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Cheryll Witting

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Aug 4, 2024, 2:01:48 PM8/4/24
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Todayis a complete nightmare. After waking several times through the night to the sound of thrashing rain, I awake with abdominal cramps. As everything is so damp my travel knickers are still wringing wet.

As soon as breakfast is finished, I make a mad dash for the camp loo (a phone box-sized tent over a hole in the ground) suffering a wicked case of the trots. I start to panic and worry that the first signs of altitude sickness are setting in.


The first leg of the walk is fairly flat and I lean heavily on my walking poles for support. We walk across the crater of Shira volcano to make a scenic detour up a jutting ridge called Shira Cathedral (13,500ft). With dextrose tablets under my tongue and Dioralyte in my drinking water, my strength returns.


We're supposed to have the most breathtaking views of the volcanic crater and the summit of Kibo, the highest peak, but we can't see a bloody thing. Janet jokes: 'I hope we're climbing the right mountain.'


We clamber back down the rocks to retrieve our daypacks and eat a packed lunch. The rain is relentless on a two-hour walk to our next camp at Shira Hut (12,500ft). Everyone's waterproofs are saturated. Janet collapses on her sleeping bag in tears and Johnny is beyond flat.


Tuesday November 27 Hallelujah! I rise at 6am to the most glorious sight. The majestic peak of Kilimanjaro is bathed in warm sunshine and so are we. Kibo is covered in glaciers and snow and the opposite view of the volcanic crater of Shira is amazing. We can finally mark our progress and it is massively inspiring.


Everyone drags his or her wet gear on to the rocks to dry out. After another porridge and egg-and-sausage breakfast we pack up and move on towards Barranco Valley up the southern flank of the mountain.


To prevent my daypack from getting soaked through I wrap it with my metallic emergency blanket, which resembles a big sheet of Baco-foil. I now look like I am hiking with a huge Christmas turkey on my back.


We finally pass 15,000ft and everyone feels great. By the time we get to camp, we have walked eight hours and we're knackered. More great fortifying food - Hungarian goulash and chips. After dinner Janet insists on a Scrabble rematch, but after 45 minutes our eyelids begin to droop and we turn in.


Tonight is the coldest night so far. Ground frost is setting in. I zip my sleeping bag up tight over my head and woolly hat. At 4am my bladder wakes me up and I streak outside. The stars are spectacular. The moon illuminates the snowy peak of Kibo and glistens off the frostcoated rocks around our camp.


Wednesday November 28 Today we have to scale the 700ft sheer rock face of Barranco Wall. We set off slowly so we can breathe more evenly. I take each rock at a time and try not to look down too much and induce my vertigo.


After an hour, we reach the top and I slug back half a litre of water in celebration. Our route now takes us down into Karanga Valley (relief) but we're on a main trail and I am disgusted by the plethora of rubbish, sweet wrappers, drinking boxes and fag ends left behind by other climbers.


After a dinner of corned beef stew, white rice and vegetables, Janet and I finish our Scrabble game from the night before. She is in the lead until I lay down the seven-letter word 'tollers' and eke out another victory.


Thursday 29 November After another 4am lavatory emergency, we rise at 7am so we can try climbing up the 45-degree scree slopes in Karanga Valley. At one point, Johnny tries to rush ahead and is overcome with waves of nausea and breathlessness. You really have to pace yourself.


All the way up, we experience freezing fog, rain and snow. Getting to 15,500 ft is brutal on our legs and by the time we move back down to Karanga Valley High Camp, I have a splitting headache. Another tough day.


Friday 30 November Today, I am extremely anxious and apprehensive. Getting to Barafu High Camp at 16,000ft will be a real test of my body's acclimatising ability and my crampy stomach won't make it any easier. But the 6.30 sunrise is spectacular. Gorgeous views of Mount Meru and the frosty Kibo peak. I force myself to eat breakfast. As Janet is in a particularly grumpy mood this morning, Johnny hangs some garlic outside her tent, which sends everyone into fits of laughter.


Karanga is the last place we can get fresh water, so all water will need to be carted up the mountain to the next camp. The porters carry huge containers of it. Their strength and stamina is truly awe-inspiring.


We stop for a box lunch at Barafu Hut camp, a bleak and depressing place. Our goal is to continue for another hour and a half to the Barafu Ridge High Camp. After lunch, we soldier on and reach our new camp by mid-afternoon.


Tonight is the big night. In order to reach the summit, Uhuru Point, by sunrise, we have to leave camp by 1.30am and climb another 3,600ft. We all flop into our tents and try to get some rest. At 6pm, we are woken and given a dinner of the most garlicky soup, fried chicken and rice.


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