Photoshop Cs6 V 6.0.335.0 Serial Number
Latrisha Adan
The reason for this is to start to ascertain at what point photoshop starts to choke. If I have photoshop use 90 of available memory it quickly hogs up 11GB slowing down my box for other purposes and if I leave it at 50% (7GB) there is a pause when I duplicate even the smallest layer (say a checkmark that goes into a checkbox).
Just a thought: If you're on a Mac, the Finder's file info (cmd-i) might be helpful, as it lists all names of the layers without even opening the file . You could copy this into a text editor with line numbering and replace all commas with linefeeds. The line numbering would reveal the number of layers (I havn't tested what happens with commas in layer names).
Ok, this may sound silly simple (if you have Photoshop), but the easiest way is to open the document in Photoshop and click the New Layer button at the bottom of the layers panel. The new layer will automatically be named "Layer 450" or one more than the number of the layers currently in the document.
Hi wish I could get a clear answer on this as well. I have a 4TB SD drive and 64 GB Ram - and my computer locks up when I try to stitch more then about 500 RAW or .jpg files. I am going to trying stitching 300 at a time and see if I can stitch them. MS ICE seems to stitch, but won't always allow me to save the file. Other software also locks up - I am using a fast processor with lots of RAM and free hard drive space so far no luck. Best I can stitch so far is about 479 images using CS versions of photoshop. I tried Gigpan (now bankrupt - but it needs to know the number of rows and cols - which I don't know off hand. Also tried other programs without luck - but have read a few others have been successful.
I must say this sounds a bit unrealistic. If this is going to have a remote chance of success, you need to turn any geometric correction off. It has to be reposition only. Otherwise it will end up like a giant four pointed star with all the corner stretching.
But that in itself makes aligning and blending the frames more difficult, and means you have to be extremely careful to avoid parallax error. Stitching always starts with careful shooting. I have used a Gigapan, and it relies on an elaborate programmable contraption that rotates and shifts the camera on three axes to keep the optical center of the lens in exactly the same position at all times. Trying to use Gigapan with software only will usually fail.
What's the pixel size of the originals? If successful, what pixel size do you anticipate for the final result? You'll probably need several terabytes for the scratch disk. RAM is basically irrelevant here, this will all be scratch disk.
Other than that, my general advice is always to not use the fully automated Photomerge script. Break it up into its basic components, auto-align and auto-blend. Always put a frame at the center of the scene at the bottom of the layer stack. The bottom layer is the anchor that the others will align to.
When adding an American phone number to a graphic using the text tool, the formatting changes the order of the numbers after a hyphen is typed in. For instance, if you type 1-800-521-3090 the number will reformat to 3090-521-800-1. I have had to retrain my brain to type the number in reverse as a workaround. This started about three updates back (an inaccurate observation). Do I need to set something in preferences to correct this? In creating websites, it's nice to be able to add a phone number to the header graphic without having to use profanity.
However. if your ready to relax your requirement a bit renaming a bunch of layers after they are created without a sentinel to do it automatically is trivial be compression. This has probably been done to the death, let me google for a second:
It's not perfect, as we can see in the gif, after I click on number 4 and continue using the script, it increments the number based on the previously active layer. It could be modified to find all layers with a similar name and find the layer with the biggers number, but it would be incredibly slow in most real world situations where you got more than 10 layers. That's why this sample is made to be dumb.
I am fairly new to Photoshop and I'm learning as I go, so I apologize for using your time. I haven't worked with images that much - I've used MS Digital Image Suite with photos from my camera. That's the extent of my knowledge.
I am taking over a job from someone who is gone and I can't ask him how to do this. He used Photoshop to reduce the number of colors in an image (for example, a color drawing or clipart) to 2-6 colors. I haven't been able to figure this out. I've visited this site that explains how to reduce tones but it's still a lot of colors. I thought I might learn something from this link that explained how to make Photoshop cartoons, but I didn't. I've done a lot of searching but nothing seems to explain this. I know that the other guy had some knowledge of Photoshop but he wasn't a power user.
