Digital calipers are a must. You will want to use them to check the dimensions of your parts, and also measure the filament. Sometimes 1.75mm filament is actually 1.64 or 1.80, and you will want to input the exact size into the slicer settings for best results.
You need something to trim the filament, since the end is long and stringy when you pull it out of the extruder and it needs a clean cut on the end before you feed it back in. The trimmer I have was in the beading section at Michaels, and is designed to cut flush with a surface. I thought that would be good for trimming strings. A very sharp exacto is the best cleanup tool.
The tweezers are for pulling extruded plastic off of the nozzle, which you will be doing all the time. Plastic tends to ooze out on its own, so when you are about to start a print, the nozzle is a little bit empty. Right before you start it is a good idea to run it manually a little to prime it. While it is homing, it tends to drip a little so I like to swipe it with the tweezers one more time just before it reaches the bed to insure a clean line at the start. Slic3r has an option to print a few outlines a short distance from the part to prime the nozzle, but sometimes there isn't enough room to do this. The tweezers are also good for gripping nuts in tight spaces.
I have 2mm and 2.5mm hex screwdrivers, since these are the sizes used on the printer. You will use these to take the case on and off (if you got the Pro), adjusting the level of the bed, adjusting the screw that determines how close the bed gets to the nozzle, and taking the extruder apart. Sometimes the filament gets jammed, maybe due to a tangle or too much dust accumulating in the teeth of the gear. You will need to take off the idler arm (the part that pushes the filament against the gear) to get the filament out. I also like to take the acrylic portion of the extruder off the motor because it makes it easier to brush the plastic dust out of the gear and acrylic. A kid sized toothbrush is best for this (maybe you can find a good Star Wars one rather than Dora the Explorer). If the filament gets jammed, the gear will scrape against it, and the ground up plastic needs to be cleared out before it's used again.
I like to use a feeler gauge to measure the distance between the nozzle and bed while leveling, though you can use a piece of paper (usually .1mm thick) for this instead. I like having something metal, and a known thickness. However the metal sucks which trying to level a bed that is hot. I think it is best to do the leveling while the bed is heated, because the expansion of the metal bed can affect its distance to the nozzle.
I use a spreading knife to pry parts from the bed. Some people use a chisel, but it's easier to rip the kapton with one. If I can't get the knife under the edge of the part, I will use the exacto to carefully lift it enough to get the spreader under it. I don't know how thick my Kapton is, but I don't think it matters all that much. .5mm is probably too much, .1mm or less is more normal for tape. The tape peels off clean, there is no residue.
I use a heat gun sometimes to warm the bed if I am too impatient to wait for it to heat up on its own. I don't know how much of an issue that would be for the Gen 2. My heated bed was added on as a beta test, with the existing power supply, but I believe the Gen 2 has a beefier power supply so the bed probably gets hotter, quicker. Before I got the heated bed I used the heat gun to warm up the inside of the printer to combat warping. If you have the model with the case, and have trouble with warping on upper layers, you can try this. None of the hobby printers has a heated chamber, but the Solidoodle's case makes it possible to experiment with at least a gently heated chamber. You wouldn't want to go too hot due to the acrylic and electronics inside.
Thanks Ian & Josh; as we get more organized, bet we all will be able to add to some type of Living Document (spread-sheet) for Solidoodle owners to share technology...
I am retired but still self employed, I'm not sure just where I'm going with this 3d printer purchase, but in the back of my mind, rolling around, is a vision of either converting this machine or creating a new one; that the hot bed will just drop on to a CNC Mills bed and self locate, on my (or anyone's) existing CNC Mill, the extruder would just be installed into a standard collet (with the center of the extruder on the center of the spindle), filament just be feed down the Spindle hole, create a new [TAB] 'Screen Page' in the existing controller software (MACH3) to handle the machine, and create a portable 3d printer that anyone can just add to their existing CNC. In other words; this may just be a tinkering, on going, project that I am just doing for fun... I have accomplish other projects like this, the last one was using a webcam inserted into a collet as an accurate inspection device, and by adding and running a screen (set up by a [Menu] pick inside MACH3, that runs a wizard creating a new [window] for the webcam picture that has angular adjustable cross-hairs) and utilizing the controller software as the DRO for accurate readings...
My vision may just be a blurred one right now, but the owner of MACH3 software claims his software is capable of handling a 3d printer scenario by utilizing the A axis (4th axis) for the extruder controls (you would need a motor for the extruder). Other people are messing around with this idea presently. Think about it, no X-Y-Z motors or sliding mechanizes needed, you would have a solid working existing base where all three directions are square to each other. Homing, part of the existing controller; no adjustments for flatness would be needed; the Part X-Y location would be a constant, Z could be set with a Z setter then adjusted for the start gap that you wanted (this could be a manual or automatic function); motor ramp up/down built-in; motor tuning built-in (accuracy for steps per unit of movement (RE: that 10,00 MM = 10,00 MM)); so on; and on...