[How To Crack Open A First Alert Safe

[Facunda Ganesh]

<div>Hi Drewmama. Where is your First Alert Smoke/CO2 Alarm located? If it is near any vents, open window or a bathroom, it could be causing the false alarms. If the dust from an open window/vent or moisture from a bathroom collect on the surface, you will need to wipe it down with a microfiber cloth to help mitigate false alarms. If this continues to happen, you may want to contact First Alert here.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>How To Crack Open A First Alert Safe</div><div></div><div>Download Zip: https://t.co/qTBvJXhIve </div><div></div><div></div><div>Hey neighbors. I wanted to share this Help Center article here with you. This allows you to cancel a Smoke Alarm from your Keypad within the first 30 seconds of the alarm triggering. This can be useful if your Smoke Alarm is caused by a kitchen mishap or something similar.</div><div></div><div></div><div>My situation is similar. My smoke alarm is upstairs next to an intake vent. It triggered the system to alarm but the device itself never alarmed. Is this normal? Also I read here how you can clean it. How is this done?</div><div></div><div></div><div>Where is your First Alert Smoke/CO2 Alarm located? If it is near any vents, open window or a bathroom, it could be causing the false alarms. If the dust from an open window/vent or moisture from a bathroom collect on the surface, you will need to wipe it down with a microfiber cloth to help mitigate false alarms. If this continues to happen, you may want to contact First Alert here</div><div></div><div></div><div>I have experienced these as well in different locations in the house. The canned responses from Ring on how to cancel in 30 seconds and not mounting the detectors near vents is not helpful. People are having real issues here and looking for help.</div><div></div><div></div><div>FYI, these recurring false alarms are why I will not let Ring provide professional monitoring. I would already be racking up fines from the county/parish if they dispatched the FD every time this happens.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Additionally, you do have the ability to cancel a Smoke Alarm from your Keypad within the first 30 seconds of the alarm triggering. This can be helpful in the case of an accidental alarm from cooking or something similar. For more information on that, please review this Help Center article.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Theoretically we gained an hour of sleep last night with DST. Our smoke/CO alarm had a false alarm at 2 am. I lost about 4 hours of sleep after Fire Dept coming to the house. 3rd and last false alarm Ring experience.</div><div></div><div>We will be getting another smoke/CO brand other than first alert and not link with Ring.</div><div></div><div></div><div>I just had this happen to me last night for the first time. The system has been installed for two years. The activity log showed that the smoke alarm triggered and cleared within a minute. The alarm is isolated on the second floor not near any vents, and the windows have been closed for several weeks.</div><div></div><div></div><div>This problem has not been solved And contacting First Alert offers no solution. There is design issue, both First Alert and Ring are not addressing. Please see my situation below. There is no way that I have no False Alarms with 15 old design First Alert detectors, but now after replacing with the Gen 2 Ring detectors I have experienced over 10 alarms in less than 2 years. That is a design issue, not related to location or cleaning or anything else. These alarms are not suitable for safety critical fire monitoring.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Hi shawnwgates. Those were excellent steps to take when you get a false alarm on a First Alert Smoke and CO2 Detector! I do not think signal interference would cause the detectors to go off but in your testing if they do go off again within that month, try separating the new sensors you installed to see if that makes a difference.</div><div></div><div></div><div>This is a great idea, I hope The Prepared can do a review of some fireproof safes in the future, because there are many out there that claim to be fireproof, but are not. I think this would involve testing and burning up some safes to really see which is the best though. Here is a video of some people trying some fireproof safes. If I had to buy a new one, I would definitely do some research and see if anyone has tested the model that you are planning on buying.</div><div></div><div></div><div>I have two small fireproof safes. A First Alert waterproof model, and a Sentry Safe. They are pretty similar, and are quite heavy. It almost feels like they are filled with concrete. I would think that these would have a much higher chance of resisting a fire vs the ones they test in the video above.</div><div></div><div></div><div>I do keep my documents in gallon ziplock baggies, and portable hard drives in sandwich baggies. I do this to protect them if we have a flood, but the downside I think is that if there was a fire, the plastic would just melt around everything and be a pain to remove.</div><div></div><div></div><div>I first considered setting up a NAS (file server) for high capacity storage and automated backups, but then I asked myself what I would do in case of a home fire, which led me to look into fireproof safes.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Level 1- This can be your NAS. This will make sure you have constant backups and access to all your files easily. This backup will be the most up-to-date, but will have the shortest lifespan (constantly running), and most prone to fire.