Ifyour router supports getting IP from a DHCP Server, You could configure it to do this. But if it does not support to be in the DHCP-client mode, You can set a static IP on it and then exclude its IP address on your DHCP Server to avoid IP conflict issues in your network.
Note: Since original Firmware 2.05WW Build: 05Beta01 it is not possible to flash OpenWrt via the firmware update page. (worked on a B2 revision with Ubuntu's Firefox in 2.05NA and 2.06NA)It looks like Firmware 2.01EU behaves the same way. Please use the firmware recovery mode instead.
First, for familiarity you can look at the concept of flash.layout. It is also recommended that you know flash layout of DIR-825 before generic.sysupgrade, generic.backup, generic.debrick or failsafe_and_factory_reset.
The DIR-825 has 11 blue and 2 orange LEDs: The four LAN LEDs are controlled by the switch chip. By default they show link and blink for activity. They are LED Bank 0. To configure the RealTek RTL8366S, you can use swconfig, e.g.
The WPS (WiFi Protected Setup) button is located at the right side (or the top when standing) and can be easily pressed with a finger. Also the WPS LED is integrated into the Button. For some unknown reason this control is named powersave in various places.
He used two Samsung K4H511638D-UCB3 chips from Samsung DDR SODIMM 512 MB. Maybe other chips from other manufacturers can be used, only they has to have 32Mx16 organization. Chips with other organization, such as 64Mx8, are not suitable.
Next to the soldering, the bootloader (U-Boot) and the calibration data partition has to be changed, because the D-Link bootloader/calibration data partition does not start with the 128 MB RAM. He used the bootloader/calibration data partition from Netgear WNDR3700. It's done through a full reflash, check the forum for the binary. It turn the D-Link DIR-825 into an Netgear WNDR3700.
I was able to upload the openwrt-ar71xx-generic-dir-825-b1-squashfs-factory.bin in recovery mode with Internet Explorer with compatibility view enabled (menu Tools/Compatibility View). Without it it was loading forever. Other browsers (Chrome, Firefox, Opera) were not working. Tested with Windows and Linux. Also I switched my 1Gbit cart into 100Mbit mode.
It may be necessary to run the original firmware and configure the device at least once. I flashed the router right away using the firmware recovery interface which resulted in configuration problems in OpenWrt. All wireless network devices did not have valid MACs instead they used 00:00:00:00:00:00 and refused therefore to work properly. Even trying to read the MAC from the sysfs failed. After flashing the original firmware and configuring the device once using the D-Link Webinterface everything worked as expected after flashing OpenWrt again.
You will find here only the LAN (green) and WAN (red) interfaces. Now we will have to add the VLAN-Interface ( I called it GLAN, you can call it GAN - it doesn't matter) - the G because of the global IPs!
The DIR-825 requires some rather peculiar TCP settings, and relies on some broken IE6 behaviour, which is why flashing with Firefox on Linux (or Firefox on Windows) doesn't work. The ruby script on the next section does *NOT* always work for this reason (perhaps due to different versions of ruby or underlying OS having different defaults).
I therefore have hacked on (it's not nearly my best work) a basic 'C' program that flashes the DIR-825 (and probably DIR-600/601 as well). It uses the HTTP headers as IE6 and uses the required TCP settings under Linux.
The D-Link Xtreme N Dual Band Gigabit Router (DIR-825) uses dual band technology to support 2.4GHz & 5GHz wireless signals at the same time. This allows you to check e-mail and browse the Internet using the 2.4GHz band while simultaneously streaming High-Definition (HD) movies and other media on the 5GHz band. The DIR-825 is designed for users looking to get a true HD wireless connection that can handle multiple HD video streams throughout the house, while being backward compatible with existing 802.11g and 802.11a products.
7. Select the "factory-to-ddwrt_XX.bin" file you downloaded and click the Send button to flash your router. As the firmware is uploaded and installed you will see the screen start counting to 100 percent. The power light will remain out during this process. At 100% the power light the power light will flash yellow and the router will reboot. The router globe will be yellow, the power will be blue, the 2.4/5GHz will be flashing blue.
