Help request

[Tim Dowker]

I'm trying to figure out what exactly I can do with this relay (pictured).  I'm not a complete newb but I can't seem to wrap my head around this one.

I know the "7-30VDC" input powers the board.  I have successfully flashed it with Tasmota 9.2 and I can get the relay to "click" but I'm not sure from there.

Does the relay simply start/stop the electricity from passing from the "digital input" to the "relay out"?

Thank you for whatever insight you may be able to provide.

[sfromis]

The expected way for such a relay to work would be for it to connect common to either NC (normally closed) or NO (normally open. The below 3-screw connector looks like it is intended for some sort of button/switch input. A typical setup would to have mains live connected to the relay, and switched on/off, with the in/out neutral wires simply being connected. You should probably only have one relay gpio configured, and then one switch/button input pin for the "digital" input. This also matches the wto input/relay leds on the board. Of course, without having tested it, I can't be 100% sure of details, but I'd be surprised if it differs.

[Tim Dowker]

thank you sfromis.  would a doorbell switch work for testing purposes?  If so, do I connect it to the "5V out" and "signal in"? or some other combination.

I've updated the config as you suggested.

[sfromis]

Well, I don't know the intention with the 5v line. A very common input setup would be to connect the signal pin to ground, no power needed. I'd check the sales listing for examples of use. Spculatively, the 5v line could be meant for providing a bit of light. Or to make some non-siwtch sensor work, like a ultrasonic range detector. Or whatever....

[Tim Dowker]

thank you again @sfromis, I tested using a standard doorbell button on the "signal in" and "ground" input but it didn't seem to work.  I'll try hooking it up to a standard wall switch and see if that works.  My main problem now is that I don't know if it's the tasmota config that is incorrect or the wiring/switches I'm using.

[sfromis]

Did you check if you're using the right gpio pins? Otherwise, the expected result is nothing.

https://tasmota.github.io/docs/Configuration-Procedure-for-New-Devices/

[Philip Knowles]

I’m fairly sure these devices need the 5V supply to go to the switch and the other side of the switch goes to the Signal In and it uses GPIO0 as the Switch input.

 

Regards

 

Phil K

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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[Tim Dowker]

@sfromis I was able to find it in the known templates however the version I have doesn’t have the same branding but the boards appear to be identical. https://templates.blakadder.com/ESP12F-10A.html

Phil K. - thank you, I will try that as well.

[Michael Ingraham]

I use this module and selected the Tasmota `Yunshan Relay` built-in module. There is a `Template` that replicates the built-in Module. Either configuration method should work.

I found that I could flash the device using 5V on the input but required at least 7V for the device to work properly in operational mode.

5V and GND contacts are just provided for "convenience".

I use the relay as a dry contact using `Common` as the signal and `NO` as the output. According to the built-in template, the relay (`RELAY1`) is GPIO4. I then control the relay using `POWER1` to open and close the circuit.

`Signal In` is GPIO5.

GPIO1 and GPIO3 are broken out on the PCB since these are used for flashing the ESP SoC. Therefore these pins are available for configuring external components if desired.

[Tim Dowker]

Ok, after some testing - here are the results.

Setting GPIO0 to Switch an connecting a standard household wall switch to the Digital Out 5V and Signal In does nothing.  Also tried connecting the switch to the Digital GND and Signal In, same results, no worky.

Tried with both manually configuring the template and also using the Yunshan Relay (33), both failed.  I've attached a (very) basic concept diagram of what I'd like to accomplish.  If anybody is knowledgeable enough to at least let me know if what I'd like to do is even possible with this device, I would very much appreciate it.

Short description of what I'd like to do - basically I have a gas fireplace that is controlled by a switch on the wall.  There are 12V going to this switch from the fireplace controller.  I'd like to be able to turn the fireplace on/off via both the wall switch and from my phone (through Home Assistant).

[Michael Ingraham]

On my module `Signal In` is on GPIO5 (not GPIO0). GPIO0 is broken out to the `Boot` contact (for booting into programming mode).

Also, be sure that your DC output from you AC/DC adapter supplies at least 7VDC.

[Tim Dowker]

Hi Michael - Thank you for responding.  I tried setting GPIO5 to both Button and Switch, neither worked unfortunately.  According to my multimeter, my adapter is supplying 12.5VDC on the input side.

[Tim Dowker]

Possibly silly question - if I have a switch hooked up properly - will the on/off show up in the Tasmota console?

[Michael Ingraham]

`Switch<x>` status will be transmitted in the `STATUSSNS` (`Status 8`) telemetry.

Post the template you are using.

[Tim Dowker]

[Michael Ingraham]

GPIO5 should be SWITCH1. You have it configured as SWITCH2.

