Overcoming the obstacle of rooting hoyas
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got2...@live.com
Jul 8, 2008, 12:53:15 AM7/8/08
to Stemma
For avid growers and collectors, there are fewer things more exciting
than acquiring a new species of their chosen plant. While starting
with large plants often provides instant gratification, the feelings
of success and accomplishment that come with the reward of seeing what
were once cuttings, thriving and growing on their own, are hard to
beat.
Often successful propagation is a trial and error experience.
Occasionally, a first attempt at rooting cuttings, or propagating
seeds will fail, while a second or even third attempt at rooting the
same thing will be wildly successful. Why? Well, who can really
say? With so many variables related to successful propagation,
factors to be taken into account include: light, temperature, season,
rooting medium, humidity, and the list goes on and on.
My hoya collection began in 2000 when I purchased an heirloom hoya at
an estate sale. Until it bloomed, I was unaware of what genus of
plant I actually had, and honestly really wasn’t interested. Upon
further research, I discovered the numerous Hoya species’, and thus
the various cultivars and varieties among the species’. For several
years I purchased only rooted, established plants, until one that I
was interested in was only available as a cutting. When asked how I
was with cuttings, I honestly didn’t know, but was willing to try
propagation in order to get the species I was looking for; thus the
research began again, only this time I needed to know how to root
cuttings.
Living in a cold, very dry area, I did not have the advantage of a
greenhouse, or high humidity environment to aid my rooting attempts.
My search results yielded instructions for rooting in water, perlite,
soil and sand mixes, rooting hormone, honey as a rooting hormone,
“willow water”, air layering, and grafting. I began by asking
everyone I could think of how to root cuttings. An elderly neighbor,
one who always told me to steal plants whenever possible, and never
thank anyone who gives you cuttings, said that she always rooted
plants in willow water. Not being anything that I had ever heard of,
I asked her what “willow water” was. I was instructed that willow
water was made from soaking the bark of a willow tree in water for
twenty-four hours before adding to cuttings to help them root. While
I found this information interesting, I did not have ready access to a
willow tree, and have never actually experimented with this method,
but may give it a try in the future.
A very patient nursery proprietor told me that adding ¼ cup of honey
to ¾ cups boiling water was what he used to root the majority of the
plants he grows in his establishment. His wife added that she also
dusts the cuttings with confectioner’s sugar. After doing a bit of
research about the rooting properties of honey, I found that it has
been proven to have fungicidal properties, and also supplies sugar to
the cuttings as a source of nutrients. I did use this concoction with
my first cutting, and noticed successful roots with in a few days. I
can’t credit my success to the honey mixture however, as it could have
had as much to do with the type of cutting, as any of the factors
listed above.
With further research, came more opinions, and suggestions. All of
the following suggestions I have found in books, been told by
successful gardeners, or read in publications. I find them all to be
valid, and potentially important suggestions, yet can honestly say
that I probably follow none of them.
It is suggested that tools be sterile, I tend to use whatever is handy
and sharp. I have read that leaves should be stripped; yet I keep as
many as I possibly can. I have heard that stems be cut at a forty-
five degree angle, yet I cut straight across. I even saw on a
gardening show that cuttings should be taken in the morning…I cut
stems whenever I feel like it. I have heard many theories regarding
the time of year in which plants will successfully root. This hasn’t
been my experience, as I have seen successful root formation in the
fall, and extensive growth in the winter, as well as in the spring and
summer months. Due to this observation, the only reservation I have
in ordering new plants or cuttings is the potential for freezing in
transit, not a lack of root formation or retarded growth. I don’t use
sterile potting medium, and have even gone so far as to reuse the
leftover soil mix from a previously deceased plant after removing all
of the dead roots.
I have successfully rooted cuttings in soil mix, but have found that
it is hard to tell early on when plant material is failing, and still
have enough time to fix the problem, thus often resulting in a
complete loss. I have also had much success rooting hoya cuttings in
perlite. Not knowing what perlite was, I again did a search, this
time online to gather a little more information. According to
Wikipedia, “perlite is an amorphic volcanic glass that has a
relatively high water content. It occurs naturally and has the
unusual property of greatly expanding when heated sufficiently.”
I find perlite to be my rooting medium of choice when dealing with
cuttings that have very little stem for rooting. Because I like to
keep as many leaves on my cuttings as possible, rather than removing
leaves for ease of rooting, I will stake a cutting in a small pot of
straight perlite with a bamboo grill skewer, and successfully root
cuttings with as little as ½ inch of stem. Perlite is also my choice
of rooting medium when I receive cuttings that are too green, or too
woody, with few of no adventitious root bumps. I find that perlite
does not dry out much faster that soil, and that plants can remain in
it for quite some time, often over a year, and thus be fairly well
established by the time they are potted into their soil mix.