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Level 2- Hard drive in fireproof safe at home. This can be backed up weekly or monthly, so not as up-to-date as the NAS, but pretty good, will have a longer lifespan because it is just sitting in cold storage and is only ran every week or month, and is protected a bit against fire.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Very good thinking. I am definitely going to set up a NAS at some point, but as a second layer, mostly because of expense. A decent 5TB SSD and a portable fireproof safe would fetch a much lower price than my standard for a NAS (RAID 5 with good SSDs).</div><div></div><div></div><div>I am going a bit off-topic here, but I would highly enjoy reading digital prepping articles about personal data safety, good Internet habits, VPNs (including TOR and rented servers managed by the end user) and password managers, to cite a few.</div><div></div><div></div><div>My advice: Get as big a safe as you can afford for your home, and bolt it down to the floor. If you have documents that you want to protect, either get a fire-lined safe or get a document box and put it inside the safe. Keep digital copies of those documents on a USB drive in your BOB or in the cloud (or both).</div><div></div><div></div><div>This is just one of the reasons my prepping life got easier when I stopped using my car regularly (because I moved and was able to commute via running and transit). I always did worry about losing my BOB (and, worse yet, important documents) when I kept it in the trunk.</div><div></div><div></div><div>For a safe technician, the most important part of the job is to make sure you open the safe for the owner or legal guardian. Opening a safe for the wrong person easily could get you sued or thrown in jail and be a career-ender.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Before I accept any job, I have a thorough question process. A photo ID is required for any opening, and I like to get this in a text or email before I accept the job. This weeds out any questionable customers and jobs. Acceptable forms of identification include mail with an address, a passport or other government-issued ID.</div><div></div><div></div><div>The phone conversation to collect information is where it all begins. I ask a lot of questions: When was the safe last opened? By whom? Has it been giving you trouble? How? Did you change batteries? Did you use a better brand of batteries? I also ask multiple people what the combination was. Do they all match? Can you think of anything that happened to the safe recently to cause the lockout? Was the safe recently moved? Did it fall?</div><div></div><div></div><div>This can happen by doing everything all at once or by applying light pressure on the handle and performing multiple impacts, repeatedly. By picking up the safe and dropping it, you shock the solenoid, which overpowers the return spring so the bolt work passes by.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Start by carefully peeling back the paper label on the left-hand side of the safe. Then use your drill and bit, start at what would be 75 on the dial if you could see it, or the left side just outside the dial ring, and angle slightly in. (Image 5)</div><div></div><div></div><div>This type of opening can drive a tech crazy, because you have to spot clues to figure out the problem. There was absolutely NO movement in the door, so the owner got frustrated and stripped the handle as well. The lock worked after it was open, but it already was a lost cause. The customer had to open the store for business that day, and all the cash was in this fire container. By using a ratchet strap and hammer or block of wood, I released the pressure on the bolt work to open the container. At least no pry bars were used! (Image 8)</div><div></div><div></div><div>After the pin is cut, flush and ground flat, I like to use JB weld, steel stick epoxy or bondo to smooth out gaps. (Image 10) A good 80-grit or less sanding block can be used to blend the surfaces. Finally, a little touch-up paint will complete the repair. I keep several fingernail-polish-size containers of automotive paint, which range from black to white to touch up or to mix in some cases to best match the container. (Image 11)</div><div></div><div></div><div>If your safe was purchased before 2011 please contact First Alert at 800-323-9005 or WWW.FIRSTALERT.COM. As you have an older model safe which First Alert will be able to provide assistance with getting keys for your safe.</div><div></div><div></div><div>If your safe was purchased 2011 or after, please contact LH Licensed Products by Phone (877-354-5457) or by Email LHLPCustomerservice LHLPinc.com. Make sure to provide either a model, serial, and/or key number so we can verify which exact safe you have. From there once we verify your safe, we will ask you to fill out a Product Ownership Verification Form. The collection of this information is solely for your own safety to prevent others who may not own the safe from trying to gain access to your unit. The requirements of filling out the Product Ownership Verification form will be providing a copy of your picture ID (Mandatory), A copy of your receipt or Notarizing the Product Ownership Form. (Note: If a receipt CANNOT be provided the form MUST be notarized. If a receipt IS Provided, the form DOES NOT have to be notarized). Open the following link to find the complete instructions for purchasing replacement keys. www.LHLPKEYS.com</div><div></div><div></div><div>If the key matches and cannot be turned, please try spraying WD40 in the key lock. Spray it for 2 seconds then let it soak for 20 seconds then try turning the key again. If that still does not work, please contact Customer service at LHLPCustomerservice LHLPinc.com for further assistance.</div><div></div><div> 795a8134c1</div>