Sudarshan Style Name

[Heinz Francis]

WEWERE a group of eleven, four French and seven Indian climbers. After a long and tiring rail journey the bus was a luxury. We halted at Tehri to finish the last of the delicious mangoes. We saw Col Sandhu going in the opposite direction in a jeep. Huber and I shouted out to him but to no avail. Dejected we stood. Quickly we both turned to the bus to devour another basket of mangoes we were carrying for Col Sandhu, and laughed at our instant mutual intuition. Well mountaineers think alike all over the world! We knew that the Swetvarn Indo-French Expedition would get on well!

Why this nationality mix? It all started two years ago. Jean Odier visited Bombay for training and decided to trek with us around Bombay in the rains. We all wondered at this Frenchman who preferred to roam around in the mud instead of the exotic streets of Paris. But an idea was born. Though two of his brothers and friends could join us, it was ironic that he could not.

The curtain-raiser was the arrival of the French. At the airport I was ready with those hard earned certificates which the Indian customs would have loved to stamp all over. But Bernard, Hubert and Jacques with oui, non, monsieur, a mixture of expertise and innocence and shrugging of the shoulders were out without any help from me at all ! I was impressed. All the planning had been done at Bombay. Majority of the food and equipment was ready and packed. We added the French gear and the high-altitude food and were ready to depart.

We had three major difficulties. The last was of course climbing the Sudarshan Parbat. But the first could have made us a non-starter. At the railway station on 1 May to our surprise we were informed that our tickets were not valid and we had no seats on this packed train. Kanu excels in such situations. A wave of the hands, little hush-hush talks and soon we were comfortably settled. It was time after all for the Indian trick!

The history of Sudarshan is brief though spread over 19 years. It was attempted by 5 expeditions. Mostly by the west ridge and once by the south ridge. The last attempt was in 1979 by the Himalayan Association, Calcutta. They reached high on the west ridge. After the study of the pictures and other materials we decided to opt for the unseen and unknown east ridge exactly on the opposite side. It is steeper and more icy. But it offered a higher camp site. And if the mountain remained quiet, as it did, it would be a hard but safe climb. But for attaining the base of the east ridge, we had to circumvent the mountain; coming from the northwest and going over some very bad moraine to the east. Much against the local advice we decided to try that.

Anyone climbing in the Gangotri area cannot but be impressed by the mythology. Sudarshan is a weapon which Lord Krishna or Vishnu holds in his hand. It is released in the ultimate crisis. When released the victory is certain. The whole area throbs with many such mythological tales. The other peaks in Swetvarn Bamak were named according to these stories.1 We drank a toast in holy tea and started off.

At Gaumukh the road ends for the pilgrims. Gangotri glacier showed its teeth in a full measure. The track went over moraines of the type to put anyone in problems. We turned east to enter the Raktavarn Bamak. It lived up to its name. Kami discovered a gully which avoided a long scree slope. We were established on the 12 May on a huge open plateau, covered with snow. We were 2 km ahead of the usual camp site near Thelu Bamak and 1 km before the turning into the Swetvarn Bamak. Except four, all other porters were discharged.

On 14 May we had the first look at the entrance to the Swetvarn. At once we realized why the local people had advised us against it. A gigantic moraine slope followed by a series of steps in the glacier faced us. The route was non-existent and the slope was continuously bombarded by loose stones. The latter half was snow-covered. A long ridge ultimately led to the centre of the Bamak. Here it divided in two sections. We established ABC here at 5400 m. It was a most unpleasant and horrid climb to ABC. And we had to repeat it many times. Slowly ABC was well stocked. Then we did not have to tread on this route. But kudos to Bernard. He courageously went down once to BC to rest and shave !

On 19 May, Hubert made a solo ascent. From ABC he proceeded on to the western glacier and climbed the snow-slopes to reach the ridge connecting Saife with Koteshwar I. At exactly 8.50 a.m. he was on the top to wave to Alain and Jacques on Koteshwar I.

Three of us were proceeding to Camp 1 on the glacier below. We saw Hubert begin to ski from the summit of Saife at 9 a.m. In 2 minutes he was 100 ft lower and in the process caused a giant avalanche. It was scary for him as well as for us. Slowly after 15 agonizing minutes the small dot moved. He removed his skis and climbed down. He came out of the line of the avalanche debris. We were frantically waving hands to guide him to avoid the avalanche route. After 50 minutes he was with us sharing his charmed existence. Our reunion at ABC with the Koteshwar party was joyous. They had given him up for dead.

