Cycle analyst settings

[covert]

Hi all, I got my self a second hand bomber and wanted to know what are
the suggested cycle analyst settings.
What is the amp setting to get full power and what is the safe low
battery limit?
Is there a setting that will run the battery down to a limit then go
to a limp home mode ?
Or does the battery go until a point that it just stops and leaves you
stranded?

I have the 4500 watt motor but I dont see anymore than 3700 watts on
the cycle analyst at full load ( amps set at 65 amps), is this normal
or is there a problem ?
I did have the hub motor stop after a steep hill and the guys at
Bomber found that the insulation on the wires to the hub motor were
melted and led to a short. They repaired these but the bike just does
not seem to have the same initial grunt as it did before the fault.
Controller has been rechecked and stated to be fine, as well as the
battery checked out fine.
Any suggestions?
I have been very impressed with the guys at bomber ,they have been
very helpful and willing to repair these faults despite the bike being
secondhand. The postage makes things a little difficult though
thanks for any advice

[Paul_G]

Hey Covert

Question for you....how many watt hours were used when the battery goes dead at 72 volts low limit?

settings are 65 amps

low volt cut out 72....any lower wont get you much more range but could damage the battery. 

no limp home mode as you just watch how many watt hours till empty and then you know in the future your range to the mile....works great.

my amps are set to 65 max but it will show spikes to 101 amps.

After fixing the CA setting I now see a max draw around 5000 watts

I have a new Bomber with 1100 miles on it but when new all it would pull was 3700 watts and the battery would drop dead at 1080 watts but battery should hold 1500 watts. They sent me a 2nd battery but it was the same....1080 till dead.

If your CA's RShunt value is wrong it screws everything up.....see this topic to see how I fixed it: https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!topic/stealth-electric-bikes/URTKnd_Wanw

It sounds like it just may be the same but the power loss is diff, unless the RShunt values are way out and its limiting power?

first you need to make sure you can trust the CA's readings and go from there, so if no meter the EZ test is run till battery is dead and see how many WH's. 

Paul G

[Paul_G]

Basically you need to go into the advanced setup menu on the CA and adjust the RS shunt value.... with the motor running at WOT on a stand adjust the RS shunt value.  I can't remember if you need to adjust the value up or down but try going either way by 0.1 and you'll see it straight away.  But you need a meter to see if the CA and meter has the same amps.

R-shunt 1.056 did the trick, I used WOT to set the amps as that stayed the same 4.96-5 no load amps recorded on both the CA and amp-probe. 

001 changes it by a few amps.

Recharging the battery and I'll go test it but I was stupid as there is an EZ way to see if its close. its a 4500 watt motor, run WOT on the road and watch if it reads near 4500. I was reading 3700 area.  

Meter is a Craftsman #82369 at $59....most Amp Probes won't read DC volts.

So once you know all values are correct you can trouble shoot a problem far EZ'er 

if that's not your problem and the CA and meter are the same amps (I bet they are off) then I would test the battery's watt hours to empty and see if the battery was damaged when the motor shorted.

Paul G