My favorite method of rooting however is to use simple tap water,
supplemented with Eleanor’s VF-11 fertilizer. I use long neck,
colored beer bottles, as they aid in keeping the long hoya vines in
place. I perform weekly water changes, and usually have generous,
healthy roots within two weeks of receiving the cutting. There are
many who hold the opinion that water roots are different than soil
roots, and to date I have not found information to confirm or dispute
that idea. I do know that I have not found my cuttings that were
rooted in water to suffer or decline after being potted in soil. I
find the plant growth to be both steady and rapid, and at this time
it is my opinion that roots are roots, be they formed in water, soil
or perlite.
With my newfound confidence in rooting, I have been more successful in
keeping previously established plants in which I observe signs of
distress. In the past, I would simply watch as a beloved specimen
would stop growing, yellow, wither and eventually die. Now, the
moment I notice leaves loosing their firmness, and beginning to take
on a wrinkled, leathery appearance, I will, with no hesitation, remove
all roots, cut a plant into multiple cuttings, and start over fresh.
In most instances, I will have a thicker, fuller, healthier plant in
very little time. While I may not know exactly what was wrong with my
plant, it inevitably, every time, was root related.
Having learned multiple methods of successful rooting, I have not only
been able to expand the diversity of my hoyas, but consistently
maintain my extensive and expensive collection of different hoya
species and varieties.
S
than acquiring a new species of their chosen plant. While starting
with large plants often provides instant gratification, the feelings
of success and accomplishment that come with the reward of seeing what
were once cuttings, thriving and growing on their own, are hard to
beat.
Often successful propagation is a trial and error experience.
Occasionally, a first attempt at rooting cuttings, or propagating
seeds will fail, while a second or even third attempt at rooting the
same thing will be wildly successful. Why? Well, who can really
say? With so many variables related to successful propagation,
factors to be taken into account include: light, temperature, season,
rooting medium, humidity, and the list goes on and on.
My hoya collection began in 2000 when I purchased an heirloom hoya at
an estate sale. Until it bloomed, I was unaware of what genus of
plant I actually had, and honestly really wasn’t interested. Upon
further research, I discovered the numerous Hoya species’, and thus
the various cultivars and varieties among the species’. For several
years I purchased only rooted, established plants, until one that I
was interested in was only available as a cutting. When asked how I
was with cuttings, I honestly didn’t know, but was willing to try
propagation in order to get the species I was looking for; thus the
research began again, only this time I needed to know how to root
cuttings.
Living in a cold, very dry area, I did not have the advantage of a
greenhouse, or high humidity environment to aid my rooting attempts.
My search results yielded instructions for rooting in water, perlite,
soil and sand mixes, rooting hormone, honey as a rooting hormone,
“willow water”, air layering, and grafting. I began by asking
everyone I could think of how to root cuttings. An elderly neighbor,
one who always told me to steal plants whenever possible, and never
thank anyone who gives you cuttings, said that she always rooted
plants in willow water. Not being anything that I had ever heard of,
I asked her what “willow water” was. I was instructed that willow
water was made from soaking the bark of a willow tree in water for
twenty-four hours before adding to cuttings to help them root. While
I found this information interesting, I did not have ready access to a
willow tree, and have never actually experimented with this method,
but may give it a try in the future.
A very patient nursery proprietor told me that adding ¼ cup of honey
to ¾ cups boiling water was what he used to root the majority of the
plants he grows in his establishment. His wife added that she also
dusts the cuttings with confectioner’s sugar. After doing a bit of
research about the rooting properties of honey, I found that it has
been proven to have fungicidal properties, and also supplies sugar to
the cuttings as a source of nutrients. I did use this concoction with
my first cutting, and noticed successful roots with in a few days. I
can’t credit my success to the honey mixture however, as it could have
had as much to do with the type of cutting, as any of the factors
listed above.
With further research, came more opinions, and suggestions. All of
the following suggestions I have found in books, been told by
successful gardeners, or read in publications. I find them all to be
valid, and potentially important suggestions, yet can honestly say
that I probably follow none of them.
It is suggested that tools be sterile, I tend to use whatever is handy
and sharp. I have read that leaves should be stripped; yet I keep as
many as I possibly can. I have heard that stems be cut at a forty-
five degree angle, yet I cut straight across. I even saw on a
gardening show that cuttings should be taken in the morning…I cut
stems whenever I feel like it. I have heard many theories regarding
the time of year in which plants will successfully root. This hasn’t
been my experience, as I have seen successful root formation in the
fall, and extensive growth in the winter, as well as in the spring and
summer months. Due to this observation, the only reservation I have
in ordering new plants or cuttings is the potential for freezing in
transit, not a lack of root formation or retarded growth. I don’t use
sterile potting medium, and have even gone so far as to reuse the
leftover soil mix from a previously deceased plant after removing all
of the dead roots.
