One feature you should definitely look for is "auto-ranging".That means that the meter automatically senses the order ofmagnitude of the reading for each input type (rather than requiringyou to select the range with the dial). The cheapest meters (inthe $10 range) lack auto-ranging. It's worth a few extra dollarsto get this feature.I don't have any specific brand recommendations. My professionalelectrical engineer friends have always sworn by their Fluke meters,and I'm sure they're great products, but they're quite pricey. Youcan find less prestigious brands with similar capabilities foras little as $20. I think that even the cheap meters are prettygood at this point in terms of accuracy and features, thanks to therelentless march of progress on digital electronics, although theyprobably lack the build quality of the Flukes and other top brands.If you're looking for a meter for occasional hobby use,I'd buy based on price and user reviews.20. Cabinet Parts ListWhen I built my cabinet, one of the unexpectedly big jobs was justfiguring out what I needed to buy. This chapter is an attempt to saveyou some of that legwork by presenting a master list of everything thatgoes into a virtual pinball machine. The list is organized intocategories to make it easier to digest and easier to find things.The list starts below after a fewpreliminary notes..cplSection padding: 1em 0px;margin: 2em 0px 1em 0px;border-top: 1ex solid #e8e8e8;border-bottom: 1px solid #e8e8e8;.cplSectName font-weight: bold;margin: 0px;.cplSectHeader padding: 1em 1em 1ex 1em;margin: 0px;.vpCabKit, .vpBtnKit padding: 0px 1ex;margin: 1ex 2em;vertical-align: baseline;color: #ff00ff;font-size: 60%;font-weight: normal;border: 1px solid #ff80ff;border-radius: 5px;white-space: nowrap;.vpCabKit.inline, .vpBtnKit.inline display: inline-block;margin: 0px;.vpBtnKit color: #ff8000;border: 1px solid #ff8000;.cplTable .cplQty display: inline-block;width: 6em;margin: 0px;.cplTable box-sizing: border-box;width: 100%;border-collapse: collapse;.cplTable tr:last-of-type td border-bottom: none;.cplTable th:nth-of-type(1), .tplTable td:nth-of-type(1) text-align: left;.cplTable th:nth-of-type(2), .cplTable td:nth-of-type(2) text-align: center;white-space: nowrap;.cplTable th padding-bottom: 1em;.cplTable td border-bottom: 1px solid #f8f8f8;vertical-align: top;padding: 1ex 0px;.cplTable .cplNotes font-style: italic;margin: 1ex 2em;.cplTable .cplDesc margin: 1ex 2em;.cplDesc > ul margin-left: -2em;Pinball part referencesMany of the items on the list are replacement parts for real pinballmachines. When possible, these are listed with the originalmanufacturer part numbers. This makes it easy to find the exact partyou're looking for, since most arcade suppliers include these numbersin their catalogs and databases. You can enter one of these numbersinto the search box on most pinball vendor Web sites to find thatexact part, without having to wade through a ton of hits for similaritems, as is often the case if you search by name or description.Most of the part numbers are even unique enough to yield good resultsfrom a Google search.The part numbers listed are mostly for Williams/Bally 1990s eramachines, also known as WPC machines (for "Williams PinballController", the core electronics platform used throughout thatgeneration). Those machines had a very uniform cabinet design, andmost of the core cabinet parts used a single design shared across manygames. Williams is no longer in the pinball business (much to theregret of pinball enthusiasts), but the modern machines being made byStern and a few smaller boutique pinball companies still hew veryclosely to the WPC cabinet design, and use most of the same parts, orequivalents that can be used interchangeably. As a result, it's easyto find new replacement parts for most of the WPC cabinet components,which makes the WPC hardware an excellent basis for building a newcabinet from scratch.FastenersPinball machines use a lot of different fasteners, including machinescrews, wood screws and sheet-metal screws, carriage bolts, hex nuts,flange nuts, and T-nuts. Most of these are generic parts that you canbuy anywhere, but some of them are unusual and can be hard to findoutside of the pinball vendors.Here's a quick overview of the terminology and sizing specificationsfor most of the fasteners used in a pin cab.Wood screws and sheet-metal screws have pointy ends that are designedto penetrate soft material and form threads in the material as youscrew them in the first time. Machine screws and bolts have flat endsthat can only be used with pre-threaded receptacles, usually nuts.Machine screw sizes are specified by three quantities, like so: diameter-thread x lengthFor example: #8-32 x 1" bolt = diameter #8, thread pitch 32, length 1"There are two unit systems for this:
- The American (also known as Imperial) system, used for most Americanproducts, expresses the diameter in inches or "#" units (see below);it gives the length in inches; and the thread pitch is expressed inthreads per inch. So a #8-32 x 1" machine screw has a diameterof #8 (about 5/32"), 32 threads per inch, and 1" length.
