Mlg22praww Manual

[Kayleen Dauteuil]

IMPORTANTDo not install or store the washer/dryer where it will be exposed to the weather. Do not store or operate the washer/dryer in temperatures at or below 32F (0C). Some water can remain in the washer and can cause damage in low temperatures. Proper installation is your responsibility.

IMPORTANT: The washer/dryer must be electrically grounded in accordance with local codes and ordinances or, in the absence of local codes, with the National Electrical Code, ANSI/NFPA 70, latest edition, or Canadian Electrical Code, CSA C22.1. If codes permit and a separate ground wire is used, it is recommended that a qualified electrical installer determine that the ground path is adequate.

A main vent can be used for venting a group of dryers. The main vent should be sized to remove 200 CFM of air per dryer. Largecapacity lint screens of proper design may be used in main vent if checked and cleaned frequently. The room where the dryers are located should have make-up air equal to or greater than CFM of all the dryers in the room.

Back-draft Damper Kit, Part No. 3391910, is available from your distributor and should be installed in the vent of each dryer to keep exhausted air from returning into dryers and to keep exhaust in balance within main vent. Unobstructed return air openings are required.

Each vent should enter the main vent at an angle pointing in the direction of the airflow. Vents entering from the opposite side should be staggered to reduce the exhausted air from interfering with the other vents.

This dryer is equipped for use with natural gas. It is design-certified by CSA International for propane and butane gases with appropriate conversion. No attempt shall be made to convert dryer from gas specified on serial/rating plate for use with a different gas without consulting the serving gas supplier.

A 1/8" (3 mm) NPT minimum plugged tapping, accessible for gauge testing, must be installed immediately downstream of the installed shut-off valve to the dryer (as shown above). The dryer must be disconnected from the gas supply piping system during any pressure testing of the system at test pressures in excess of 1/2" psig (352 kg/m2 ).

The supply line must be equipped with a manual shut-off valve installed within 6 ft. (1.8 m) of dryer in accordance with National Fuel Gas Code, ANSI Z223.1. This valve should be located in same room as dryer. It should be in a location that allows ease of opening and closing. Do not block access to shut-off valve. In Canada, an individual manual shut-off valve must be installed in accordance with the B149 installation codes CAN/CGA B149.1 and CAN/CGA B149.2.

IMPORTANT: Position the washer/dryer so that the rear of the washer is within approximately 3 ft. (900 mm) of its final location. There are four shipping bolts in the rear panel of the washer that support the suspension system during transportation. These bolts also retain the power cord inside the washer until the bolts are removed.

NOTE: To avoid damage to internal washer parts or the power cord, if the cord does not pull out of the washer rear panel easily, do not force it. Remove the washer rear panel and guide the power cord around the obstruction and out the hole on the left side of the rear panel.

IMPORTANT: If the washer/dryer is to be transported, call your product distributor or installer. To avoid suspension and structural damage, your washer/dryer must be properly set up for relocation by a trained professional.

NOTE: Replace inlet hoses after 5 years of use to reduce the risk of hose failure. Record hose installation or replacement dates on the hoses for future reference. Periodically inspect and replace hoses if bulges, kinks, cuts, wear, or leaks are found.

NOTE: The door will lock, the basket will rotate 1/2 turn, then the door will unlock and lock again, then the Washer Cleanout Cycle will continue. The washer will not fill, but the basket will rotate while the washer runs a short sensing cycle. This will take approximately 3 minutes.

If your dryer will not start and instead makes a clicking noise, it is most likely due to a fault with the door switch, start switch, or thermal fuse. A broken dryer belt is the next most likely cause of the issue. If these parts are working correctly, the drive motor, idler pulley, belt switch, control board, or timer may be responsible for the issue. Most of these repairs are easy to do; however, issues with the drive motor, control board, and timer may require more advanced knowledge.

The door switch on a dryer is another safety precaution designed to stop the dryer from operating when the dryer door is open. Sometimes, the door switch will malfunction or the connection becomes loose, causing the dryer to think the door is still open. Checking the door switch can be as easy as listening to the clicking sound of the door switch when you close the dryer door. If you can hear the door switch clicking, it is most likely working. However, it still pays to check the door switch with a multimeter.

If your dryer has a rotary or push-start switch to turn on the dryer, the switch may be responsible for your dryer not starting. The start switch can be tested with a multimeter to determine if it needs replacing.

The dryer belt wraps around the dryer drum. With the drive motor and idler pulley, the dryer belt rotates the dryer drum. If the dryer is clicking but not starting, it could be because the dryer belt has broken or become loose. Try turning the dryer drum manually. If it turns without any resistance, the dryer belt likely needs to be replaced or refitted.

The idler pulley helps the dryer belt to rotate the dryer drum by keeping the belt tight on the drum. The idler pulley should be examined to see if the pulley wheel can turn and that the dryer belt is correctly threaded through the pulley.

Some dryers have a belt switch, which turns off your dryer if the dryer belt breaks. The switch is located near the idler pulley and is activated when the broken belt releases the idler pulley. It can be tested with a multimeter to determine if it needs replacing.

We kindly request you to inform us if anyone in the vicinity who are not feeling well. We also kindly ask customers to keep distance from our technicians and keep children away upon our arrival and while we work.

While all the error codes are listed in the user manual of your appliance, it is easy to lose this document over time. Especially if you bought your machine years ago. In this article, we will cover all the error codes in detail and offer their solutions so you can do some DIY Maytag washer troubleshooting.

This occurs when the communication between the Central Control Unit and the EEPROM is hindered which leads to the washer stopping in mid-cycle. This can be caused due to power surge or power interruption.

This error code suggests an underlying problem with the Motor Control Unit and voltage regulator. Usually, this leads to an interrupted high-speed spin. You will notice that the door unlocks within 3 minutes.

This error code is displayed when the pressure switch is not tripped after 6 minutes. You might find that the machine stops working at the beginning of the cycle, the door is locked and the drum does not have any water. The problem is usually with the main water supply.

The is one of the common Maytag error codes and appears when there is a possible problem with the drain. Your washer will stop mid-cycle and the door will remain locked. The drum will still have the water and it may take more than 8 minutes for the draining. The water valves may also switch off.

If there is a shut down during a high-speed spin and this error is displayed, it suggests that the Drive Motor Tachometer which produced analogue voltage for your washer. If this is damaged, the washer will not recognize motor speed and will shut off.

Indicate problems with the door lock assembly communicating with the control board. Essentially, the control board does not beleive the door is closed and/or locked, so it shuts down the machine.

Here is the service manual which will tell you how to do some testing of the door lock, but in the end you may need both a control board and a door lock assembly. The good news, they are easy to change out, the bad news, they are expensive parts so you want to be as sure as possible before you buy and install.

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