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/995e9ac6-8cfc-4365-9764-5de85cd74940n%40googlegroups.com.

[Tim Dowker]

changed - still no go.  Here is a picture of the basic wall switch I have setup for testing.

[Michael Ingraham]

You're feeding 5VDC to an ESP82xx GPIO. ESP82xx SoC are 3.3VDC. If you haven't released the magic smoke, you may have lucked out... but perhaps the damage has been done.

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/dd5e0e8a-a201-4231-b827-c420e52cc767n%40googlegroups.com.

[Tim Dowker]

I've tried hooking up the Signal In and GND to the switch and still no go.

If the "damage has been done" is true, would I still be able to activate the relay from the Tasmota web interface?  Currently I can still operate it via this method.

[Michael Ingraham]

Like I said, you may have lucked out. But do stay away from 5V on those pins.

You should put a pullup resistor tied to 3.3V and then use the switch to connect the GPIO to GND.

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/5a4ef268-19be-4be2-a2ae-713255a427d4n%40googlegroups.com.

[Tim Dowker]

Hi, sorry for being so dense.  When you say GPIO5, you mean the "Signal In" terminal?

[Michael Ingraham]

Yes

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/32da5c09-91a0-43fb-bcd8-6dfe9fb33c4fn%40googlegroups.com.

[Philip Knowles]

On the one I have there is an optoisolator on the input (next to the relay). I never used the input just the output on GPIO4.

 

Regards

 

Phil K

 

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From: Michael Ingraham
Sent: 05 January 2021 20:26
To: Tim Dowker
Cc: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

Like I said, you may have lucked out. But do stay away from 5V on those pins.

 

You should put a pullup resistor tied to 3.3V and then use the switch to connect the GPIO to GND.

 

On Tue, Jan 5, 2021 at 3:17 PM Tim Dowker <timd...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've tried hooking up the Signal In and GND to the switch and still no go.

 

If the "damage has been done" is true, would I still be able to activate the relay from the Tasmota web interface?  Currently I can still operate it via this method.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2021 at 3:14:47 PM UTC-5 meing..@gmail.com wrote:

You're feeding 5VDC to an ESP82xx GPIO. ESP82xx SoC are 3.3VDC. If you haven't released the magic smoke, you may have lucked out... but perhaps the damage has been done.

 

 

 

On Tue, Jan 5, 2021 at 2:58 PM Tim Dowker <timd...@gmail.com> wrote:

changed - still no go.  Here is a picture of the basic wall switch I have setup for testing.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2021 at 2:52:11 PM UTC-5 meing...@gmail.com wrote:

GPIO5 should be SWITCH1. You have it configured as SWITCH2.

 

 

On Tue, Jan 5, 2021 at 2:42 PM Tim Dowker <timd...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Tuesday, January 5, 2021 at 2:40:50 PM UTC-5 meing...@gmail.com wrote:

`Switch<x>` status will be transmitted in the `STATUSSNS` (`Status 8`) telemetry.

 

Post the template you are using.

 

On Tuesday, January 5, 2021 at 2:06:02 PM UTC-5 timd...@gmail.com wrote:

Possibly silly question - if I have a switch hooked up properly - will the on/off show up in the Tasmota console?

On Tuesday, January 5, 2021 at 2:03:48 PM UTC-5 Tim Dowker wrote:

Hi Michael - Thank you for responding.  I tried setting GPIO5 to both Button and Switch, neither worked unfortunately.  According to my multimeter, my adapter is supplying 12.5VDC on the input side.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2021 at 1:59:00 PM UTC-5 meing...@gmail.com wrote:

On my module `Signal In` is on GPIO5 (not GPIO0). GPIO0 is broken out to the `Boot` contact (for booting into programming mode).

 

Also, be sure that your DC output from you AC/DC adapter supplies at least 7VDC.

On Tuesday, January 5, 2021 at 1:34:45 PM UTC-5 timd...@gmail.com wrote:

Ok, after some testing - here are the results.

 

Setting GPIO0 to Switch an connecting a standard household wall switch to the Digital Out 5V and Signal In does nothing.  Also tried connecting the switch to the Digital GND and Signal In, same results, no worky.

 

Tried with both manually configuring the template and also using the Yunshan Relay (33), both failed.  I've attached a (very) basic concept diagram of what I'd like to accomplish.  If anybody is knowledgeable enough to at least let me know if what I'd like to do is even possible with this device, I would very much appreciate it.

 

Short description of what I'd like to do - basically I have a gas fireplace that is controlled by a switch on the wall.  There are 12V going to this switch from the fireplace controller.  I'd like to be able to turn the fireplace on/off via both the wall switch and from my phone (through Home Assistant).

 

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/CAMys3ReXwo-jrRSJ3y-u89mOF1b5ciG7TEtA9UsN4VYTheYRrQ%40mail.gmail.com.