I have successfully rooted cuttings in soil mix, but have found that
it is hard to tell early on when plant material is failing, and still
have enough time to fix the problem, thus often resulting in a
complete loss. I have also had much success rooting hoya cuttings in
perlite. Not knowing what perlite was, I again did a search, this
time online to gather a little more information. According to
Wikipedia, “perlite is an amorphic volcanic glass that has a
relatively high water content. It occurs naturally and has the
unusual property of greatly expanding when heated sufficiently.”
I find perlite to be my rooting medium of choice when dealing with
cuttings that have very little stem for rooting. Because I like to
keep as many leaves on my cuttings as possible, rather than removing
leaves for ease of rooting, I will stake a cutting in a small pot of
straight perlite with a bamboo grill skewer, and successfully root
cuttings with as little as ½ inch of stem. Perlite is also my choice
of rooting medium when I receive cuttings that are too green, or too
woody, with few of no adventitious root bumps. I find that perlite
does not dry out much faster that soil, and that plants can remain in
it for quite some time, often over a year, and thus be fairly well
established by the time they are potted into their soil mix.
My favorite method of rooting however is to use simple tap water,
supplemented with Eleanor’s VF-11 fertilizer. I use long neck,
colored beer bottles, as they aid in keeping the long hoya vines in
place. I perform weekly water changes, and usually have generous,
healthy roots within two weeks of receiving the cutting. There are
many who hold the opinion that water roots are different than soil
roots, and to date I have not found information to confirm or dispute
that idea. I do know that I have not found my cuttings that were
rooted in water to suffer or decline after being potted in soil. I
find the plant growth to be both steady and rapid, and at this time
it is my opinion that roots are roots, be they formed in water, soil
or perlite.
With my newfound confidence in rooting, I have been more successful in
keeping previously established plants in which I observe signs of
distress. In the past, I would simply watch as a beloved specimen
would stop growing, yellow, wither and eventually die. Now, the
moment I notice leaves loosing their firmness, and beginning to take
on a wrinkled, leathery appearance, I will, with no hesitation, remove
all roots, cut a plant into multiple cuttings, and start over fresh.
In most instances, I will have a thicker, fuller, healthier plant in
very little time. While I may not know exactly what was wrong with my
plant, it inevitably, every time, was root related.
Having learned multiple methods of successful rooting, I have not only
been able to expand the diversity of my hoyas, but consistently
maintain my extensive and expensive collection of different hoya
species and varieties.
S
Ann Strahm
Jul 8, 2008, 3:06:01 AM7/8/08
to ste...@googlegroups.com
Normal Rooting Method
I do not have one way of rooting Hoyas. Rather, I root based on what I believe the conditions of the cutting call for. Ninety percent, however, of my cuttings are rooted in potting soil, using rooting hormone (smeared all over the stem and portion of leaf axel that will be placed in the potting soil).
The recipe that I typically use for potting soil is approximately one-half general-purpose potting soil, one-third perlite, and one-fifth orchid mix. This mixture allows for more of a free-draining, loose mix for the Hoya roots, yet retains enough water that the roots don't get too dry too quickly.
After I smear the rooting hormone over the stem and leaf axel, I fill a 2.5- to 3-inch pot halfway full of my potting soil mixture, place the cutting into the mix, then fill the pot up the rest of the way, firmly patting down the soil mixture around the cutting. I pour enough water into the pot that it drains out the bottom, and then I place the newly-planted cuttings in an aquarium with a piece of plastic over the top, and put the aquarium in a bright, warm place (no direct sun). A few weeks later, I have healthy rooted cuttings that grow like weeds.
Cuttings with Little Viable Stem
For cuttings that have little viable stem, I place what is left of the stem and leaves into a shallow dish of water.
As long as the entire leaf is not submerged it won't rot. I leave that cutting in the shallow dish of water until I have roots that are more than one-inch long. I had an IML 0738 H. acuta where all but one-half of an inch and two leaves had died. It took me around two months to root this tiny bit of plant, but it did root and I have successfully potted this plant. In this case I filled a small pot two-thirds full with perlite or ceramic pellets, then placed the potting soil mix on top of that, creating a small, raised mound in the middle of the pot. I planted the rooted cutting up on the mound, so that the leaves are not shoved down into the pot leading to potential breakage. This method does, however, require one to be vigilant in watering to make sure that that raised root area doesn't dry out too much.
Troublesome/Difficult Cuttings
As for troublesome cuttings, these are cuttings that, because of root-rot or trauma, have withered somewhat and leaves are showing signs of stress.
For these problems I turn, again, to good old-fashioned water.
The first thing I do is get a nice deep bowl of water and Superthrive and submerge the entire cutting in the water. I leave it this way for a couple of days, then I rinse the Superthrive infused water out of the bowl and continue to keep the cutting submerged for a few more days until I feel the leaves begin to thicken/harden up to normal.
At this time I decide what portion of the plant will continue to be submerged (including leaves), and keep that section that I wish to develop roots submerged in the water (make sure to change-out the water every couple of days). I often lose a few leaves in this process (they get waterlogged), but for the most part even the leaves that are submerged maintain a healthy look.
