump stopped working. It was replaced with a new
pump. We started the filter pump for about 2 to 3 hours than tried
polaris and everything was working great. The next day the filter
pump would not turn on. It was hot and would only hum. We checked
connection and everything seems fine.
The filter pump is only 2 years old. We purchased a new filter pump
in 9/2009. According to the place we bought it ('Leslie's Pool
Service") it is out of warranty and the problem may not be the pump.
Please help. We would rather not purchase another pump, but we are
not thrilled about having a techican come out and ending up having to
purchase another pump anyway.
Thank,
Polaris booster pump stopped working. It was replaced with a new
pump. We started the filter pump for about 2 to 3 hours than tried
polaris and everything was working great. The next day the filter
pump would not turn on. It was hot and would only hum. We checked
connection and everything seems fine.
The filter pump is only 2 years old. We purchased a new filter pump
in 9/2009. According to the place we bought it ('Leslie's Pool
Service") it is out of warranty and the problem may not be the pump.
Please help. We would rather not purchase another pump, but we are
not thrilled about having a techican come out and ending up having to
purchase another pump anyway.
Thank,
Propools
Aug 24, 2011, 1:25:35 PM8/24/11
to Swimming Pools
Your post is a bit confusing so is it the polaris pump that quit
working or the filter pump?
1. The motor problem may be the capacitor on the motor which can be
replaced.
2. I presume that these 2 pumps are not running on extension cords?
3. Motors have a manufacturer's warranty of usually just 1 year.
working or the filter pump?
1. The motor problem may be the capacitor on the motor which can be
replaced.
2. I presume that these 2 pumps are not running on extension cords?
3. Motors have a manufacturer's warranty of usually just 1 year.
trax
Aug 24, 2011, 10:09:36 PM8/24/11
to Swimming Pools
Thank you for your response. The Polaris booster pump went out a few
days ago. We had it replaced and worked fine (both pumps were
working) for 1 day, then the filter pump stopped working. When you
turn it on, it just hums.....
days ago. We had it replaced and worked fine (both pumps were
working) for 1 day, then the filter pump stopped working. When you
turn it on, it just hums.....
Propools
Aug 25, 2011, 9:38:48 AM8/25/11
to swimmin...@googlegroups.com
It seems a bit odd that the Polaris pump would go out, you replace it, then the filter pump goes out.
This just does not happen on a usual basis.
This makes me wonder about the wire size going to both of the motors.
The issue most likely could be one of a few or combination of a few things:
- Capacitor has gone bad
- Wiring in the motor is "burned up"
- Electric switch in the motor has gone out.
- Bearings could be bad (but you would have heard the pump making a lot of noise)
You can have the motor taken to an electrical motor repair shop or just buy a new one.
If you'd like feel free to contact us and we try to help you.
Regards,
Brian Lane
Propools.com
888-352-7582
www.propools.com
tlamb...@yahoo.com
Aug 26, 2011, 1:10:08 AM8/26/11
to Swimming Pools
If you could, please send a link or sketch of the schematic of your
pumping arrangement with pipe diameters, run lengths, etc. Dual and
multiple pumping configurations require additional engineering
considerations to prevent pumps from fighting one another (basically
robbing water from one another) and to prevent sort circuiting water
backward through any pump that may not be working. I generally do not
like to specify pumps in parallel or series because even with careful
forethought such configurations can still present problems including
loss of prime & melted / leaking adjacent piping due to pump
overheating after a non-prime or no-flow situation. This is a
strategy I've seen used and recommend for dual (or multiple) pumps in
parallel drawing from the same suction line or manifold. First, all
the pumps should be identical -- same impeller and motor, etc. They
should be plumbed so they are hydraulically balanced on the suction
side and on the discharge side. Each pump discharge will need its own
check valve (normally mounted to flow vertically upward). Somewhere
downstream of all pumps, normally after the filter but prior to
chemical injection, tap X# of 1/4" or 3/8" tubing lines (X# = number
of pumps in parallel) and route each line to flow to a tap on each
pump discharge standpipe upstream of (prior to) the check valve. This
will encourage the working pump(s) to prime a non-prime pump. Since
you are installing check valves which may retain an entrapment vacuum
on the suction line a Safety Vacuum Release System (SVRS) device
should be installed on the shared suction line / manifold, especially
if a single drain sump. Dual pumps in series would require a bit more
info -- what is this booster pump for (chemical injection?). Having a
separate suction line from the main drain sump for each pump would be
a better engineered pumping configuration, but each pump suction may
require its own SVRS even without check valves. Terry Lambert PE,
tlamb...@yahoo.com.
