overexposed resin while printing

[ferns]

Hello guys,

It's great to have this space where we can share our problems / solutions with the comunity. Thanks Kitprinter!!

I've allready started printing with the Creation Workshop (Solidray flexvat profiles) and my first print came out superb!! My second, third and fourth made me think that I did something "wrong" in the first one... I'm just a rookie!

Resin is getting cured around the objects that I've been printing, as you can see in the attachements. It is just a thin layer that gets stuck to the FEP film and it seems to get thicker as the printer takes longer. This explains why my first print came out great: it was the "calibration matrix" file, that is a thin object and fast to print.

As I started to print "taller" objects, in the final stage of the print, the object would brake as it was pulled up and half of it would get stuck at the FEP film. The pictures I've attached  are from the "Calibrate - print test model" option of the Creation Workshop, and from a simple ring.

The projector is a brand new Acer P1500 and it works fine. The thing is that it "never stops emiting light": while the elevator goes up and down, the light is still on but not with that strong beam of the projection. I guess it is influencing the the resin in the end of the VAT... as it would, if I didn't have the light cover before hiting play to start printing.

Did this happen to anyone? Any solutions to avoid this?

Cheers,

[KitPrinter3D]

Hi Fernando. 

DLP projectors are normally not able to produce "pure black" due to the way their DLP chips work, so while some degree of light is totally normal even when the black screen is projected, your pictures show that this light is stronger than it should be. Could you please check the values for the P1500 contrast and bright? and post them here?

[ferns]

Hello again,

Thanks for your answer.

I've changed the contrast value to 100% when setuping the projector, like it was sad in the instructions... brightness is still in the 60%.

I'm thinking in making a manual shutter...

Saludos,

[Kitprinter3D]

Then the projector values are OK, is there another possible light that could be exposing the resin? like sunlight or other?

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[ferns]

there is no other light... thats why I thought about the light coming out from the projector while it was not "printing". 

Like before I hit play, I have to uncover the optical "light sender", I will try to cover it, while it is not printing. (just for a test)

Else, I'll use new resin!

Saludos,

FA

segunda-feira, 21 de Setembro de 2015 às 23:52:13 UTC+1, KitPrinter3D escreveu:

Then the projector values are OK, is there another possible light that could be exposing the resin? like sunlight or other?

El 22/9/2015, a las 0:39, ferns <fcr.a...@gmail.com> escribió:

Hello again,

Thanks for your answer.

I've changed the contrast value to 100% when setuping the projector, like it was sad in the instructions... brightness is still in the 60%.

I'm thinking in making a manual shutter...

Saludos,

segunda-feira, 21 de Setembro de 2015 às 11:20:29 UTC+1, ferns escreveu:

Hello guys,

It's great to have this space where we can share our problems / solutions with the comunity. Thanks Kitprinter!!

I've allready started printing with the Creation Workshop (Solidray flexvat profiles) and my first print came out superb!! My second, third and fourth made me think that I did something "wrong" in the first one... I'm just a rookie!

Resin is getting cured around the objects that I've been printing, as you can see in the attachements. It is just a thin layer that gets stuck to the FEP film and it seems to get thicker as the printer takes longer. This explains why my first print came out great: it was the "calibration matrix" file, that is a thin object and fast to print.

As I started to print "taller" objects, in the final stage of the print, the object would brake as it was pulled up and half of it would get stuck at the FEP film. The pictures I've attached  are from the "Calibrate - print test model" option of the Creation Workshop, and from a simple ring.

The projector is a brand new Acer P1500 and it works fine. The thing is that it "never stops emiting light": while the elevator goes up and down, the light is still on but not with that strong beam of the projection. I guess it is influencing the the resin in the end of the VAT... as it would, if I didn't have the light cover before hiting play to start printing.

Did this happen to anyone? Any solutions to avoid this?

Cheers,

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[santiagomanteca]

Hello to every body in the group, hi ferns,

I have the same problem, and I have tested Industruial red resin, industrial black, standard blend, castable red, and I'm going to test the Snow White.

With all of them I have the same problem, the surface around the printed object gets cured. It is very extrange because it didn't happen with the 5 or 10 first prints, but all of the resins are new bottles and now I have this problem.

