Bathymetry

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surfingbobsmyth

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Feb 14, 2010, 12:34:59 PM2/14/10
to Surf Forecasting
I was looking at the explanation of bathymetry that showed the canyon
north of Palos Verdes. That canyon is identified as leading into El
Porto, it appears to me that that canyon leads into Redondo Breakwater
not El Porto. El Porto is located about where the line pointing to the
canyon crosses the coastline.

My guess is that El Porto gets the refraction from the large
underwater knob due west of it.

R B

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Feb 15, 2010, 6:36:15 PM2/15/10
to Surf Forecasting
Santa Monica Canyon leads into ElPorto day in and day out on Winter
swells.
When the period of the swell is extreme at say 18 secs or more and
larger swells it focuses 200m or more to the north at
El Porto Jetty.

Further South and still N. of Palos Verdes is Redondo Canyon.
I'm not too experienced with Torrance Beach and vicinity but Redondo
Canyon feeds
into this area. From a surfing perspective I dont know if this canyon
has much value for
focusing more swell intensity or creating better shape to make much
note of it. But I have surfed the ave's as a sometime
staple some years when it has its groove on with better sandbars and
El Porto has been in a funk with high tide or whatnot.

San Pedro channel feeds Winter swells into Huntington Beach Pier day
in and out.
On longer period larger swells the focal point moves either to the
Huntington Cliffs / Bolsa Beach area or even
further North approaching Seal Beach.

Experience dictates where canyons focus waves, not necessarily lines
and rulers.
Follow the waves.

Yes sometimes other spots to the S. of ElPorto are bigger during the
winter.
Probably alot to do with the swell that threads between the Channel
Island and Ventura, its angle,strength and various periods at play.
Go figure.

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