pumping arrangement with pipe diameters, run lengths, etc. Dual and
multiple pumping configurations require additional engineering
considerations to prevent pumps from fighting one another (basically
robbing water from one another) and to prevent sort circuiting water
backward through any pump that may not be working. I generally do not
like to specify pumps in parallel or series because even with careful
forethought such configurations can still present problems including
loss of prime & melted / leaking adjacent piping due to pump
overheating after a non-prime or no-flow situation. This is a
strategy I've seen used and recommend for dual (or multiple) pumps in
parallel drawing from the same suction line or manifold. First, all
the pumps should be identical -- same impeller and motor, etc. They
should be plumbed so they are hydraulically balanced on the suction
side and on the discharge side. Each pump discharge will need its own
check valve (normally mounted to flow vertically upward). Somewhere
downstream of all pumps, normally after the filter but prior to
chemical injection, tap X# of 1/4" or 3/8" tubing lines (X# = number
of pumps in parallel) and route each line to flow to a tap on each
pump discharge standpipe upstream of (prior to) the check valve. This
will encourage the working pump(s) to prime a non-prime pump. Since
you are installing check valves which may retain an entrapment vacuum
on the suction line a Safety Vacuum Release System (SVRS) device
should be installed on the shared suction line / manifold, especially
if a single drain sump. Dual pumps in series would require a bit more
info -- what is this booster pump for (chemical injection?). Having a
separate suction line from the main drain sump for each pump would be
a better engineered pumping configuration, but each pump suction may
require its own SVRS even without check valves. Terry Lambert PE,
tlamb...@yahoo.com.
Propools
Aug 26, 2011, 10:04:35 AM8/26/11
to swimmin...@googlegroups.com
[tlamb...@yahoo.com]
"pumps in parallel or series because even with careful forethought such configurations can still present problems including loss of prime & melted / leaking adjacent piping due to pump overheating after a non-prime or no-flow situation."
In all my years I have never seen what you describe happening.
"First, all the pumps should be identical -- same impeller and motor, etc. They should be plumbed so they are hydraulically balanced on the suction side and on the discharge side."
One of the pumps is for the filtration system and the other seems to be a booster pump for the cleaner. These booster pumps do not have the hydraulic lift like a filter pump; as they use the return side water after the filter to supply the water for the cleaner. And these cleaner lines are usually dedicated lines which go directly from the booster pump to the pool cleaner line return. Therefore it's impossible and not even necessary if you could to hydraulically balance these pumps' suction and discharge side.
There's no need for a return side check valve if the filter system is above water grade level.
Here. Let me share with you a couple of links, which depict some very good pool filter system plumbing.
Propools
tlamb...@yahoo.com
Aug 28, 2011, 6:27:35 AM8/28/11
to Swimming Pools
Great pics, labeling and layout. I now understand the situation
better. My post was not directed to booster pumps or pumps in series
-- I was describing another configuration (dual or multiple main
recirc pumps which do need discharge side check valves) that I thought
may give some insight into rectifying this situation. I have to say I
like your configuration #2 better with the what may be a Y tee to the
booster pump and the placement of the 3 way jandy valve helping to
divert water toward the booster pump, actually almost favoring the
booster pump. Had I commented on pumps in series specifically I would
have stated that the booster pump should be of a lesser output
capacity than the main recirc pump and plumped with the least
resistance in the piping as possible to encourage flow into it and
incorporating a bypass valve or flow restricter to keep it primed.
The booster pump may have caused a temporary vacuum lock or loss of
prime on the main pump for some reason (possibly drawing in air from
the skimmer or a suction side leak, and the valve positioning on the
suction side of the main pump may have had some contributing effect).
The main recirc pump should be tried again with and without the
booster pump as it still may be just fine. I would suggest to start
the main pump first prior to the booster pump to get the flow going
and always stop the booster pump before the main pump. In Florida
commercial applications each pump would draw suction from a shared or
separate feature gravity fed collector tank from the pool shell main
drain sumps (or dedicated feature drain sumps to the feature collector
tank) with their own unique suction piping. This avoids pumps
fighting each other.
> 1.http://www.propools.com/plumbing.php
> 2.http://www.propools.com/plumbing_2.php
>
> Regards,
> Propools
better. My post was not directed to booster pumps or pumps in series
-- I was describing another configuration (dual or multiple main
recirc pumps which do need discharge side check valves) that I thought
may give some insight into rectifying this situation. I have to say I
like your configuration #2 better with the what may be a Y tee to the
booster pump and the placement of the 3 way jandy valve helping to
divert water toward the booster pump, actually almost favoring the
booster pump. Had I commented on pumps in series specifically I would
have stated that the booster pump should be of a lesser output
capacity than the main recirc pump and plumped with the least
resistance in the piping as possible to encourage flow into it and
incorporating a bypass valve or flow restricter to keep it primed.
The booster pump may have caused a temporary vacuum lock or loss of
prime on the main pump for some reason (possibly drawing in air from
the skimmer or a suction side leak, and the valve positioning on the
suction side of the main pump may have had some contributing effect).
The main recirc pump should be tried again with and without the
booster pump as it still may be just fine. I would suggest to start
the main pump first prior to the booster pump to get the flow going
and always stop the booster pump before the main pump. In Florida
commercial applications each pump would draw suction from a shared or
separate feature gravity fed collector tank from the pool shell main
drain sumps (or dedicated feature drain sumps to the feature collector
tank) with their own unique suction piping. This avoids pumps
fighting each other.
> 2.http://www.propools.com/plumbing_2.php
>
> Regards,
> Propools
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