- The Metric system, used almost everywhere outside of the US,expresses everything in millimeters. Metric parts are designatedwith an "M" before the diameter. An M5-0.8 x 12mm machine screwhas a diameter of 5mm, thread pitch of 0.8mm between threads,and a length of 12mm.
Wood screws and sheet metal screws are sized by just the diameter andlength, as in #6 x 1". Since they form their own threads when screwedin, you don't need a matching part with the same thread pitch, sothat's not usually specified. Sheet metal screws and wood screws arebasically the same thing, with subtle differences in the way thethreads are shaped. Sheet metal screws come in a bewildering varietyof options for the exact shape of the pointy end, with the differentshapes being optimized for tapping into particular types ofmaterial, but I've never found any virtual pinball situation wherethis matters. Sheet metal screws often work well with wood, and infact, they're often used this way in the original pinball machines.The length of a screw or bolt is the portion excluding the head.The "#" diameter units are used in the American system for sizes lessthan 1/4", where the fractions become inconvenient to write. (In thiscontext, "#" is pronounced "number". Modern audiences will be temptedto call a #8 screw a "hashtag eight", but that will get you funnylooks from machinists.) Each "#" size represents an exact size infractions of an inch, but I don't think there's any kind of formulafor it; you just have to look it up in a table. Higher "#" numbersare larger diameters: #10 is bigger than #8, which is bigger than #6.Here's a quick reference to the "#" sizes commonly used in pinballmachines (you can find more comprehensive tables on the Web): # SizeDecimal InchesNearest fractionMetric #4 0.109375" 7/64" 2.778mm #5 0.125" 1/8" 3.175mm #6 0.140625" 9/64" 3.572mm #8 0.15625" 5/32" 3.969mm #10 0.1875" 3/16" 4.763mmEvery hardware manufacturer and hardware store uses these standardunits to label their parts. #6 always means the same thing in amachine screw no matter where you buy it. Note, however, that M6 and#6 are different sizes, and can't be used together. This can beconfusing because the "M" sizes and "#" sizes happen to look veryclose to each other when you eyeball them, but they're not closeenough to actually mix and match parts.For machine screws, the
thread number (the "32" in "#10-32",for example) is an important extra spec giving the thread pitch (thenumber of threads per inch). Screws and nuts will only fit togetherif they have the same diameter
and thread pitch; for example, a⅜"-20 bolt won't fit into a ⅜"-32 nut, because thethreads are spaced differently.The terms "machine screw" and "bolt" are basically interchangeable."Bolt" is usually used for larger parts, above about 1/4", but otherwisea bolt is just a big machine screw.Here are the most common fastener types you'll see in the parts lists:
- Machine screws with slotted heads for tightening with a screwdriver(usually flat or Phillips)
- Hex-head machine screws and bolts, for tightening with a socket wrench
- Carriage bolts.These are bolts with smooth rounded heads, for places where anexternal bolt should be inconspicuous and not easily removable fromthe outside. They have square necks that fit into square holes on thereceiving end, which is what serves in place of a wrench to hold themstill when you're tightening a nut on the other end. Most of thecarriage bolts used in a pinball machines are available with a blackfinish that makes them blend better with the artwork.
- Flange nuts arehex nuts with integral washers. Whiz flange nuts or flange locknuts have serrated surfaces on the bottom of the integrated washerto help lock them in place when tightened.
- T-nuts are threaded socketsthat are installed permanently in a piece of wood. These are usedwhen you need to be able to screw a bolt into an internal locationthat you can't access to insert a regular nut by hand. Some T-nutshave prongs that let you pound them into like a nail to secure them,while others can be screwed in to their install location with wood screws.
SEMS screws and lock nutsAlmost all of the machine-screw fasteners in a commercial pinballmachines are special vibration-resistant variations of the basictypes. It's easy to understand why, given the amount of mechanicalaction in a physical pinball game. I think it's worth using theseparts in a virtual cabinet, too, especially if you're includingtactile feedback devices. It's annoying to have to keep re-tighteningscrews that shake loose over time, and parts that work themselves freecan cause damage.There are three special fasteners in particular that are used over andover in the commercial machines. You can substitute these just aboutanywhere that regular machine screws and nuts are called for.