I'm going to try to change proyector parameters like color wall, brightness, etc.
If I get better results I will tell you.

Saludos
Santi

[Kitprinter3D]

Hi everybody. Another way is change the projection color, on the CW, you can change from white to grey. This is probably easier than disassembling the projector to change the parameters.
What layer height are you using btw?

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[santiagomanteca]

Hello,
I have tried with several layer heights, 0.030, 0.035, 0.040 and 0.050.

I will try to change from white to grey and I will tell you the test results.

Un Saludo
Santi

El jueves, 24 de septiembre de 2015, 1:52:58 (UTC+2), KitPrinter3D escribió:

Hi everybody. Another way is change the projection color, on the CW, you can change from white to grey. This is probably easier than disassembling the projector to change the parameters.
What layer height are you using btw?


> El 24/9/2015, a las 1:47, santiagomanteca <santiag...@gmail.com> escribió:
>
> Hello to every body in the group, hi ferns,
>
> I have the same problem, and I have tested Industruial red resin, industrial black, standard blend, castable red, and I'm going to test the Snow White.
>
> With all of them I have the same problem, the surface around the printed object gets cured. It is very extrange because it didn't  happen with the 5 or 10 first prints, but all of the resins are new bottles and now I have this problem.
>
> I'm going to try to change  proyector parameters like color wall, brightness, etc.
> If I get better results I will tell you.
>
> Saludos
> Santi
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "SolidRay DLP-SLA 3D Printer Kit" group.

> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to solidray-dlp-sla-3d-printer-kit+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
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[santiagomanteca]

Hi friends,
I have improved a little my results.
You can see in the photo a lot of resin, this is from the bottom of flexvat before changing any parameters when I print the calibration matrix.

I have changed the configuration of the extended screen in the operating system (Windows 10).
First I tried to change the brightness to 0, then to -20, then to -30, then to -40. With these values the resin at the bottom of the tank  get cured.
When I try with -60, the piece gets cured perfectly, and doesn´t get cured at the bottom of the flexvat.

I have attached a picture of the extended screen configuration. I didn´t change any projector parameters.
At the moment I have only tested  the calibration matrix. Tomorrow I will try to print a larger piece.

Un saludo
Santi

El lunes, 21 de septiembre de 2015, 12:20:29 (UTC+2), ferns escribió:

[santiagomanteca]

Good afternoon,
Finally after many trials, my printer prints correctly. I have attached a picture of a printed piece (50 microns layer height and  5 hours of printing time).
After 5 hours of printing the tank resin bottom was completely clean.
I made changes to the extended screen configuration and I dropped the brightness of the projector 34, the contrast of the projector I have left in 100.
In the extended screen I have left the following parameters:
Brightness: -60
contrast 60
Gamma 0.4
Adjusting these parameters will vary slightly depending on the computer graphics card, but clearly that is not a problem of the resin or the printer, is a software configuration problem.

Un saludo
Santi

El lunes, 21 de septiembre de 2015, 12:20:29 (UTC+2), ferns escribió:

[ferns]

Hola Santi,

Great share!! I haven't been able to test it yet, but I'll try the settings you've posted here. I guess next week I'll be able to do it, and I'll post some pictures. MAny thanks!

Gracias Tio!!! Saludos!

FA

segunda-feira, 21 de Setembro de 2015 às 11:20:29 UTC+1, ferns escreveu:

[ferns]

Good evening everyone!

Thanks to Santi, I no longer have a problem of overexposed resin. I took his example and tweaked it a bit till I get some good results... not before I riped the FEP film while cleaning!! ups lol

Well, I got back on track and finaly I can share some of the work and settings:

1- the printer z thiknes was at 0.200 and not at 0,030 like in the picture.

2- the projector settings I put them like Santi's projector (since my graphics card would control it).

3- the Nvidia took control as you can see in the image with those settings.

For now I'm testing suport sizes and resolution.

Big cheers to all of you!

FA

segunda-feira, 21 de Setembro de 2015 às 11:20:29 UTC+1, ferns escreveu:

[santiagomanteca]

I´m glad to help you.

El lunes, 21 de septiembre de 2015, 12:20:29 (UTC+2), ferns escribió: