Black Mesa Pa System

[Ranee Wates]

BlackMesa State Park and Nature Preserve is located in Oklahoma's panhandle along the tri-state border with Colorado, New Mexico and Texas. Black Mesa takes its name from the layer of black lava rock that coated the mesa about 30 million years ago. Visitors to the preserve can hike to the top of the plateau, Oklahoma's highest point at 4,973 feet above sea level.

The Black Mesa area supports 31 state rare species; 23 plants and eight animals. Here, the Rocky Mountains meet the shortgrass prairie, a unique area where many species are at the easternmost or westernmost portions of their range.

Black Mesa is a birder's paradise any time of the year. Golden eagles, scaled quail, black-billed magpies and pinyon jays are just a few of the birds that may be observed. Black bear, bobcat, mountain lion, mule deer, bighorn sheep and antelope are some of the mammals you might also spot while hiking around.

In addition to being an excellent location for wildlife watching, Black Mesa boasts some of the darkest nighttime skies on publicly accessible land in the country. The dark skies draw countless astronomy enthusiasts every year for ideal star gazing conditions, most especially, in August when the annual Perseid meteor shower is visible.

North about 15 miles from the Black Mesa State Park. From 209th West Avenue (Prue Road) and Highway 64 / 412 exit - Travel north along Prue Road approximately 2 miles. The entrance is directly across from the second cell phone tower and features a large sandstone and black iron gate.

Click here for a map.

The Nature Conservancy owns nearly 1,500 preserves covering more than 2.5 million acres across all 50 states. These lands protect wildlife and natural systems, serve as living laboratories for innovative science and connect people to the natural world.

Black Mesa and Kenton, located in the far northwestern Oklahoma Panhandle and the surrounding area can be heaven to a photographer. Every once in awhile in social media groups dedicated to photography, I read requests for information about the area. Even though the Okie-Tex Star Party is held there every year, because of the dark skies, this area of Oklahoma is almost devoid of any photographic attention. My purpose behind this article is to provide a one stop shop about the area. The focus is more centered on things like lodging, fuel than it is specific photography locations.

I grew up in the small town of Boise City, located in the Oklahoma Panhandle. Boise City is the county seat of Cimarron County. As a kid growing up, I got to spend a lot of time out in the Kenton area. To say that this area holds a special place in my heart would be an understatement. Ever since I started with photography, I have made the Kenton area kind of like my own little personal playground.

Kenton is located in the far northwestern portion of Oklahoma. It is so far west that it is in the mountain time zone. As you can see from the map, it is only a couple miles east of the New Mexico state line. It is about a 30-minute drive from Boise City. At the last Census, the population was listed at 17. From time to time, I hear the number 100 as an estimate of the number of people in the area. That might be generous, or it could be in relation to the total area the person is considering. There are no two ways about it though, it is desolate and provides a photographer, or even just a tourist some issues they have to deal with.

I always found it difficult to find accurate sunset information because of the time zone. This, in turn, would make planning sunset shots or portrait sessions into a mild nightmare, even with the tools that I use. To get around this issue, I just look up those times using Clayton, New Mexico as my location. If you zoom out on the map, you will see that Kenton is almost due north of Clayton, but since they are in the same time zone, the times for Clayton works for Kenton and the surrounding area.

This used to be a big issue as the Black Mesa area tends to be somewhat behind in technological advances. Just a few years ago, the local telecommunications system, PTCI undertook a serious effort to upgrade their system in the area. Since they are AT&T based, those with that service should be fine. My IPad has service through PTCI and it has service all over the area. My phone though is Verizon and I lose service in about 99.9% of the area. There is one little spot that it does get service for about 30 seconds. Enough to annoy me with a hundred notifications and that is it.

And guess what, they can be pretty bad out in the Panhandle! Honestly, the roads out in the Black Mesa area are pretty solid. The paved roads are fairly smooth, but narrow. Since this is mesa country, they do have some elevation changes and curves, which adds a little danger to the traveling. As long as one keeps a sane speed, which I do not see why they would not since there is so much to see, everything will be fine. Large wildlife and livestock are the main concern and at night, it pays to be prudent and take it easy.