NOTE: as of November 2017: The factory-to-ddwrt files from builds 14280 and later DO NOT appear to load with the hidden firmware upgrade menu when the B1 version router is running the factory version 2.07NA. Use the one from build 13832 located here [1] Unfortunately this firmware is very buggy and it may require that you do a command-line update to a newer version of dd-wrt as shown here as the webflash with it may fail. It also appears to run very slowly and the lights on the router do not show as described in these instructions. When I worked with it I had to configure the router IP address and default gateway from the command line since the web interface kept crashing. **FIXED in current releases --Kernel-panic69 23:31, 18 December 2021 (CET)
1. Download the latest "dir825-firmware.bin" firmware upgrade file from the same FTP server as the initial flash files above are found. Go back to parent directory and use the latest posted build and then go back to the "dlink-dir825-revb" folder and take the -firmware.bin file. See Where do I download firmware? for links.
4. Click "browse" button -> select the "dir825-firmware.bin" file -> click "Upgrade" button. It will take about 2 minutes to upload and write the flash. Your browser will reload and let you know when it is done.
Step 1: Plug in the new router (the one you will use as the access point) to a electrical outlet, and use a straight-through network cable to hook your computer up to it in one of the LAN slots (1-4). Note: Do not connect the new router to anything else just yet. That will come in later steps.
Change the IP address of this new router so it is in the same subnet as the main router (I changed mine to 192.168.0.2), but make sure it does not have the same IP address as the main router.
This looks like exactly what I want to do. One question: can I plug other devices into the 3 remaining LAN ports on the 2nd router. i essentially want an access point that supplies wireless and wired connections.
I would like to use my d-link as an access point or repeater. My main computer is on the second floor, the other in the basement. I would like to just plug ( electrically) in this access router on the first floor for more wireless range. Can I do this, because i seem to get drop offs every now and then with only the one router.
Yes- plug the computer in directly the the router in question to change the settings. It either requires you taking your laptop there, or moving the router to your comp.. either should be fairly low effort. Sorry for the delayed reply.
I have a question .. if you can please help me out .. I have converted my dlink router into an access point by mistake.and now I am unable to get the login page of the router on 198.168.0.1 .Please tell me how i can do that. I shall be very thankful to u for the same..
Many Thanks in Advance.
Krity.
I just moved in to a new apartment. I am trying to do this, but got to the last step and running an ethernet cable from the main router (owned by the apartment and located down the hallway) is not an option. I would like the signal to be re-transmitted strictly wirelessly (apartment router >>> wireless >>> my router >>> wireless >>> my laptop).
i live near enough to neibors routers and i dont have cable or net service to my place. but is it possible to just use a wireless adapter and a coverted router (repeater) to pick up signal from neibors ? thanks
hi there Hciguy,
I have a DI-624 I have set up as an access point as per your instructions and its been working great thank you. But now I want to restrrict anyone that conects to the AP via wireless to only be able to connect to the internet. ie. NOT have access to my files ect which are shared on my LAN. your help would be very much appreciated. Thanks
Hi Dennis, it is possible that there is an IP conflict with the powerline. It sounds like you have 2 routers and a powerline right? Also ensure that the wires are hooked up correctly: remember to connect the routers via LAN (1-4) on both routers.
Basic thing trying to extend the wireless coverage to a computer about 75ft away from a Dlink DIR-655 router using a extender antenna already attached to it. I have another Dlink DIR-655 I plan on using and Belkin Powerline adapter kit that has 2 of these. This area trying to do this is in a Church that was built in the 50s and it is hard from reception for Cell phones.
I have went through your steps to the T. I am using the 2 Dlink DIR-655s Setting up to step 4 works great but when trying to connect the to a Belkin Powerline adapter kit which is about 15 ft from where the 1st router is using the Network cable and then having the other Powerline adapter connected to the wall about 50 ft away and I have the 2nd DIR-655 connected to that right next to it.
When trying to access the second DIR-655 from the computer in the back of the room it does not allow me to connect to the Internet or get into the Router Login page for the second one that I have the 1st one 192.168.0.1 and the second 192.168.0.2 just like you described.
I have a setup that uses powerline adaptor plugs. The main router/modem (netgear dg834 V2, not usable as a repeater) is plugged into the powerline adapter 1 upstairs. I have another router (dlink dir 615) that I want to be able to plug into the powerline adapter 2 to pick up the internet signal from the router/modem. The powerline plugs are in effect replacing the ethernet lead between the netgear modem/router and the dlink 615 router.
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