Erik,
Most builders applied multiple coats of marine varnish, like Epifanes Clear, to the deck and other areas where the cedar strips were visible through the S-glass. As the hull is the first item that is glassed with S-glass and it is a large surface, there is the chance of overworking the epoxy when wetting out the glass, resulting in a cloudy or streaky glass layup. That happened on USA020, so for appearances, I painted the topsides with Epifanes Two-Part Polyurethane Marine paint. In your case, stripping or sanding down the hull to remove the automotive paint and clear coat will be a great deal of work with little benefit if the glass finish over the cedar strips is cloudy. I recommend the Epifanes or other marine two part paints if you decide to go that route. They hold up well to abuse and you can achieve a mirror finish with wet sanding several coats. Best of luck with your repairs.
Bill Scheumann
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 18, 2021, at 2:57 PM, Erik Schmalz <
thist...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Home again from my usual 6wks at the lake. I didn’t get as much time on the Swift as I’d have liked, but I did make some progress in the last week. Mostly, I need to get less scared of it, which is hard when I’m out there by myself.
>
> In any case, now that I’m home, before I put it to sleep for the season, I want to do a little work on it. I need to fill some unused holes, make the jib track move look better, and I’d like to better fair a few things. If I get really ambitious, I might try to get rid of some of the hull paint. I’d prefer showing off more wood (wait…that might have come out wrong…).
>
> This whole boat was sprayed with automotive clear coat before hardware was added. The finish is hard and shiny, and that’s great, but the more little damage/fixes get done, the worse it looks, so what’s the “normal” way of covering the boat? I’m 100% confutable with paint and varnish from classic wooden boats, but nothing about the Swift Solo seems standard, so I figure I should ask.
>
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