If you mess around with GoogleMaps or GoogleEarth, you will see a vast network of roads in the area. Most of them are dirt, but most of them are really solid dirt roads. Several of these roads will take someone to places like the three state marker where Colorado, New Mexico, and Oklahoma meet. You can also head up into Colorado on these roads. Another nice drive is through northern Cimarron County. If you use the map, go to the area where Highway 325 turns to the west from the north. There is a road marked N0110. This will lead into Colorado, but it can also lead to US 287. The drive is totally worth it. This drive though is entirely dirt, so be mindful of the recent weather.

One of the things that a person needs to plan on is where they are going to stay, gas consumption and food supplies. Clayton and Boise City are the only two places where a person can get gas or fuel. Depending on the length of time a person is going to stay out in the Kenton area can determine when they should fill up. I live just about a hundred miles from the area and I will leave town on a full tank. When I get to the area, most of the time I am only going to be out there for a few hours, but I usually scout locations in the daylight. I do not worry about filling up before leaving Boise City to head out there. I would not suggest leaving Boise City on less than half a tank, and to be safe, three-quarters of a tank. Boise City has two convenience stores that sell fuel. Clayton has several also.

Unlike the food and fuel options, the Black Mesa area boasts several options for lodging. The first being the campgrounds at Lake Etling. There are two campgrounds that offer primitive spots for tents, along with some spaces for travel trailers/motorhomes and hookups. The larger of the two also offers up a playground and a fully functional restroom/shower facility. This particular campground offers up plenty of shade during the day and it is pretty common to see deer around.

Honestly, that is up to the person wanting to go. Since it is Oklahoma, and mesa country, and just down the road from the Rockies, the weather can be quite crazy at times. Winter can be a bad choice, plus if you are looking for the Milky Way, skip winter. Spring is okay. The days can be cool to warm, but nights can be chilly. In the summer, the heat is a big concern. Fall is a lot like spring, with the added benefit of fall colors with the trees.

There is an abundance of wildlife in the area. Anything from hordes of mosquitoes to black bear and everything in between. Although black bear sightings are rare, there is probably a couple running around. Mountain lion sightings are more common, and even then rare, but they are out there. Although I have never seen an elk, I have been serenaded by the song of their people at night on occasion. The chances of seeing deer are pretty high. Further down, rattlesnakes are the common creepy crawly thing and with a number of rocks and high grass, you will want to keep an eye for them.

Along with wildlife, the main way of life for people out there is ranching, therefore you will see cattle. There is some fencing, but a lot of cattle are free range and can be seen on the roads. Take your time and slow down, especially after dark.

I think I have covered all the background information that should be considered by a photographer before heading out to Black Mesa and Kenton. Although I am not taking into consideration the lodging aspect of going to Black Mesa and Kenton, I do have a small checklist of items that should be in every vehicle. That checklist includes:

Hopefully, I have not bored you to tears at this point, but many times I will see discussions that talk about the photography without any mention of some of the other things we should think of before heading out. Even though it might be in the back of our heads, when I give people information about Kenton and Black Mesa, I focus on the background stuff mostly because I would not want to see someone have a surprise meet them once they got out there. So on to some specific information about photography the places and people of Kenton and Black Mesa.

Yes, if the land does not belong to the state, which most of the Lake Etling and Black Mesa itself falls under, the land belongs to private owners, even if the land is not fenced. This does not mean that your photography has to suffer, though. Pulling off the side of the road in a lot of areas is all that is needed to take advantage of a photographic opportunity. Since it is mesa country, you will find yourself surrounded by landscape most everywhere you go. Most of the land owners I know are more than accommodating if you ask first if you find an area to shoot. And if you make contact with certain ones, you might get to enjoy a private tour of some of the gems that are held within the walls. But do not let the fact about land ownership prevent you from going.

I also drag along my 70-200 glass when I go out there. Even though it might be a little short for wildlife shots, sometimes it will do just find. I mess around with shooting landscapes at longer focal lengths to I can keep the landscape looking like it does, not compressed. Of course, if you are going to be on foot and want to stay mindful of the weight in your camera bag, or do not want to spend the money on a 70-200, then a 70-300 will do just fine during the day.

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