Eventually I get roots long enough (about one-inch) to pot up – and I take advantage of the several inches of stem that has roots, by potting the entire section of stem with roots on it into a pot (this time potting in more of a horizontal fashion, rather than vertical), which will ultimately create multiple shoots of new growth, and I once-again have a happily-growing plant.
Lesson Learned
At the end of the day most Hoya's are resilient and tough little fighters. Until there is no viable "flesh" on a plant, we've got a good shot at saving it.
:-)
Ann
I do not have one way of rooting Hoyas. Rather, I root based on what I believe the conditions of the cutting call for. Ninety percent, however, of my cuttings are rooted in potting soil, using rooting hormone (smeared all over the stem and portion of leaf axel that will be placed in the potting soil).
The recipe that I typically use for potting soil is approximately one-half general-purpose potting soil, one-third perlite, and one-fifth orchid mix. This mixture allows for more of a free-draining, loose mix for the Hoya roots, yet retains enough water that the roots don't get too dry too quickly.
After I smear the rooting hormone over the stem and leaf axel, I fill a 2.5- to 3-inch pot halfway full of my potting soil mixture, place the cutting into the mix, then fill the pot up the rest of the way, firmly patting down the soil mixture around the cutting. I pour enough water into the pot that it drains out the bottom, and then I place the newly-planted cuttings in an aquarium with a piece of plastic over the top, and put the aquarium in a bright, warm place (no direct sun). A few weeks later, I have healthy rooted cuttings that grow like weeds.
Cuttings with Little Viable Stem
For cuttings that have little viable stem, I place what is left of the stem and leaves into a shallow dish of water.
As long as the entire leaf is not submerged it won't rot. I leave that cutting in the shallow dish of water until I have roots that are more than one-inch long. I had an IML 0738 H. acuta where all but one-half of an inch and two leaves had died. It took me around two months to root this tiny bit of plant, but it did root and I have successfully potted this plant. In this case I filled a small pot two-thirds full with perlite or ceramic pellets, then placed the potting soil mix on top of that, creating a small, raised mound in the middle of the pot. I planted the rooted cutting up on the mound, so that the leaves are not shoved down into the pot leading to potential breakage. This method does, however, require one to be vigilant in watering to make sure that that raised root area doesn't dry out too much.
Troublesome/Difficult Cuttings
As for troublesome cuttings, these are cuttings that, because of root-rot or trauma, have withered somewhat and leaves are showing signs of stress.
For these problems I turn, again, to good old-fashioned water.
The first thing I do is get a nice deep bowl of water and Superthrive and submerge the entire cutting in the water. I leave it this way for a couple of days, then I rinse the Superthrive infused water out of the bowl and continue to keep the cutting submerged for a few more days until I feel the leaves begin to thicken/harden up to normal.
At this time I decide what portion of the plant will continue to be submerged (including leaves), and keep that section that I wish to develop roots submerged in the water (make sure to change-out the water every couple of days). I often lose a few leaves in this process (they get waterlogged), but for the most part even the leaves that are submerged maintain a healthy look.
Eventually I get roots long enough (about one-inch) to pot up – and I take advantage of the several inches of stem that has roots, by potting the entire section of stem with roots on it into a pot (this time potting in more of a horizontal fashion, rather than vertical), which will ultimately create multiple shoots of new growth, and I once-again have a happily-growing plant.
Lesson Learned
At the end of the day most Hoya's are resilient and tough little fighters. Until there is no viable "flesh" on a plant, we've got a good shot at saving it.
:-)
Ann
dmichael
Jul 11, 2008, 2:21:03 PM7/11/08
to Stemma
I have several methods that I use for rooting new hoya cuttings. The
first and most preferred by me is to take the cutting and insert it
right into a 4" pot of my own potting mixture. I am now also starting
to use the little solo cups like you use in your bathrooms. I begin
by filling the pot or cup 3/4 full of potting mixture and then
inserting the cutting making sure it is securely in the pot. I have
read more times than I care to think about where people have said that
you have to have the cutting inserted into the soil up to or just
above the first node. BULLS@#$ !!!!!! it ain't so!!!!!!!! I take
cuttings all the time with several inches of growth below a node and
just stick it into the soil with the node well above soil level and it
will root every time with no problems.
During the fall months when i'm trying to root I use the same method
but sit the pots in an old fish aquarium with overhead lighting and
bottom heat. Usually during that time of year I find it a bit hard to
root just about any kind of plant but the methods I use here seems to
work.
The next method that I use is in a commercial type cloning machine.
It's little more than just a 3 gallon bucket with a lid which has 28
cutouts in which a rubber plug has been inserted in to each. Each
rubber stopper has a hole about the size of a number 2 pencil in the
center of it where the cuttings are placed. Inside the unit is a
submersible pump to which an external air pump has also been attached.
The lid of the unit has a piece mounted in the center of it that looks
like an upside down mushroom. The pump shoots the water up onto this
diverter causing a 360 spray pattern which touches every cutting
placed in the unit. There is also an internal heater (aquarium dial
thermostat) that keeps the water heated to a desired temperature.
Using this set up I have had hoya cuttings to achieve root development
in as little as 3 days,but have had it take as long as a few weeks
with little or no results.
Water is not my preferred method of rooting but by using this machine
I am able to mass produce well rooted hoya cuttings in a short period
of time.
dmichael
On Jul 8, 3:06 am, "Ann Strahm" <ann.str...@gmail.com> wrote:
> *Normal Rooting Method*
> *
first and most preferred by me is to take the cutting and insert it
right into a 4" pot of my own potting mixture. I am now also starting
to use the little solo cups like you use in your bathrooms. I begin
by filling the pot or cup 3/4 full of potting mixture and then
inserting the cutting making sure it is securely in the pot. I have
read more times than I care to think about where people have said that
you have to have the cutting inserted into the soil up to or just
above the first node. BULLS@#$ !!!!!! it ain't so!!!!!!!! I take
cuttings all the time with several inches of growth below a node and
just stick it into the soil with the node well above soil level and it
will root every time with no problems.
During the fall months when i'm trying to root I use the same method
but sit the pots in an old fish aquarium with overhead lighting and
bottom heat. Usually during that time of year I find it a bit hard to
root just about any kind of plant but the methods I use here seems to
work.
The next method that I use is in a commercial type cloning machine.
It's little more than just a 3 gallon bucket with a lid which has 28
cutouts in which a rubber plug has been inserted in to each. Each
rubber stopper has a hole about the size of a number 2 pencil in the
center of it where the cuttings are placed. Inside the unit is a
submersible pump to which an external air pump has also been attached.
The lid of the unit has a piece mounted in the center of it that looks
like an upside down mushroom. The pump shoots the water up onto this
diverter causing a 360 spray pattern which touches every cutting
placed in the unit. There is also an internal heater (aquarium dial
thermostat) that keeps the water heated to a desired temperature.
Using this set up I have had hoya cuttings to achieve root development
in as little as 3 days,but have had it take as long as a few weeks
with little or no results.
Water is not my preferred method of rooting but by using this machine
I am able to mass produce well rooted hoya cuttings in a short period
of time.
dmichael
On Jul 8, 3:06 am, "Ann Strahm" <ann.str...@gmail.com> wrote:
> *Normal Rooting Method*
>
> I do not have one way of rooting Hoyas. Rather, I root based on what I
> believe the conditions of the cutting call for. Ninety percent, however, of
> my cuttings are rooted in potting soil, using rooting hormone (smeared all
> over the stem and portion of leaf axel that will be placed in the potting
> soil).
>
> The recipe that I typically use for potting soil is approximately one-half
> general-purpose potting soil, one-third perlite, and one-fifth orchid mix.
> This mixture allows for more of a free-draining, loose mix for the Hoya
> roots, yet retains enough water that the roots don't get too dry too
> quickly.
>
> After I smear the rooting hormone over the stem and leaf axel, I fill a 2.5-
> to 3-inch pot halfway full of my potting soil mixture, place the cutting
> into the mix, then fill the pot up the rest of the way, firmly patting down
> the soil mixture around the cutting. I pour enough water into the pot that
> it drains out the bottom, and then I place the newly-planted cuttings in an
> aquarium with a piece of plastic over the top, and put the aquarium in a
> bright, warm place (no direct sun). A few weeks later, I have healthy
> rooted cuttings that grow like weeds.
>
> *Cuttings with Little Viable Stem*
> I do not have one way of rooting Hoyas. Rather, I root based on what I
> believe the conditions of the cutting call for. Ninety percent, however, of
> my cuttings are rooted in potting soil, using rooting hormone (smeared all
> over the stem and portion of leaf axel that will be placed in the potting
> soil).
>
> The recipe that I typically use for potting soil is approximately one-half
> general-purpose potting soil, one-third perlite, and one-fifth orchid mix.
> This mixture allows for more of a free-draining, loose mix for the Hoya
> roots, yet retains enough water that the roots don't get too dry too
> quickly.
>
> After I smear the rooting hormone over the stem and leaf axel, I fill a 2.5-
> to 3-inch pot halfway full of my potting soil mixture, place the cutting
> into the mix, then fill the pot up the rest of the way, firmly patting down
> the soil mixture around the cutting. I pour enough water into the pot that
> it drains out the bottom, and then I place the newly-planted cuttings in an
> aquarium with a piece of plastic over the top, and put the aquarium in a
> bright, warm place (no direct sun). A few weeks later, I have healthy
> rooted cuttings that grow like weeds.
>
>
> For cuttings that have little viable stem, I place what is left of the stem
> and leaves into a shallow dish of water.
>
> As long as the entire leaf is not submerged it won't rot. I leave that
> cutting in the shallow dish of water until I have roots that are more than
> one-inch long. I had an IML 0738 H. acuta where all but one-half of an inch
> and two leaves had died. It took me around two months to root this tiny bit
> of plant, but it did root and I have successfully potted this plant. In
> this case I filled a small pot two-thirds full with perlite or ceramic
> pellets, then placed the potting soil mix on top of that, creating a small,
> raised mound in the middle of the pot. I planted the rooted cutting up on
> the mound, so that the leaves are not shoved down into the pot leading to
> potential breakage. This method does, however, require one to be vigilant in
> watering to make sure that that raised root area doesn't dry out too much.
>
> *Troublesome/Difficult Cuttings
> For cuttings that have little viable stem, I place what is left of the stem
> and leaves into a shallow dish of water.
>
> As long as the entire leaf is not submerged it won't rot. I leave that
> cutting in the shallow dish of water until I have roots that are more than
> one-inch long. I had an IML 0738 H. acuta where all but one-half of an inch
> and two leaves had died. It took me around two months to root this tiny bit
> of plant, but it did root and I have successfully potted this plant. In
> this case I filled a small pot two-thirds full with perlite or ceramic
> pellets, then placed the potting soil mix on top of that, creating a small,
> raised mound in the middle of the pot. I planted the rooted cutting up on
> the mound, so that the leaves are not shoved down into the pot leading to
> potential breakage. This method does, however, require one to be vigilant in
> watering to make sure that that raised root area doesn't dry out too much.
>
> *
> As for troublesome cuttings, these are cuttings that, because of root-rot or
> trauma, have withered somewhat and leaves are showing signs of stress.
>
> For these problems I turn, again, to good old-fashioned water.
>
> The first thing I do is get a nice deep bowl of water and Superthrive and
> submerge the entire cutting in the water. I leave it this way for a couple
> of days, then I rinse the Superthrive infused water out of the bowl and
> continue to keep the cutting submerged for a few more days until I feel the
> leaves begin to thicken/harden up to normal.
>
> At this time I decide what portion of the plant will continue to be
> submerged (including leaves), and keep that section that I wish to develop
> roots submerged in the water (make sure to change-out the water every couple
> of days). I often lose a few leaves in this process (they get waterlogged),
> but for the most part even the leaves that are submerged maintain a healthy
> look.
>
> Eventually I get roots long enough (about one-inch) to pot up – and I take
> advantage of the several inches of stem that has roots, by potting the
> entire section of stem with roots on it into a pot (this time potting in
> more of a horizontal fashion, rather than vertical), which will ultimately
> create multiple shoots of new growth, and I once-again have a
> happily-growing plant.
>
> *Lesson Learned*
> trauma, have withered somewhat and leaves are showing signs of stress.
>
> For these problems I turn, again, to good old-fashioned water.
>
> The first thing I do is get a nice deep bowl of water and Superthrive and
> submerge the entire cutting in the water. I leave it this way for a couple
> of days, then I rinse the Superthrive infused water out of the bowl and
> continue to keep the cutting submerged for a few more days until I feel the
> leaves begin to thicken/harden up to normal.
>
> At this time I decide what portion of the plant will continue to be
> submerged (including leaves), and keep that section that I wish to develop
> roots submerged in the water (make sure to change-out the water every couple
> of days). I often lose a few leaves in this process (they get waterlogged),
> but for the most part even the leaves that are submerged maintain a healthy
> look.
>
> Eventually I get roots long enough (about one-inch) to pot up – and I take
> advantage of the several inches of stem that has roots, by potting the
> entire section of stem with roots on it into a pot (this time potting in
> more of a horizontal fashion, rather than vertical), which will ultimately
> create multiple shoots of new growth, and I once-again have a
> happily-growing plant.
>
jen
Jul 11, 2008, 6:29:59 PM7/11/08
to Stemma
I root in the same mix I use for the rest of my plants, with no bottom
heat and no plastic bags. I use Rootone sometimes, try to put at
least 2 nodes under soil level, and push the cutting in so that the
first set of leaves are just at soil level, as I have always heard
that all the rooting hormones are at the nodes. I used to mist, but
got tired of the fungus gnats that were the result. Usually I have no
trouble, most of the cuttings I've lost were questionable in the first
place.
For very troublesome cuttings, like an Australis Lisa someone sent me
from Isreal that just kept withering away until it was 2 leaves and
about a quarter inch of a stem, I used perlite, then cover with a
plastic cup to make a little dome/greenhouse sort of thing. It
worked, and though it is still a very very very small plant, it is
alive and producing new leaves. I think I got the advice to try that
from all of you on DG last year.
heat and no plastic bags. I use Rootone sometimes, try to put at
least 2 nodes under soil level, and push the cutting in so that the
first set of leaves are just at soil level, as I have always heard
that all the rooting hormones are at the nodes. I used to mist, but
got tired of the fungus gnats that were the result. Usually I have no
trouble, most of the cuttings I've lost were questionable in the first
place.
