What To Do If Your Slab Is Cracked

[Karoline]

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Not sure where Chief builds that they don't do this, but when I try to adjust manually for a 1.5" drop for the slab on a porch or patio, it just drops the pad and not the beams. I'm sure there's a simple fix, but I haven't been able to find it.

I'm sure there is too but I'm a little confused by your description of the issue. A drawing with notes, or better yet a plan file, and a better explanation of what you're after, would get you a quick solution.

I'm not 100% sure what your talking about but I'll give it a shot. If you want to lower the porch slab and keep the porch beam hgt at the same hgt of the main floor, then just change the two numbers next to the red arrows in my pic and it should drop the floor and leave the clg/beam height of the porch alone.

Post the plan and Ill take a look. Just a guess but it sounds like the stem wall top isn't following be top of the slab. Make sure BOTH fields have the same number. There are other factors that could be affecting this as well but it's all just a guess until you post the plan.

Chris, When it's unspecified it looks like this When I change the room to a patio it goes to this (no clue why) but it should drop the slab 1.5" and allow me to put a threshold in. Not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things, but I should be able to get it accurate, I would think. Chief doesn't get what a porch / patio is, apparently.

And I have to go and delete the base and flooring, which is no big deal (just extra time), but I should be able to set defaults for the room. Garage is goofy too...does a similar thing. I've tried adjusting default for patio and just get a bunch of different things that aren't right.

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Don,

At a bare minimum, you should install vertical rigid foam at the perimeter of your slab. The most vulnerable area of your slab is near the door threshold of your walk-out side. With this type of basement slab, it is essential that you have at least 2 or 3 feet of vertical rigid foam to protect your foundation on the walk-out side. On the other three sides, the strips of vertical foam should be at least as wide as the thickness of your slab.

When it comes to horizontal foam under your slab, you probably don't need it in your climate zone from a heat-loss perspective. However, if you include at least 1 inch of horizontal rigid foam under your slab -- 2 inches is even better -- you will reduce the chance that your slab will be cold enough to encourage condensation. This will mean that your basement stays dry and mold-free, and that you will be able to install carpeting on your slab if you ever want to.

What he said regarding the horizontal foam. At your summertime dew points and regional subsoil temperatures even an inch of EPS (R4) under the slab alone with IRC 2012 code-min or better basement wall insulation for your climate (US zone 4A) goes a long way toward eliminating the "musty basement" smell. If you're going to put down a finish floor with rugs (or stack cardboard boxes on the slab) this is huge. Consider R4 a minimum, not an optimal, but it may be close to optimal if you have very dry soil and your heating energy fuels are cheap.

The vertical slab-edge foam needs to be R10 minimum, which would be 2.5" if EPS, 2" if XPS. Since the R-value of XPS falls over a handful of decades to that of EPS of equal thickness & density, if you intend the house to be around 50+ years you might as well go with EPS (which is cheaper per R anyway, and uses much more benign blowing agents.)

Code for basement wall-R in zone 4 is also R10 continuous insulation, or R13 between studs. Installing studs up against concrete that can wick ground moisture is a universally bad practice. But trapping 1" EPS against the foundation with a studwall (seams taped, edges sealed with can-foam), and using cheap "contractor roll" kraft-faced (never foil faced) R11s or R13s in the cavities will get you slightly better than code performance cheaply. If you install the wall foam before pouring the slab, making the sub-slab foam continuous with the wall foam thermally breaks the slab edge from the cool soil temps of the sub-grade part of the basement.

I put aluminum between the bottom plate and concrete floors. We even retrofit aluminum under existing PT plates, when the basement is damp

( this dries the PT plates and the studs that are attached).

For whatever reason, when my house was built in 1967, they didn't use PT on any of the sills, but put aluminum underneath the sills. To date zero rot or damp sills.

Your floor assembly isn't the norm in most of the US yet. I suspect that's another reason for the advice hesitancy. The first impression many people would have of the word 'basement' is a cool, somewhat damp space used for storage, with bare floors and walls. Your basement would probably be fine without a PT sill plate, but again for the small marginal cost, I'd still use it anyways. $100 is cheap compared to explaining your floor assembly to others every time a question is asked about it.

I can get behind this argument, though in my case I have salvaged a ton of lumber so the price difference would be more like $350 with current lumber prices since I would use lumber I have gotten for free. It's true that its not a huge percentage of the project, but I am also not building new (moved a house onto new foundation) and using a lot of reclaimed and salvaged materials i've been saving over many years. For me it represents a larger percentage of total cost, though i'm still not trying to risk rot over $350 bucks so point taken.

Like Malcolm wrote it's the standard way of doing it in Canada and it's actually smarter than using a PT plate. A PT plate won't rot but can still wick water to studs or anything touching it. Treat the cause not the symptom. Use a capillary break.

In your case, the slab is not in direct contact with the ground due to the foam and vapor barrier. Using a sill sealer also serves to separate the wood with an impervious moisture barrier. So code-wise, you're probably OK.

But there is another case to be made for PT sills. Basements flood. Every basement will experience a flood at some point. PT sills make the cleanup a little bit easier, since it is very hard to dry the moisture that collects between the sill and the slab. If you also hold the drywall up an inch or so and use plastic baseboards, the most frequent small (less than 1") floods are not even cleanup level events. Seems like cheap insurance.

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