I use CoffeeCup HTML Editor (
https://www.coffeecup.com/html-editor/ ). I purchased it for $29 (still that price). They have a free one which I used for a short time, but having worked in HTML since version 1 -- I went for the "full" program. Expression Web (free) is still available for download, but given you were a Dreamweaver user, I don't believe you would like it (based on my experience). I loved Dreamweaver too, until they priced themselves out of use by "regular people". The CoffeeCup HTML Editor works for me. CoffeeCup has a free FTP program too, but I prefer Core FTP LE (free version).
Lynda Coffman Peach
Asst. MOGenWeb State Coordinator & Tech Advisor
Grundy, Sullivan, Linn, Livingston County (Missouri) coordinator