Mutations are primarily permanent changes in the DNA strand. DNA(deoxyribonucleic acid) is the information storage unit for all organisms,including humans, cats, and dogs. In humans, the DNA consists of about threebillion base pairs. The DNA is made of two strands and forms a double helix.In sexual reproduction, one set of chromosomes (large segments of DNA)comes from the mother and one set from the father. In asexual reproduction,the DNA is copied whole and then passed along when the organism splits.
Think of it like Morse code. Morse code is a system in which letters arerepresented by dashes and dots (if audible, then it is a long sound and shortsound). When you combine different dots and dashes, you can spell out lettersand words. Here is a copy of Morse code:
With this point mutation, we lost the information for one word (car)as well as changed the meaning of the sentence. We did gain one word (cat),but we lost one word (car) and lost the meaning of one phrase. So the overallresult was a loss of information.
With this point mutation, we lost the information for one word (car) aswell as the meaning. We did not gain any new words, and we lost one wordand lost the meaning of one phrase. So again, the overall result of this pointmutation was a loss of information, but even more so this time.
With inversion mutations, we can lose quite a bit of information. Welost several words from, and the meaning of, the second sentence. Thesemutations can cause serious problems to the organism. The bleeding disorderhemophilia A is caused by an inversion in the Factor VIII (F8) gene.
A deletion mutation is a segment of DNA, whether a single base pair oran extensive length, that is deleted from the strand. This will be an obviousloss. In this instance, the second sentence will be deleted.
The entire second sentence has been lost. Thus, we have lost its meaningas well as the words that were in the sentence. Some disorders from deletionmutations are facioscapulohumeral muscular dystrophy (FSHD) and spinalmuscular atrophy.5
Pond-scum-to-people evolution teachesthat, over time, by natural causes,nonliving chemicals gave rise toa living cell. Then, this single-celledlife form gave rise to moreadvanced life forms. In essence,over millions of years, increasesin information caused by mutationsplus natural selectiondeveloped all the life forms wesee on earth today.
However, when man sinned against God (Genesis 3), God cursed theground and the animals, and He sentenced man to die (Genesis 2:17; 3:19).At this time, God seemed to withdraw some of His sustaining power to nolonger completely uphold everything in a perfect state.
Since then, we would expect mutations to occur and DNA flaws toaccumulate. The incredible amount of information that was originally in theDNA has been filtered out, and in many cases lost, due to mutations andnatural selection.
Over time, as people increased on the earth, God knew that mutationswere rising within the human population and declared that people should nolonger intermarry with close relatives (Leviticus 18). Why did He do this?Intermarriage with close relatives results in the possibility of similar geneticmutations appearing in a child due to inheriting a common mutation fromboth the father and mother. If both parents inherited the same mutated genefrom a common ancestor (e.g., a grandparent), this would increase the possibilityof both parents passing this mutated gene along to their child.
The washer displayed the SUD error message, so I left it alone and eventually the message went away and was replaced with error code F02. After research, I found that this error code is due to not draining. I have done all the suggested things to make sure that drain is not plugged up or kinked etc. I cannot find any "clean out" on my model washer. The drum spins freely if I turn it by hand. Is there anything else I can try to get the washer running again? Do I have to get a service technician to come out and look at it?
I did it all 2 years ago I had the F02 code and did exactly what you said and buying a new drain pump fixed my problem. Now I'm having the same problem. I have checked the hose and all the fittings. I have put in a new drain pump and now it is still doing the F02. What can it be if it isn't the pump?
very easy fix for me. The F02 code was for filter in the pump just open the pump by turning the knob and watch out, if you have water in your washer it will drain out. the filter/pump assembly was full of soap scum and lint all mixed up. Once I clean out, all is good. Sears wanted to charge me $100 to come out and try to sell me a new pump.
If you can't find anything in the coin trap & the hose isn't kinked, take a flashlight and shine through the bottom of the drum. Something small may have gotten under the drum and be stuck in the drain. You can see it with your light.
I would start by taking the lower front panel off. There are two bolts, one on each side of the panel, remove those. Once you have the panel removed, you will see a white plastic unit, that is your pump assembly. You should also see a round plug with a plastic tab across the front. That is your coin trap. Open the cap by twisting it counterclockwise and remove it. It may just be clogged.