For very troublesome cuttings, like an Australis Lisa someone sent me
from Isreal that just kept withering away until it was 2 leaves and
about a quarter inch of a stem, I used perlite, then cover with a
plastic cup to make a little dome/greenhouse sort of thing. It
worked, and though it is still a very very very small plant, it is
alive and producing new leaves. I think I got the advice to try that
from all of you on DG last year.
Ann Strahm
Jul 11, 2008, 8:21:35 PM7/11/08
to ste...@googlegroups.com
Jen that's exactly how I root my healthy cuttings - it's nice to be able to have them root and grow in the same pot. I love rooting hormone - particularly the gel kind. For cuttings I'm "afraid of" I also root in perlite. I rooted my cutting of lambii (thanks to a very nice man!) in perlite and had no problems.
Ann
Ann
dmichael
Jul 11, 2008, 8:39:05 PM7/11/08
to Stemma
the worst rooting experience i've ever had was using perlite. It was
the batch of D.L. cuttings from the order that Sara hosted. The
cuttings were the usual David Liddle cuttings and I cut them into as
many 2 node pieces as I could like I normally do. The only thing I did
different(Carols advice) was to try and root them in perlite instead
of my normal potting mix as I always do.One year later they were still
just sitting there doing absolutely nothing so one day I pulled one of
them out of its pot and there was very little to almost no root system
on the cutting and the perlite had compacted so tight I all but had to
pry it out of the pot. I immediately gathered every cutting from that
shipment and un potted them only to find the same thing going on in
each pot. From there I repotted them all using my normal methods of
rooting and within a few weeks they had all begun to grow and now they
are all nice big healthy plants.
I do mix a lot of perlite into my potting mix but will never use it
again as a rooting medium.
dmichael
the batch of D.L. cuttings from the order that Sara hosted. The
cuttings were the usual David Liddle cuttings and I cut them into as
many 2 node pieces as I could like I normally do. The only thing I did
different(Carols advice) was to try and root them in perlite instead
of my normal potting mix as I always do.One year later they were still
just sitting there doing absolutely nothing so one day I pulled one of
them out of its pot and there was very little to almost no root system
on the cutting and the perlite had compacted so tight I all but had to
pry it out of the pot. I immediately gathered every cutting from that
shipment and un potted them only to find the same thing going on in
each pot. From there I repotted them all using my normal methods of
rooting and within a few weeks they had all begun to grow and now they
are all nice big healthy plants.
I do mix a lot of perlite into my potting mix but will never use it
again as a rooting medium.
dmichael
jen
Jul 11, 2008, 9:01:57 PM7/11/08
to Stemma
I have always heard that perlite isn't a preferable method, and that
it encourages fungus growth. I remember with the Lisa cutting that
just as it was growing roots and ready to finally be taken out of the
perlite, I was getting some green fungus growing on the medium right
around the stem. Also, if using perlite, you would have to cover the
cuttings, because of the perlite drying out too fast....I don't think
I would use it again unless desperate because no other methods are
working.
Ann, I have never used gel rootone, I don't think I have ever seen it
for sale in the stores. I also like being able to keep my cuttings
in the same pots for a few months, it eliminates the early
transplanting step - which can also be a step that could shock the
plant and cause you to lose it, which I have had happen to me.
I read about all the ways of rooting cuttings on other forums, but I
think sometimes people put too much into it, most healthy cuttings
root pretty easily without any fuss! Like me, you all must remember
when you knew nothing about plants and just took a cutting and stuck
it into any old pot and it did fine. Too much knowledge can be
dangerous!!
it encourages fungus growth. I remember with the Lisa cutting that
just as it was growing roots and ready to finally be taken out of the
perlite, I was getting some green fungus growing on the medium right
around the stem. Also, if using perlite, you would have to cover the
cuttings, because of the perlite drying out too fast....I don't think
I would use it again unless desperate because no other methods are
working.
Ann, I have never used gel rootone, I don't think I have ever seen it
for sale in the stores. I also like being able to keep my cuttings
in the same pots for a few months, it eliminates the early
transplanting step - which can also be a step that could shock the
plant and cause you to lose it, which I have had happen to me.
I read about all the ways of rooting cuttings on other forums, but I
think sometimes people put too much into it, most healthy cuttings
root pretty easily without any fuss! Like me, you all must remember
when you knew nothing about plants and just took a cutting and stuck
it into any old pot and it did fine. Too much knowledge can be
dangerous!!
Ann Strahm
Jul 15, 2008, 2:40:25 AM7/15/08
to ste...@googlegroups.com
Here Here!!! Very good point!
