Patternmaker Los Angeles
Milba Vanpatten
Apparel patternmakers draft patterns based on a designer's sketch of a style. The designer gives the sketch to the patternmaker, who can ask questions to determine details the designer is looking for.[1]
Patterns may be drafted on paper or in a computer program designed for patternmaking. Most of the time, in modern American samplerooms, the patternmaker pulls an existing pattern (or block) and makes a modified copy of it to match the new style, either on paper or on computer. If the style is completely new, the patternmaker will usually drape a rough draft in muslin fabric on a dress form, then show it to the designer to discuss any changes before transferring the markings to paper to create the pattern for cutting. Patterns may also be drafted from measurements, this method can also produce well fitting garments as long as the patternmaker has a good handle on shapes and balance. Patternmakers are also asked to copy existing garments without damaging them. This is a common practice in American samplerooms.
Patternmakers have a combination of engineering and design skill. They need to be able to understand what the designer wants, and translate that into the lines of a pattern that will cause the garment to fit correctly. Ideally, the pattern captures not only the fit, but also the flair intended by the designer.
Patternmaking is taught in conjunction with fashion design education, as it is vital for designers to understand the apparel development process. It is also taught as a major at certain trade schools. There are many books on the subject, but it is rare for a patternmaker to become a professional through teaching oneself. Apprenticeships are almost unheard of in modern America, but would serve well to improve the transition from student to professional status. Because this occupation is relatively unknown outside of the apparel industry, there is a serious lack of patternmakers who can accurately interpret designs in Los Angeles, and possibly other fashion capitals.
Mannequins attired in some of the latest creations crafted by designer Su Kim dot the vast space while racks filled with patterns constructed by patternmaker Jim Kim are strategically placed around the design studio.
Kim and her father are sticking to the tried-and-true formula for quality blue jeans that transformed Los Angeles into the center for premium-denim jeans at the turn of the century when brands such as True Religion, 7 For All Mankind and J Brand marched onto the fashion scene.
At that time, these pricy brands, which commanded up to $300 for a pair of pants, were completely manufactured in Los Angeles, keeping denim factories and wash houses on a busy production schedule. But now that big corporations and private-equity firms have taken over these name brands, much of that high-end blue-jeans production has gone to Mexico and other overseas areas in search of lower costs.
The Kim family has a long history of working in the Los Angeles denim industry. Jim Kim came to the United States in 1992 as a patternmaker after he and his wife, Jong, ran a custom-made dress shop in Seoul, South Korea.
In the collection, which retails for $180 to $250, there are various silhouettes including skinny jeans, high-rise jeans, ripped jeans, cropped denim with wide legs and denim with rough edges and impeccable washes. The brand now goes beyond blue jeans to create denim jumpsuits; denim tops with a girly, girly look; dresses; and knit tops.
For Spring 2018, Free People ordered two styles, online website Revolve will be carrying the line, and several small boutiques around the country will continue to hang the label on their racks. The brand is represented by the Hasson Costa showroom in The New Mart.
Right now, the brand is producing about 400 blue jeans a month, about double what it did last year, but Jim Kim said he can make up to 1,500 pair of jeans a month before he has to find an outside contractor.
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