- SEMS machine screws are regular machine screws with theaddition of an attached lock washer at the head. The lock washer addsa lot of grip between the head and the attached part once once thescrew is tightened down. ("SEMS" is reportedly a shortening of"asSEMbled".)
- Elastic Stop Nuts (ESN)s are steel hex nuts with nylon threadinserts that add a lot of friction, requiring extra torque to turn thenut. Also known by the trade name Nyloc nuts. Note that we're nottalking about nuts made entirely of plastic - the nylon part in theseis just a lining inside the threading, and the main body is made ofsteel, zinc, or stainless steel.
- Keps nuts are hex nuts with permanently attached lockwashers. As with SEMS screws, the lock washers add grip between thenut and the attached part when the nut is tightened. In thecommercial pinballs, ESNs are much more common and could be consideredthe default, but Keps nuts are useful in places where you can't (ordon't want to) apply a lot of torque to the screw that the nutattaches to. ("Keps" is a trade name, taken from "shaKEProof".They're also called K-lock nuts and washer nuts.)
Cabinet trim hardware variationsThe WPC cabinets were basically all the same - Williams came up with agood design and stuck to it for many years. But there was onesignificant variation to be aware of: a number of titles, marketed asthe "Superpin" games, had extra-wide bodies for the main cabinet,allowing a wider-than-normal playfield. All of extra-wide titles camein the same extra-wide size, so even taking these into account, thereare still only two widths we need to concern ourselves with: thestandard machines and the widebody machines. What's more, the onlything that's different about the widebody machines is the width of themain cabinet; the other dimensions (including the backbox dimensions)and all design elements are identical between the regular and widebodymachines. As a result, the widebodies share all of the same hardwarewith the standard machines except for the main front-top metal trimpiece, known as the lockdown bar, and of course the glass cover.If you go back further in time, before the 1990s, the cabinets becomeincreasingly different from WPC machines. You should be aware of thiswhen you go shopping, particularly if you shop on eBay for used parts.If you're building from scratch to the WPC plans, you'll want to makesure that any used parts you buy are compatible with WPC cabinets.By the same token, if you're refurbishing a used cabinet from the1980s or before, check carefully when buying new replacement partsfrom arcade suppliers, because arcade suppliers mostly stock parts for1990s machines. New parts probably won't fit a 1970s cabinet unlessthey're specifically listed as such. If you are trying to refurbishan old cabinet, one particularly good arcade vendor to try is MarcoSpecialties. They have an unusually deep catalog with parts for lotsof older machines. Find the original operator's manual for themachine you're restoring, if possible, since that will usually includea detailed list of the machine's parts, with manufacturer part numbersthat you can look up on pinball vendor Web sites to find the exactversion. If you shop on eBay, it's harder to be sure ofcompatibility. Ideally, look for parts for the exact title you'rerefurbishing, but failing that, go by manufacturer and year; thepinball makers mostly re-used parts across their product lines for afew years at a time, so a part of the same vintage from the samemanufacturer will usually fit.Where to buyMost of the parts in the master list are fairly standardized,interchangeable parts used in most WPC-era machines, and in mostcases, used in 2000s machines from Stern, Jersey Jack, and others.Most of these parts are readily available on the Web from pinballparts vendors and arcade machine dealers. If you live in a majormetro area, you might even be able to find a local arcade dealerwho stocks some parts, although you'll probably need tolook to the Web for the more obscure stuff.Some of the vendors I've used:
- Pinball Life
- Marco Specialties
- Planetary Pinball Supply
- VirtuaPin
Most of the generic hardware (nuts, bolts, screws) can also be foundat hardware stores, Amazon, and eBay. Note that some of these areavailable in special finishes from the pinball vendors that you mightnot find at regular hardware stores (e.g., carriage bolts in black,chrome bolts for attaching the legs).Custom-cut pieces of glass can be found locally almost anywhere fromwindow glass stores. Check for local businesses that install andrepair residential windows. Custom sizes of acrylic and otherplastics can be found locally at plastics stores and some hardwarestores. (If you're on the west coast, check for a localTAP Plastics.) You can also buyan uncut acrylic sheet from a hardware store and cut it to sizeyourself with a special plastic cutter knife, but that doesn't produceas clean a cut as you can get from a pro at a plastics store.VirtuaPin part bundlesIf you're building a cab from scratch, you can save some time onshopping (and possibly save money as well) by buying a pre-packagedparts bundle from VirtuaPin.You can find these on their Web site under "Bundle Deals". They offertwo packages of particular interest to new cab builders:
