I’ve said it before I’ll say it again THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS _AN_
AUTOCORRELATION IN A MARKOV CHAIN.
Consider a target distribution, pi, a Markov transition, T, and some
function whose expectation we want to take, f. Asymptotically
\lim_{N \rightarrow \infty} \sum_{n = 1}^{N} f(x_{n}) = E_{pi} [ f ].
Given some nicer regularity conditions (usually we need at least
geometric ergodicity) then the MCMC estimator
\sum_{n = 1}^{N} f(x_{n})
converges in distribution to
N( E_{pi} [ f ], sigma^{2} / ESS )
where sigma is the true variance of f under pi and ESS is the
effective sample size,
ESS = N / (1 + \sum_{l = 1}^{\infty} rho_{l} ),
where l is the lag-l autocorrelation of f. This is called the MCMC
central limit theorem.
The important thing to keep in mind here is that the autocorrelations
depend on f! There is no way to define a canonical autocorrelation
for the chain itself. So some functions can have large autocorrelations
and some can have small autocorrelations _in the same chain_.
Intuitively, the more a function varies the more it relies on the fine
details of the target distribution, the longer it will need the Markov
chain to converge, and the larger the autocorrelations will be.
Your PCA is just constructing a function as sensitive to the spatial
scales as possible, yielding larger autocorrelations but that has
absolutely nothing to do with the other expectations and does not
indicate that those ESS calculations are wrong.
The only caveat is that we have access to only ESS _estimates_
and we have to worry about how accurate those estimates can
be. But these kinds of analyses do not provide any such utility.
Finally, assuming that the MCMC CLT holds you define the number
of steps you need by first determining how well you need to estimate
E_{pi} [ f ] and then running until
MCSE = sqrt{ sigma^{2} / ESS }
achieves that desired precision. MCSE is printed along with the
other Stan summaries.