Air box removal.
steven michaeli
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MTucker
power actually with an air box (sometimes stock boxed
need to be opened up) bcause they provide a source of
still or stable air. Especially at low speed where the
engine is not pulling high volumes of air through the
direct pods the air box helps provides initial
unrestricted air. (already through the filter) The air
box also draws air through a cleaner route (under seat
or behind side plates) and pods tend to get dirty very
quickly then become restrictive. All that said, they
are used frequently in road racing where the
enviroment is pretty clean and rpms constantly high.
There is also opinions that the aerodynamics also
effects pods more because the air entering is unstable
(pressure varies) versus air boxes with give the
incoming air a chance to become stable. If you look
closely at current factory race bikes dirt or road
race they all have air boxes. On a street bike rain
can also be a problem soaking and clogging pods. I
would modify the stock air box before using pods.
--- steven michaeli <stevenm...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hey all, I'm thinking about removing my airbox and
> putting K&N individual filters on each throttle
> body. My thoughts: I want to make room for a hi/lo
> horn pair (I will be heard!), I want a little
> induction noise, I think it will save me a few
> ounces, and I like a little daylight around the
> motor.
> I remember someone saying you need the airbox to
> keep induction temps low - will it really make that
> much of a difference. My bike is a 2006 so it has
> fuel injection. I live in Tampa and use the bike for
> most of my daily transportation and do a trip to St.
> Louis and back each summer. I put about 11k miles
> each year. I plan on putting on an FMF exhaust in a
> few months.
> Your thoughts?
> mccorpsman
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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Steve Aronson
wiring harness kits, fuse blocks etc..
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html#modulators
Steve
Jason H
> Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 06:54:18 -0800
> From: mtuck...@yahoo.com
> Subject: [SV/DL Riders] Re: Air box removal.
> To: sv-dl-...@googlegroups.com
Jim Stewart
racebikes, I guess, but bad for street riding.
If you want to run pods, you might ask Zoran about them. But he runs flatslides
on all his racebikes, I believe...
-js
Jim Stewart
but the kit is a much easier way to go.
-js
Steve Aronson
> The prewired headlight relay is a good kit. I'd wire my own for 1/3 the
price,
> but the kit is a much easier way to go.
Yeah, I wire all my own stuff too. I like those small relays though, I
haven't seen them in the local auto stores here. Also those H4 male and
female sockets are nice and I haven't seen them locally either. Saves
people from cutting into their wiring harnesses. I've already cut into mine
for a Signal Dynamics modulator so it wouldn't save me anything, but if I'd
known about those sockets, I would've used them instead of cutting the
wires.
My battery died a couple of days ago. I accidentally turned on the infamous
parking light and didn't notice it for a long time. I charged the battery
back up and it holds a 12.8V charge but it fails under any load at all, it
must have an internal short now. So, I looked around and ended up getting
another one from Batteries Plus again, same as 3 years ago. Their price
went up from $42 or so to $65, sheesh. He gave it to me for $55, so they
are negotiable I guess. I noticed that walmart carries motorcycle batteries
now and has the ones for the second gen SV but not the first. Only $50 too.
I saw some E.B.C. SV batteries on ebay for $44 shipped from a seller with a
lot of good feedback, but I didn't try them. I like to put a voltmeter on
the battery before I buy it, unless it ships with separate acid packs like
the Yuasa.
Steve
Jim Stewart
> My battery died a couple of days ago. I accidentally turned on the infamous
> parking light and didn't notice it for a long time.
That's why I bypassed the parking light position on my bike. I can live without
a parking light...
-js
Steve Aronson
> Steve Aronson wrote:
>
> > My battery died a couple of days ago. I accidentally turned on the
infamous
> > parking light and didn't notice it for a long time.
>
> That's why I bypassed the parking light position on my bike. I can live
without
> a parking light...
Even worse, my accessory relay trips from the tail light/ parking light
circuit, so my heated grips were on high the whole time the bike was parked
too. That wouldn't have ordinarily happened except for that rare cold snap
we had that night.
So much for global warming ;)
Steve
Danger is my middle name
I recommend that you leave it alone, but I don't think that induction
temps are a concern.
There are waves of energy that get pushed back into the airbox.
Airboxes are sized so that certain frequencies of waves (the ones that
are causing problems on the dyno) cancel themselves out: the high
energy meets the low energy causing interference: just like noise
cancelling headphones. This cancelation stabilizes the air, stable
air isn't being pushed out, so more air gets into the engine. These
waves of energy are also what causes induction noise, but the airbox
design is actually meant to improve performance where the waves would
hurt it; the quiter noise is just a side effect.
So what do individual filters do? They also cancel out waves at
frequencies that have a wavelength of 2X the distance between the
walls in the throttle body, unfortunately that screws up the bike's
torque and HP curves. The throttle bodies are small, so the engine
works more efficiently at extremely high RPMs (higher frequencies have
shorter wavelengths, natch), but worse at other RPM's (that flat spot
that Jim Stewart brought up is caused by this). These filters helped
racers on old race bikes, because those racers were keeping the engine
at relatively high RPMs. Those engines also died a lot.
The SV1000 snorkle is tuned to the SV1000's needs. A larger snorkle
doesn't necessarilly let in more air: it does this same cancellation
thing at different frequencies (my guess is at wavelengths 2X the
width of the snorkle, as well as the frequencies that are twice the
distances between the parrellel walls of the airbox) So I wouldn't
use that either.
This is also why ram air isn't on every vehicle. Ram air is dirt
cheep, so it would be on every vehicle if it always helped, but its
only useful when it's tuned (like a musical instrument) to the
frequencies that keep the air out. The "big funnel effect" only goes
so far.
If you want to change the use of your bike from what the engineers
were thinking (such as a show bike, or a racer that no longer rides on
the street) and you have a lot of dyno time then you might be able to
improve performance, but I would keep this part of the bike the same
otherwise.
This begs the question: if the airbox design is so great then why are
things like the suspension not? Well, better suspensions cost more
money, but airboxes are dirt cheep, in the case of my wife's bike its
just a $0 indentation in the bottom of her gas tank.
Thank you,
Paul
http://dangerismymiddlename.com
Rick Cone
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steven michaeli
Thumper Ray
--- steven michaeli <stevenm...@yahoo.com> wrote:
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>
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