VirtuaPin Cab Builder's Kit: This includes most of the standardcabinet hardware items used on typical 1990s era machines (the"Williams WPC" style). The kit comes in standard-body and wide-bodyversions, so choose the one matching your cabinet plans. Partsincluded in these kits are marked in the lists below withVP Cab Kit.I recommend this kit. It's cheaper than buying the same partsindividually, and it gets you about 80% of the way to a complete cabin terms of the accessories.The only downside is that the kit is only available in the standardchrome/stainless steel finishes for the trim parts. That's exactlywhat most people want, since it's the standard look on most realmachines. But some of the newer Stern machines come with apowder-coat finish on most of the metal trim, color-coordinated tocomplement the artwork. That's a nice upgraded look that you mightwant for your own build. Other metallic finishes are possible aswell, such as brass. Another custom upgrade that some people want isa lock bar with a "Fire" button in the middle. That requires aspecial lock bar and matching "receiver", which you can't currentlyget with the VirtuaPin kit. If you want to choose your own finishes(see "Custom finishes" below) or include a "Fire" button on the lockbar, you're better off skipping the kit and buying everything
à la carte, since you'd throw away most of the kit.It's also possible to adapt the standard lockbar hardware for a Firebutton, but it takes a bit of work. SeeChapter 23, Cabinet Hardware Installation for details.
VirtuaPin Button Kit: This includes most of the buttons in atypical virtual cab. In the list below, we've marked the items inthis kit with VP Button Kit.I'm ambivalent on this kit. It'll save you some time, but it's lessof a bargain than the cab builder's kit because it includes somebuttons you probably won't use. It also lacks some that you mightwant to add. If you don't mind doing the extra planning and shopping,I'd skip this kit and buy buttons individually, so that you can getexactly what you want.Custom finishesMost of the exterior metal trim - legs, side rails, lockdown bar - isavailable in multiple finishes. The "standard" finishes are chromefor the legs, brushed stainless steel for the lock bar and side rails,and black powder-coat for the coin door. With some extra work, youcan get all of these parts in other finishes, such as brass, gold, orjust about any powder-coat color.The big vendors mostly just offer the standard finishes, but MarcoSpecialties often has a few alternatives available to match recentStern titles. Stern typically releases a Limited Edition version ofeach new title, with upgraded trim, usually in a powder-coat colorthat complements the cabinet art. Marco usually stocks a selection ofsuch trim, but it's hit or miss. If you're lucky, you might be ableto find a full set of trim in a color featured on a past Stern LEgame.You might also be able to find trim in alternative finishes from pinball"mod" sellers. A number of small vendors sell upgrade parts,including custom-finished trim, to the pinball collector market.These guys all sell online and on eBay; try a Web search for "pinballside rail" (for example) plus the type of finish you're seeking.If you have a specific idea for the look you want, your best optionmight be to buy "raw" or "unfinished" trim and find someone to applythe desired custom finish.Pinball Life sellsunfinished legs, side rails, and backbox hinges, specifically as abase for custom finishes. This is a much better starting point thanthe standard parts, because a refinisher would have to strip theexisting finish off first, which is expensive and time-consuming.You can find services online that offer custom powder coat andmetallic finishes - you ship them the parts, and they do the work andship them back. You might also be able to find a local business thatdoes this, if you live in a major metro area. Try looking for localshops that refinish antiques and/or auto and motorcycle parts.Master parts list for a virtual pinball machine Miscellaneous suppliesItemQtyWire: 22-24 AWG stranded You'll use a surprisingamount of wire to connect various parts of the machine together:buttons, lights, feedback devices. It's convenient to have a fewspools of wire on hand throughout the build. You can use 22 or 24gauge wire for practically everything, and it's cheaper (by the foot)to buy wire in large spools, so I'd pick one size and buy lots of it.If you're only installing buttons, 100ft should be adequate; if you'reinstalling feedback devices, you'll probably want at least 200ft onhand. Buy several assorted insulation colors to make the wiringeasier to trace. 