Saife was again climbed on 30 May by Kanu, Danthi and Kami. They had established a camp at the foot of the ridge, then followed the same route to the summit, leisurely watching the climbers progressing on the nearby Sudarshan Parbat.

The third time this peak received a blitzkrieg attack. On 7 June Alain and Jacques left ABC at 4 a.m. and reached the summit at 6.30 a.m. and were back in the camp for breakfast at 8.30 a.m.! A terrific speed even for a well acclimatized party. Thus the peak had three very different styled ascents. All the time while it was climbed some other climb was always in progress!

This is a peak south of Koteshwar I. On 24 May Vijay, Kami, Nawang and I started from ABC to reach the Koteshwar col by 9.30 a.m. We proceeded on loose snow and to the final 150 m section of the rocks. It was an enjoyable climb. But one had to be careful for a fall would lead down to the glacier. At 10.30 a.m. we were on the narrow top amazed at the magnificent panorama it unfolded. A few rappels and we were back at ABC.

This peak at the centre of Swetvarn Bamak was the first to stop our line of successes. It has three ridges. The north joins Chaturbhuj, the southwest joins Sudarshan while the southeast falls between the two branches of the Swetvarn. The north and southwest ridges were found to be too sharp. On 25 May, Lakhpa, Kanu, Danthi and Jacques left early from Camp 1 (w). The ridge gradually rose to its full height. They slowly negotiated the sharp snow-ridge, always remaining on the east. But 100 m below the top, the ridge became razor-sharp and corniced. A 300 m fall was under the thin icy crust. Even if this was crossed at great danger, the slope ahead was of verglas and rose almost vertically. It was impossible to go further. After various observations later on too, no route seemed feasible over this or the other ridges.

With the acclimatization and the observations we had made, it was time to tackle our ennemi redoutable. As we look up from ABC, this huge mountain stands up majestically and in a stupendous shape. The east ridge falls steeply from its summit to touch the glacier floor at 5790 m. In portions it looks very sharp and steep. Our first move was to establish a Camp 1 (w) at the foot of the ridge. This was done after crossing heavily crevassed ground. On 21 May, Hubert and Alain started a climb on the rotten rocks at the bottom of the east ridge. After a series of very bad pitches they hit the upper snow. We could see them all along on this climb. They anchored a fixed rope from the ridge to Camp 1 (w). Next day we jumared up the fixed rope to the col on the ridge. It was a panting and breathless affair. The scenery, when one could spare a glance for it, was monumental. Dripping precipices soared for a 300 m or more on the Sudarshan slope with a mighty ice-and-snow rampart above that.

Proceeding on the ridge, came a mixed terrain of rock and snow. Ahead was the crux of the climb. A narrow ice-ridge which connected the east ridge to the main massif. It was only about 20 m in length. One had to traverse it precariously on the southern wall. Below was a direct fall of at least 600 m to the glacier. Alain and Hubert negotiated this patch with great expertise and care. It took them a thoroughly exhausting day. But when they accomplished this and returned, the deed, too was done. The route was opened with a fixed rope. Ahead was a very steep ice and snow slope leading to a small plateau above the north ice-face of Sudarshan. Once there, the route should be simpler. It was that satisfying moment that comes in any big venture when at last you have gone too far to turn back.

On 27 May it was decided to attempt Sudarshan Parbat from Camp 1 (w). Hubert and myself shared a tent and offered to wake up others at a little past midnight. The day died and the stars came out, peering frostily through the darkening canopy of the evening sky. The snow froze in its ruts. To keep the time proved to be unexpectedly difficult. During the anxious night the hours crept like ghosts around the luminous dial of my watch and sleep totally eluded me. At 1 a.m. Hubert and I roused ourselves and in the effort to wake the others let forth such a chorus of yells that the ice-cliff above might have been tempted to respond in its own fashion. After a while all were ready but the sky was none too clear. The party left at 4 a.m. But by the time they reached the crux it was 10 a.m. The wind speed was high and the visibility became poor. The snow was too soft and the terrain dangerous. It was the east ridge after all. We all gathered back at the camp and went down to ABC for a rest.

On 29 May a strong well-rested party left for Camp 1 (w) for a renewed bid on Sudarshan. After a leisurely lunch at the Camp 1 (w) we decided to move the camp 300 m higher for one night. Nawang and I went up to this Assault Camp to help in whatever manner we could. Climbing in the evening on such steep soft slopes was rather exhausting. A small platform was cut out on the steep slope to pitch tents. Heart and lungs pounded alarmingly and a deadly fatigue encased the limbs as though one was working on a planet of abnormal gravity. By the time tents were up, Nawang and I went down to Camp 1 (w) to wait for their return.

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