 

[Koenraad Lelong]

Hi,

A bit late, but I think I'm seeing an LED somehow connected to the
input. If you see that change when you change the input, you know the
the input-circuit is OK. Then you have to find out how to get it seen by
the ESP-device.

As far as I can see in the images, you need to supply a voltage to
activate the opto-coupler, pin 1 is the anode connected to the connector
via a resistor, pin 2 the cathode which seems connected to ground. And
since 5V is provided on the connector I think it's safe to use that. It
is there isn't it ?
I think the input-LED is connected to the collector of the opto-coupler
(pin 4), so supplying 5V to the input should light the LED. That same
pin seems to go off to the input of the ESP-chip. So with your
multimeter you can check if the state changes if you change the input.
Those would be my first actions to debug this situation.

My 2cents.

Regards,
Koenraad.

[Philip Knowles]

I’ve finally had a chance to try using the input on my HW-622. Connecting the 5V line to the signal had no effect so I did some investigation with a multimeter. There is no voltage difference between the 5V and Signal connection and, critically, no voltage difference between %V and 0V. I connected a wire between the supply 0V and the 0V on the input block and then a switch between 5V and signal and the relay operated .

 

I have 2 of these and neither of them is connected to 0V. There is a board feedthrough next to the HW-622 writing which may be the issue but, as it is, the solution is a wire between the two )Vs.

 

Regards

 

Phil K

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

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[Tim Dowker]

@Phil K - thank you so much for your continued support and the follow up research/investigation.  I truly appreciate your help and support on this.  

Although I am a "computer guy", my knowledge of electronics is rather basic.  I understand the basics but I'm still learning and have a long way to go.

I'm not sure what "no voltage difference between %V and 0V" means.  Would you be able to ELI5?  What is the "supply 0V" and "0V on the input block"?

Thank you again.

[Philip Knowles]

The 0V on the switch side isn’t connected (which is why there isn’t a voltage difference between 5V and 0V – it reads 0 instead of 5). As there is no ‘reference the input is unable to work. It needs to connected like this. The little black item below the relay is an optoisolator which means that you don’t need to worry about ‘frying’ the ESP8266

 

Regards

 

Phil K

 

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From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 07 January 2021 13:44
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

@Phil K - thank you so much for your continued support and the follow up research/investigation.  I truly appreciate your help and support on this.  

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/87e793b6-922b-4cfc-b215-6a9099818112n%40googlegroups.com.

 

[Tim Dowker]

@Phil K - I tried to set it up as you described but now whenever the switch is turned on, the unit becomes unresponsive (ran a continuous ping on it).  As soon as I flip the switch back to off - the unit comes back online and can be used as normal.  Is this to be expected?

[Philip Knowles]

No mine just operates the relay while the switch is closed. I have it set as Generic with GPIO4 as Relay1 and GPIO5 as Switch1.

 

What voltage are you supplying it with and is the switch a “normal” switch?

 

Regards

 

Phil K

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 07 January 2021 16:34
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

@Phil K - I tried to set it up as you described but now whenever the switch is turned on, the unit becomes unresponsive (ran a continuous ping on it).  As soon as I flip the switch back to off - the unit comes back online and can be used as normal.  Is this to be expected?

 

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/64652cbb-bc0a-4e69-95cd-ff3701e03729n%40googlegroups.com.

 

[Tim Dowker]

Input voltage is 12.36V approximately.  The switch is a standard household switch I pulled out when I replaced it for a smart switch.  It is a Pass & Seymour LeGrand Switch.

Hmmm, my settings in tasmota seem to be the same.

[Tim Dowker]

I'm starting to wonder if it's the hardware switch.  It is a standard household switch which would normally be used for 110V - 240V (standard North American household voltage).

[Tim Dowker]

I was able to find the schematic, if that helps at all.  I'm afraid my level of knowledge isn't high enough to make much sense of it.

[Barry Parr]

so the opto gnd is separate form the pwr gnd .

this is good because you can drive the opto with a different supply altogether .

If however , you want to use the onboard 5v supply to drive it , you will need to 

connect the pwr GND  to the Input GND_EXIT as well .

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/22d3d278-e991-47b5-813f-3775a4d5830an%40googlegroups.com.

[Barry Parr]

here is a little pic for your ref

[Tim Dowker]

@Barry - thank you for the follow-up and diagram - they are very helpful.  Unfortunately, when I do the "Switch 2" setup, any time I flip the switch on - the module completely powers down.  It's as if the unit shorts out.  Once I flip the switch back to "off" it comes right back up.  If toggle the switch multiple times, it resets it's configuration.

Prior to testing this config I reset the configuration through the web interface and also ran a "Reset 5" on it.