Ann
I read about all the ways of rooting cuttings on other forums, but I
think sometimes people put too much into it, most healthy cuttings
root pretty easily without any fuss! Like me, you all must remember
when you knew nothing about plants and just took a cutting and stuck
it into any old pot and it did fine. Too much knowledge can be
dangerous!!
dandeeduo
Jul 15, 2008, 3:14:15 PM7/15/08
to Stemma
I agree with Ann and Jen and all the fuss about rooting. I remember
when I got my cuttings from David (dmichael not Liddle) and I asked
Sara about rooting and I did just as she advised. I put them in water
in brown beer bottles in the window sill and in a few weeks all but
one was rooted and in another couple weeks it too had rooted. Now all
are in pots and all but one are growing just fine. I am still waiting
for signs that pentaphelbia is going to grow. Looks very much alive
but no new growth. I can be patient. Sometimes I have read so much on
DG that my head spins and then I just forget what I have read and go
with my gut. Last time I said that it started quite an argument with
other DG'rs and I sure don't want to repeat that.
Dee
when I got my cuttings from David (dmichael not Liddle) and I asked
Sara about rooting and I did just as she advised. I put them in water
in brown beer bottles in the window sill and in a few weeks all but
one was rooted and in another couple weeks it too had rooted. Now all
are in pots and all but one are growing just fine. I am still waiting
for signs that pentaphelbia is going to grow. Looks very much alive
but no new growth. I can be patient. Sometimes I have read so much on
DG that my head spins and then I just forget what I have read and go
with my gut. Last time I said that it started quite an argument with
other DG'rs and I sure don't want to repeat that.
Dee
jen
Jul 15, 2008, 9:07:08 PM7/15/08
to Stemma
Dee, it isn't unusual for a cutting to just exist for a while before
showing any growth. I have had plenty that did that. Maybe since you
started it in water, it is taking longer as it establishes different
roots for soil growing, but as long as it looks ok it is probably
fine...I wonder if David's petaphelbia is the same one on MyHoyas, the
one with the pink centers - I have been lusting for that one as well,
I will have to ask him and add it to my ever growing list. If your
cutting came from his plants, it will do great.
showing any growth. I have had plenty that did that. Maybe since you
started it in water, it is taking longer as it establishes different
roots for soil growing, but as long as it looks ok it is probably
fine...I wonder if David's petaphelbia is the same one on MyHoyas, the
one with the pink centers - I have been lusting for that one as well,
I will have to ask him and add it to my ever growing list. If your
cutting came from his plants, it will do great.
dandeeduo
Jul 20, 2008, 7:42:48 PM7/20/08
to Stemma
I checked the petaphelbia again today which is hanging in a tree in my
front yard and low and behold I found three places where there is new
growth. Yeah! I tried to ignore fit or a while but always checking and
I think it is like the "watched pot" that never boils. And it is a
cutting from David.
front yard and low and behold I found three places where there is new
growth. Yeah! I tried to ignore fit or a while but always checking and
I think it is like the "watched pot" that never boils. And it is a
cutting from David.
got2...@live.com
Jul 23, 2008, 3:47:44 PM7/23/08
to Stemma
Dee, pentaphlebia is one of the hoyas that I think resides in my home
with the sole purpose of being a bane on my existence!!! I have had
this hoya grow, fail and die. Then I got another nice sized rooted
plant. It too failed (no growth step this time) and I cut it, re-
rooted it, and it is now existing. I am glad that your plant is
growing for you now. What a relief eh?
Jen, I love you, you know this is true, but I simply do not agree with
the theory that water roots are different than soil roots. I think
that roots are roots, and have rooted all of my hoyas the way Dee did,
with the beer bottles, and have seen dozens take off and grow while in
water, with no slowing down when planted in soil. Others I have water
rooted, and then had them sit upon planting in mix. Still others
wouldn't root in water at all, so I rooted them in soil mix, and they
just sat too. I think a lot has to do with the health of the tissue
of whatever particular hoya is being rooted.
I agree with Dee, watched pots, be they hoya or water, never boil!!
Heee Heeee
S
jen
Jul 23, 2008, 10:17:49 PM7/23/08
to Stemma
Sara, I must say I don't know a dang thing about roots. Other than
what I have read, anyway. I have had carnosas root in water and
transfer to soil just fine, and I have had a few fussier plants die
after going from water to dirt, but really I have not done much
rooting this way....mostly I just poke a hole in the dirt and stick
the cuttings in!
You have more experience with waterrooting than myself, so because of
that, I have to agree with you. Don't know what all those pesky
horticulturists are talking about.
(Oh, and I love you too. Glad we got THAT out of the way)
what I have read, anyway. I have had carnosas root in water and
transfer to soil just fine, and I have had a few fussier plants die
after going from water to dirt, but really I have not done much
rooting this way....mostly I just poke a hole in the dirt and stick
the cuttings in!
You have more experience with waterrooting than myself, so because of
that, I have to agree with you. Don't know what all those pesky
horticulturists are talking about.
(Oh, and I love you too. Glad we got THAT out of the way)
hoyagal Growing
Jul 24, 2008, 12:37:41 PM7/24/08
to ste...@googlegroups.com
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