It sounds like you are talking about a cartoon type gif image, and the Indexed colour is definitely the way to do that as above, but if you want to keep it as a jpg then Save for Web is a very useful tool, and you can see what affect it has on file size as you adjust the output options. But I think you already had the right answer.
Sorry I didn't put in more detail. These are for drawings that belong to me or that I have a license for. They're png and jpg files but they are not going on the web. I need to reduce the colors down to no more than 4. I tried the posterize idea, and earlier today I found a 'Save for web and devices' idea which does something very similar to the Image>Mode>Indexed color idea above, which I just tried (thanks, c.pf).
I don't know what this other guy did (the one I talked about in my first message) but they insist he did it very easily using Photoshop (CS5). I tried a lot of things before and after I wrote this help message, based on web suggestions. But I realized with these last two ideas I tried that this can't be done, at least not completely. In my head, I thought that I would be able to reduce the picture to (for this example) 4 colors of my choosing. The colors can be any pms color.
So, based on your help I found that if the areas were enclosed I could make them black and white and use color fill. But some of the items aren't one color even though they look like it. I would have to paint the pixels one color and this would take a long time even if they were enclosed. They tell me he just made these and he didn't have much of a knowledge of Photoshop, either. But it's looking like it's not that simple. Thanks again for your help.
If you change your image to index color mode, specify 4 colors, force custom colors and select your choice of 4 Pantone colors then it would seem that ALL your criteria are met. Perhaps you could post an example of an original & modified imaged that the previous designer produced and specify what is wrong with the index color approach, someone might be able to help.
Convert the original image in a Smart Object, in order to use Smart filters and blur the image (Gaussian Blur, or noise>median or blur>smart blur or blur>surface blur could be interesting internatives) would be useful, to make smoother posterized areas.
I think the original query concerned an easy way to simplify colours with Photoshop and I was also trying to find a way to emulate the painted travel posters from a previous age that tended to use simplified block colours with little textural details. This painted / screen print effect was popular for advertising cruises and railway yourneys and more recently was emulated in the opening titles of The Durrells TV series based on Corfu in the 1930's.
I think the starting point with a photo in Photoshop is to select Filters > Artistic > Cutout and thereeafter you can fine tune the apparent 'illustrator' type effect to suit you requirements. I was amazed at the simplified illustration type image it produced even witout further adjustment.
Select the artwork, then go to Edit > Edit Colors > Recolor Artwork. In the Assign tab, you will see all 52 original colors. Choose the six that you want to keep, then drag the other 46 to share space with those six and become that color. You'll see the preview of the actual artwork as you work.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
I cannot say thank you enough. Over the years, I always wandered back into this problem and, again, would wander lost through many programs and apps...all massive failures. I would give up frustrated and months later come back to it.
YOUR solution is The One.
May the IT powers guide you, May Creativity shine its light on you
May clients exhalt your abilities, May none of your computer keys stick
and May you have a great week!
The number of frames should change if the video duration is the same. Frame Rate A times duration will not be the same as Frame Rate B times duration. The durations should be the same the frames rate should not be the same. If the number of Frame remains the same the Duration should change. It looks like you are seeing the duration is changing when you make the change. You are seeing (Same number of Frames)/(different Frame rate) = (Different Duration) the video duration time is changing.
There is a big difference between a Frame Animation Timeline and a Video Timeline. You show a video timeline the horizontal layout is Time. and a single frame rate In a frame Animation timeline the horizontal layout are frames they can have different durations set.
When I change the frame rate on my widows system I see the rate change timeline scaling change but the duration remains the same. So try resettunf tools abd your user ID preferences, The duration should not change the rate and numbers of frames should.
You sure put very much endeavour in your answer, but ... probably, due to my lack of knowledge of the English language ... I only read a number of half sentences and a sequence of equally looking images - plus an animation at the end.
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