100ft+Wire: 18 AWG stranged You'll also need some thicker wire for some of the power wiresand speaker wires. I recommend 18 AWG as a good general-purposechoice for these higher power wires. 50 to 100 feet should beadequate for most pin cabs. I'd start with two 25' spools, one withwhite insulation and one with black.50ftSolder A good quality solder makes a surprising difference in theease of work and the quality of your results. I really likeKester 44 rosin core solder. You can get it in1oz tubes, but the 1lb rolls are a much better deal ifyou think you might do any significant amount of solderingin the future.1oz-1lb#6 wood screws, various lengths I found that I used an amazing number of wood screws forall sorts of random tasks. The vast majority were #6 woodscrews - these are the right size for all sorts of miscellaneousjobs. Keep an ample supply on hand so that you don't have tokeep running to Home Depot. Recommendation: buy 100 #6 x ",100 in ", 100 in 1", 100 in ", and perhaps 25 1".LotsNails As with #6 screws, it's convenient to have a supply of various nailson hand. You'll mostly need finishing nails rather than anythingheavy-duty. I mostly used 1" and " brads, so I'd recommendbuying a bunch of each.LotsWood glue If you're doing your own woodworking or building from a flat pack,you'll need a good wood glue for the joints. It's a goodthing to have on hand for miscellaneous jobs even if you have apre-assembled cab.1 tubeEpoxy Some things are easiest to assemble or attach with a strong glue.Get a two-component epoxy (the type with two tubes of goo thatyou mix together just before use). I don't recommend "superglues"(cyanoacrylate glues) for most cab uses.1 tubeCabinet wood shellHardwood plywood, ", 4'x8' sheet If you're doing your own woodworking from scratch, I recommend usinga furniture-quality hardwood plywood for all of the cabinet pieces.This is what they used on the real machines. The " thicknessis important for making the accessories fit properly. Some peopleuse particle board or melamine, which are cheaper, but I preferplywood. MDO plywood (a hybrid sheet product with a plywood coreand an MDF veneer) is an excellent alternative if you can find it.It combines plywood's superior strength with the perfectly smoothsurface finish of MDF, so there's essentially no prep work neededfor paint or decals. It's possible to make do with a single4'x8' sheet, but it's easier with two sheets. SeeAppendix 9, Plywood Cutting Plans for Cabinet Construction.1 or 2Plywood, ", 4'x8' sheetThe cabinet floor and the back wall of the backbox are typicallymade from 1/2" material. Most commercial machines use particleboard for these parts, since they're not cosmetic. I preferplywood since it's stronger and lighter.1Flat pack kitAs an alternative to raw lumber, you can buy a pre-cut flat packkit. VirtuaPin and others sell these. A flat pack has all of thecabinet pieces cut to size and ready to assemble.1Cabinet artworkMost cab builders opt for decals printed with custom artwork.You can create your own artwork with a computer graphics program.Decals are popular because they can make your cab look just like areal machine - done properly, they make for a very professionalfinish. Some people prefer a simple black paint job or naturalwood finish, and some go with stenciled paint decoration for amore vintage look (like machines from the 1960s or 1970s).See Chapter 22, Cabinet Art for ideas and resources.Custom cabinet decal setA set of decals covering the visible surfaces of the cabinet andbackbox.1Translite decalThe backbox TV's display area will necessarily be smaller thanthe translite, so there will be some gaps around the edges.You can use decals to fill the gaps decoratively.1DMD panel decalThe real machines during the late 1980s and early 1990s hadprinted artwork filling the DMD panel, with a custom designfor each title to complement the backglass artwork.The later WPC-era machines (from about 1995 to 2000)switched to generic, matte black panels, decorated only withthe manufacturer logo. I personally prefer the moreornate look of the early 1990s machines, which you canreproduce using a printed decal with your own custom artworkbased on the graphics theme for your main cab. If youprefer the more neutral style of the later generic panels,you can approximate that with a simple black paint job.1Main cabinet hardwareSide rails WPC style: Williams/Bally A-12359-3, 01-8993-22VP Cab KitMounting tape for side rails Double-sided foam tape, " wide, .032" (approx) thick. This goes between therails and the side of the cabinet. About 80" length required.80 inches#8-32 x 1" carriage bolts For attaching the side rails2#8-32 hex ESN lock nut These go with the carriage bolts for attaching the side rails2Lockdown bar