Just for reference, here is where I purchased this card.  https://store.qkits.com/esp8266-wifi-relay-card.html

[Philip Knowles]

I’m fairly sure your device is the same as the one I have. Have you tried my suggestion about viewing what happens in Console?

 

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From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 08 January 2021 12:54
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

@Barry - thank you for the follow-up and diagram - they are very helpful.  Unfortunately, when I do the "Switch 2" setup, any time I flip the switch on - the module completely powers down.  It's as if the unit shorts out.  Once I flip the switch back to "off" it comes right back up.  If toggle the switch multiple times, it resets it's configuration.

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[Tim Dowker]

@Phil K. - yes, I have monitored the output on the console - it looks normal when I activate the relay from the web interface.  Like I said, as soon as I flip the hardware switch to "On" it stops responding.  Flipping it back to "Off", the unit comes back up just like I had pulled the power plug.

[Philip Knowles]

You don’t have anything connected between the signal input and 0V?

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/71ccb2e5-2efa-47cd-9c28-c8add72eba59n%40googlegroups.com.

 

[Tim Dowker]

Nope, here is my exact setup.

[Philip Knowles]

I’d try a multimeter between signal and 0V to check the resistance. On mine it’s > 60kohm

 

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From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 08 January 2021 15:24
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

Nope, here is my exact setup.

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[Tim Dowker]

Sure thing - when you say signal, do you mean the "Signal In" terminal?  And what do you mean by 0V?

[Philip Knowles]

Yes Signal In. 0V and Gnd are synonymous – tend use 0V in the UK as Ground and Earth can be confused.

 

 

 

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From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 08 January 2021 16:54
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

Sure thing - when you say signal, do you mean the "Signal In" terminal?  And what do you mean by 0V?

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 10:31:03 AM UTC-5 knowles...@gmail.com wrote:

I’d try a multimeter between signal and 0V to check the resistance. On mine it’s > 60kohm

 

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From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 08 January 2021 15:24
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

Nope, here is my exact setup.

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 9:50:31 AM UTC-5 knowles...@gmail.com wrote:

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/464c89b5-8981-421a-9b89-9e877c4d9604n%40googlegroups.com.

 

[Tim Dowker]

Ok, thank you for your patience.

Measurement is attached.  It drops to zero when I flip the hardware switch to "on" position.

[Barry Parr]

small steps.

does this work 

[Tim Dowker]

Unfortunately, no, that does not work.  As soon as I flip the hardware switch to "on" the unit powers off.  It comes right back up when I flip the switch back to off.

[Philip Knowles]

I suspect that you have a duff device. There’s some stuff about diodes being fitted the wrong way round. You could use the Rx pin . You would need to create a voltage divider

 

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From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 08 January 2021 18:40
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

Ok, thank you for your patience.

 

Measurement is attached.  It drops to zero when I flip the hardware switch to "on" position.

 

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/ed9c8788-fd36-4e63-b7e8-5d7ac387e131n%40googlegroups.com.

 

[Tim Dowker]

Sorry, I don't know what "duff device" means...

[Philip Knowles]

A faulty one

 

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From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 08 January 2021 20:02
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

Sorry, I don't know what "duff device" means...

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 3:00:48 PM UTC-5 knowles...@gmail.com wrote:

I suspect that you have a duff device. There’s some stuff about diodes being fitted the wrong way round. You could use the Rx pin . You would need to create a voltage divider

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Tim Dowker
Sent: 08 January 2021 18:40
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

Ok, thank you for your patience.

 

Measurement is attached.  It drops to zero when I flip the hardware switch to "on" position.

 

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 1:17:08 PM UTC-5 knowles...@gmail.com wrote:

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/sonoffusers/aa1ff4ae-5bb5-4e7d-869b-156dd823a1f0n%40googlegroups.com.

 

[Tim Dowker]

Ok, thank you for all your time and patience.  I will contact the seller and see if there's any chance I can exchange it for another one.

Tim

[Barry Parr]

if the schematic you posted is correct , the diagram I posted should work.

philip , can you verify that the last diagram I posted works or fails ?

tim , can you take a photo showing everything wired up .

also a photo of the back of the circuit board

[Tim Dowker]

HA!  You guys are amazing!  I emailed the supplier and he agreed to exchange the unit - got it home, flashed with 9.2.0, re-wired as before and... BINGO - works like a charm!

Thank you all so much for all your help and patience.  I have learned a lot in the process.

Thanks again,

Tim

[Philip Knowles]

Yes the drawing was how I had it connected and it worked but Tim’s didn’t

 

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From: Barry Parr
Sent: 08 January 2021 20:30
To: TasmotaUsers
Subject: Re: Help request

 

if the schematic you posted is correct , the diagram I posted should work.

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