I just had the same problem. I did all the above including cleaning out the coin trap, the only thing I found was a small plastic thing about the size of a multi-vitamin and some gunk buildup on the sides, which i cleaned out, put everything back together and it seems to be working fine now. Doesn't seem like that small thing would have caused all that problem, but at least it's working fine now.
Thank you for your guidance. Sure wish there was a way to deal with the water that came out of the trap, I used a very shallow tray to slide under the washer to catch most of it, had to mop up the rest - oh well, floor is clean now :)
This site (and the people who contribute) are lifesavers. Thank you. Using the guidance above, I removed the lower panel (mine had three bolts) and coin trap cover (be prepared for water) and found a small amount of the expected debris in the coin trap. Not enough, I thought, to block the flow. Poking around, I felt something soft in the short pipe between the coin trap canister and the pump, which turnd out to be one of my wife's trouser stockings. Bottom line, the coin trap isn't a very good guard filter for the pump.
JoAnn, I posted a picture with the screw location to the original answer. It is from the service manual that you can download, by clicking on the link in the original answer. Hope this helps, good luck.
OK, I see many repeats of the same good advice and a few jerks telling those of us who either want or have to do the work ourselves to call a tech. Next time I find the place that the tech will work for free I will call them, for right now THAT is my budget.
4) With many towels at hand, unscrew that strainer. Clean out anything there. Check the port inside the cavity and to the right (towards the motor). This is the direction of the waterflow. See that there are no obstructions in there. Should just be the motor's impeller.
5) When the unit runs, do you hear the drain pump run? That is the motor connected to the right of the trap you just examined. If not (at all) or if it sounds like a garbage disposal with a few coins in it, we might have a problem with electricity not getting to it (doubtful) or it has gone bad - Note if you smell something almost burning when it runs, and furthermore, if it was just running, this baby will be hot!. Yes, you can pay nearly $200 for one of these if you really try, but you should be able to find a good replacement on Amazon or eBay for under $90, including shipping (I paid $65.00). ALL you want is the motor/impeller assembly - you so very most likely do not need the plastic trap and all unless you have a problem with giant rats that like to eat that plastic - my point being: I can't imagine in normal circumstances how you would ever need that plastic assembly replaced. The motor is attached to the assembly by three easy-to-remove screws.
6) Before shelling out your hard earned cash on the motor, IF you have had the unit for a while (mine is 12 years old) you easily could have junk built up around the ball valve, which is located at the base of the tub in the accordion hose that comes off the left back of the strainer assembly if you are facing the front of it. Mine is black and goes from the back of the strainer right up to the underside of the tub. You will have to remove both clamps - one on the back of the strainer and one around the fitting of it around the base underside of the tub. If they were not cheap spring clamps, it would be very easy, but with a little fighting with a pair of pliers, you can get it done (easier off than on...). I found a couple children's socks and a whole load of gray-black slime in mine!!! Also, up in the inside cavity of where the black accordion boot attaches to the underside of the tub, is the channel water goes through which should be inspected (by feel) for any more gunk.
I had to post because in my reading I never found any mention of this rubber boot - ball-valve assembly, but as mine was logically the next place to check, and indeed, horribly plugged with junk from over the years, I had to add my 2 cent's worth here for all the other folk herein have helped me out tremendously.
This list worked for me... thank you!! Note: I bench tested the pump and it worked... so I didn't waste $ ordering one I didn't need. Try it but BE CAREFUL... connecting bald wires to a 110v pump can be dangerous and tricky. I used a plug bar to switch it on, after I made the risky connection. sjr
One additional observation - After finding that my motor did in fact work, though was not running, the two other possibilities I could think of were 1) Wiring, and 2) The main control (computer) board that with the top of the machine removed and looking down at everything is normally center-back. A service that offers to do diagnostics on these highly recommended that I send mine in to them for testing for they said that they never heard of the main board being the problem with a no-rum drain pump. Now, I was on my SECOND main board for I had just received a used replacement. Since I tested the wiring and it was all connected, I chose to try another board anyway. There is a nice place that sells refurbished GUARANTEED boards for about $85 out there (New, these buggers run a good $225 or so). Replacing the board solved the problem. Hmmmm, they, who test these boards day in and day out never heard this happening, but it happened to me on two boards in a row, what are the odds....
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