- WPC Standard: Williams/Bally D-12615, A-18240
- WPC Widebody: Williams/Bally A-16055, A-17996
- WPC Custom width: available from VirtuaPin and others
- Stern standard width with center "FIRE" button: search for "premium lockbar"
1VP Cab KitLockdown bar receiver
- WPC (standard, widebody, or custom): Williams/Bally part A-16673-1, A-9174-4
- Stern lockbar receiver with center "FIRE" button: Stern 500-7237-00
Important: This part mates with the lockdown bar, so make sure you choose a receiver that matches the type of lockdown bar you have. The Williams WPC receiver is the same for standard, widebody, and custom widths of WPC lockbars. For other brands, check the vendor site for the compatible receiver after you select a lockbar.1VP Cab KitLeg brackets Williams/Bally 01-11400-14VP Cab Kit#8 x 5/8" wood screws, hex-head, slotted For attaching the leg brackets to the cabinet.Williams/Bally 4108-01219-11, 4608-01081-132Steel legs Williams/Bally A-195144VP Cab KitLeg levelers with nuts Williams/Bally 08-73774VP Cab KitCabinet leg protectors Optional; these can help protect the cabinet decals or paint from wear aroundthe leg joints. These weren't original equipment on WPC-era machines; MarcoSpecialties and Pinball Life carry several options, including felt and metalversions. The metal ones are said to be better for decals, but this is mootif you trim the decals around the leg contact area.4Leg bolts, ⅜"-16 x 2" or 2" The longer 2-" length is easier to work with, especially if you're usingleg protectors. The type sold by pinball vendors has a chrome finish androunded dome ("acorn") head for a nicer appearance than generic hexbolts from hardware stores.Williams/Bally 4322-01125-408VP Cab KitLeg bolt nuts, ⅜"-16 thread Hex nuts, ⅝" outside diameter. Williams/Bally 4422-01117-008⅜"-16 T-nuts Install in the "shelf" at the back of the cabinet, to mate with thewing bolts installed in the backbox floor to secure the backbox in theupright position.2Coin doorThe WPC style is available fully assembled with the mounting frame, coinslots, slam tilt switch, operator buttons, and wiring harness, butgenerally without the coin acceptor mechanisms. Williams/Ballypart 09-37000-1; alternate part numbers: 09-46000, 09-96017,09-17002-26, 09-23002-1, and 09-61000-X, 09-61000-1.Available as an add-on in the VP cab kit1Coin mechanisms for coin door Optional. You need these if you want use actual coins.One "mech" is required per coin slot (the WPC doors above have two slots).1-2"-20 x 1" carriage bolts, black For attaching coin door and lockdown bar. Williams/Bally 4320-01123-20BNote: another 6 are needed for backbox6VP Cab Kit"-20 flange locknuts Williams/Bally 4420-01141-00Note: another 6 are needed for backbox6VP Cab KitCashboxOptional. Sits under the coin slots to collect inserted coins. Youneed
something for this purpose if you plan to use coins; thestandard box is well designed for the job, but it's rather large.You might prefer to improvise something more compact.The standard cashbox consists of two parts: the plastic tray(Williams part 03-7626, Stern part 545-5090-00), and a metal cover(Williams part 01-10020, Stern 535-5013-03, 535-5013-02, 535-5013-01).1Cashbox nest bracketOptional; recommended for use with a standard cashbox.Attaches to the inside front wall of the cabinet just under the coindoor to keep the cashbox from sliding around.Williams part #01-6389-01.1Cashbox lock bracketOptional; recommended for use with a standard cashbox.Attaches to the short dividing wall on the cabinet floor thatdelineates the cashbox area at the front, to anchor the cashbox wheninstalled. Williams/Bally part 01-10030 or 1A-3493-1.1Playfield glassTempered glass sheet for playfield cover
- Standard body: 43" x 21" x 3/16", Williams A-08-7028-T
- Widebody: 43" x 23" x 3/16", Williams A-08-7028-1
- Custom cabinet: 3/16" thick tempered glass, cut to a custom size per your plans. You should be able to order this at a local window glass shop. Tip: ask the shop to omit any marking or etching certifying that it's tempered glass. Glass makers might assume that you want a certification mark, since some building codes require the marking for certain uses in home construction, such as a glass shower enclosure. You don't need any certification for use in a pinball machine, though, so you'd probably prefer to omit any such markings, to avoid visual clutter.
