AUTODATA 5.45 Crack FULL 64 Bit
Latrina Cobbett
Changing the wetbelts requires loads of special tools. Apart from the locking tools (included in the timing tool kit from your link) you also need a 5:1 torque multiplier and mounting adapters to remove and install the (keyless) crankshaft pulley. Without this torque multiplier it is impossible to tighten the crankshaft bolt to the correct torque and angle.
The torque multiplier is a very expensive tool. The original Ford torque multiplier will cost several thousands. As an alternative the pictures above show the aftermarket AST torque multiplier kit (also sold under different brand names). This torque multiplier uses the exact same gear ratio as the original Ford torque multplier. This kit will cost approximately 800,-.
Laser tools also sells a torque multiplier and adapter kit for the 1.0 ECOboost. This torque multiplier however has a different gear ratio and comes with recalculated torque/angle values to tighten the crankshaft bolt. The laser torque multiplier and adapter kit for the 1,0 ECOboost will cost approximately 500,-.
I happened to be browsing my Haynes manual just yesterday to see when my Mk3 is due for a belt change. It's only done around 39,000 miles but is 8 years old. The Haynes quotes replacement at 10 years. When I read through the procedure for changing it I was horrified at the complexity of the job. I wouldn't have been contemplating doing it myself anyway as advancing years means I have to delegate major work to a garage but the cost of this job must be astronomical. I'm considering whether to just get rid before it needs doing. I won't be buying another Ford if so.
The main reason for doing it is to save expensive engine damage...but in this case it'll be cheaper to replace the engine. I suspect most will just run them until they snap then buy another car. In theory, a wet belt should last much longer than the dry belts which were rated for 10 years on previous engines...just don't use any oil flushes!
Changing the wetbelt on a Focus MK3/MK3.5 is tight. There is not much space near the engine. On a Fiesta MK7.5 however there is even less space. Some mechanics consider it to be quicker to remove the engine from the car when changing the wetbelt on a Fiesta.
I suspect that in 2022 when the 1st examples of the 1,0 ECOboost become 10 Years old the market will be flooded with these cars. Many people will get rid of the car because of the high costs to have the wetbelt changed. As a result of this the prices will drop significantly.
It may be tempting to have the wetbelt replaced by an independent local mechanic. However very few independent mechanics do not have any experience or tools to change the wetbelt of a 1.0 ECOboost correctly.
My car is currently 7 Years old and I have to make the decision to sell the car while it is still worth a fair amount of money or keep the car for a few more Years. My car has a very low mileage (only 40.000 KM) and if I decide to keep it I will replace the wetbelt next Year. On cars that are often used for short trips the quality of the engine oil degrades pretty quick. When the engine oil is not changed regularly this can result in premature wetbelt failure. Ford considers driving short trips to be one of the severe conditions that require a reduced service interval.
The original torque multiplier has a true torque multiplication ratio of 5:1 However because of the gearbox losses of the torque multiplier itself the actual gear ratio will be approximately 5.45:1
The problem with 1.0 ECOboost engines that are mainly used for short trips or cars that are not used for weeks is that the engine oil degrades pretty fast. This is a known symptom of the WSS-M2C948-B engine oil. Condensation inside the engine causes the additives of the engine oil to debond. This causes a sludge that can clogg the oil pump completely. Another problem is that the degraded engine oil can also deteriorate the material of the wetbelt. Wetbelt failure on 1.0 ECOboost engines that are used mainly for short trips is not uncommon.
But the point still stands that the cars simply aren't worth the cost of the belt change compared to thier value. I sold my 2013 1.0 Titanium on 50k back in 2018 for 4,500... It'll be worth less than 3000 by it's 10th birthday. Time you add the cost of the belt change to the rest of the service, plus tyres or brakes, you'll be looking at more than half the cars value on a service! I certainly wouldn't pay that.
Actually I think you and Wilco both make very good points and I guess the decision may be influenced by what the car is "worth" to you beyond strictly financial terms. A car that you have had from new, really like and have already invested much time, effort and money in, is going to seem a much more worthwhile candidate for a belt swap, than one you acquire second hand and possibly intend to move on in a year or two.
I suppose over a longer ownership period, the total cost of cambelt replacements is broadly the same, compared to other engines needing a couple of changes within a 10 year period, just seems a big hit on an older car!
I believe your crankshaft numbers are wrong. The gear ratio won't change, so the angle numbers should be 18 degrees for each step and a total of 90 degrees. It is true though that you will have a torque loss (friction) through a torque multiplier, but the gear ratio is still the same. So when using a torque wrench set at 60Nm with a 5:1 torque multiplier which in theory should be 300Nm, the actual torque on the bolt will be less (255-270Nm?).
The original torque multiplier has a torque ratio of 5:1. The documentation of this tool does not describe the actual gear ratio but based on the specifications of comparable torque multipliers with a 5:1 torque ratio the gear ratio should be approximately 5.45:1.
Hi guys, is there any more info on this topic? - especially if anyone has successfully done this work themselves? My daughter's 2012 1.0 Focus Ecoboost has broken down exhibiting very low oil pressure (with associated rattling noises) and I suspect the oil pump strainer in the sump has been blocked with belt debris (as reported on various forums).
I've seen youtube videos of a chap dropping the sump, clearing/cleaning the strainer and refitting without special tools, but most likely the belt(s) will also need replacement if they've deteriorated that much. Hopefully there will be no lasting mechanical damage as the engine idles ok and has been run minimally since the problem started.
I would expect not many people will have attempted to change the wet belts themselves on these mainly due to the significant cost of the tools required to get the correct torque settings. If I recall, it was upwards of 500 for the correct tools alone.
I cleaned out the oil pump on mine a couple of weekends back and although it wasnt a quick job, it wasn't as difficult as I was expecting. I probably made it more difficult for myself by not removing the downpipe from the turbo completely and rather tried to move the sump around it.
When I cleaned out the oil pump on mine, there did not look to be any rubbery bits as such in the pump and the oil pump belt appeared to ok but I will be getting the belts replaced as soon as financially viable as a precaution.
Any recommendations for which make of oil to use? Several claim to meet the Ford spec. Ford website appears to recommed Castrol for every car they make at the moment. I have 2017 1.0 Ecoboost with low mileage but unknown oil in it.
Speaking from experiance I once had a 2.2 Vauxhall Vectra that was due to have it's timing chain replaced at 60000 miles. The car was out of warranty, when at just a few miles over 59000 the timing chain snapped and caused major damage to the engine. I was able to prove that the car had been fully serviced by Vauxhall at 20000 & 40000 miles. The car was about 3years 7 months old and after a little bit of checking by Vauxhall Motors, the dealership was told to repair it free of charge.
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