Also, can anyone recommend a tripod that is rock solid stable in
order to eliminate camera shake when taking pictures in macro mode?
Thanks!
"John Nichols" <be...@worldnet.att.net>
> I've been given a Canon PowerShot A620 which has a macro mode,
> making it possible to take pictures of text that's clear enough to
> be useful. I've tried this with a few things at home, but I'm
> fairly certain (okay, hoping) that people here have some advice on
> how to best use this feature when doing research.
If, as you say, the text is clear enough, you may be able to use an
OCR (optical character reader) program to convert the photo into
usable text.
> Also, can anyone recommend a tripod that is rock solid stable in
> order to eliminate camera shake when taking pictures in macro mode?
Vivitar makes several tripod models that are quite sturdy. My $0.02
is to head for a Photo store for this purchase. You will get better
advice and a wider selection.
Regards, Arnold
--
<><><><><<><><><><><><>
Arrowhead Images
<aepa...@a-znet.com
<><><><><<><><><><><><>
I prefer the earth beneath my feet to be
less TERRA and more FIRMA!
You don't just want one that's stable, you want one that can hold
the camera facing down, with legs that won't get into the picture.
The Powershot isn't that heavy, and if you use it with the 2 sec
delay shutter so there's no shake fro your touching it, it's
reasonably easy to get steady. In any case, a tripod can always be
made more stable by hanging a proportionately heavy beanbag from it
(I've even used my camera bag before now), but not many outside the
wildlife photography world can face down. You really need one with
a central pole that rotates, or a copy stand.
I use a Benbo 1 http://www.patersonphotographic.com/tripods/
benbo.html for copying stuff in my own archive if it's too big to go
on a copy stand, but would't dare take it into another archive -
it's very big and heavy (and intended for use with long tele lenses
for wildlife). With the Powershot, you'd probably get away with
their trekker or mini trekker.
Other things to think about:
If you use the flash, you get vignetting - a bright round zone and
darker at the edges. It's better to turn it off, but then remember
to check for shadows when using natural light.
Camera shake. If you hand trigger the shutter (as opposed to a
remote release), you can get a small amount of vibration - as I
mentioned, use the delayed shutter release to give the vibration a
chance to die down and to let you get your hands well away (I had to
redo a set when working with a copy stand because it turned out that
a shadow that kept appearing was from my arm passing under one of
the lamps as the shutter went off.
Remember that many libraries and archives will not appreciate you
arriving with a lot of camera gear - it's a good idea to call them
first.
Lesley Robertson
"Lesley Robertson" <l.a.ro...@tnw.tudelft.nl>
Can the camera take a cable release, or does it have a timed
release? With either of those you don't need an extra-stable tripod.
Dale H. Cook; Member, NEHGS and MA Society of Mayflower Descendants;
Plymouth Co. MA Coordinator for the USGenWeb Project
http://members.cox.net/plymouthcounty/index.shtml
"Dale H. Cook" <bridgewate...@cox.net>
Kay
"Robert J. Harper" <kbh...@yahoo.com>
Thanks, Lesley. To use the delay shutter feature, you select TV
mode? (Not finding the manual's index that helpful.)
And thanks to everyone else for their comments.
> I've been given a Canon PowerShot A620 which has a macro mode,
> making it possible to take pictures of text that's clear enough to
> be useful. I've tried this with a few things at home, but I'm
> fairly certain (okay, hoping) that people here have some advice on
> how to best use this feature when doing research.
7MP... You may not need macro mode... Back up and use the zoom to
fill the LCD panel.
With ~3000x2300 resolution, you have ~270DPI on an 11x8.5 page.
"NLQ" on printers in the mid-80s was a mere 180DPI, and
letter-quality laser printers were 300DPI.
Macro, on these cameras, typically means focusing under 7-12
inches. Using wide-angle and macro means getting so close you get
distortion -- the corners of a "page" (say) will look smaller than
the center. Say 7 inches for example.
From camera to center of page is 7". From center to corner is:
sqrt((11 / 2) ^ 2 + (8.5 / 2) ^ 2) => 6.9" making camera to corner:
sqrt(7 ^ 2 + 6.9 ^2) => 9.8". The corner is 40% further away from
the camera, so the text near the corner will also look like it is
40% further away.
OTOH; if the telephoto end of the zoom lets you back up to,
say 20" for the same coverage, you get: sqrt(20 ^ 2 + 6.9 ^ 2) =>
21.2, or a mere 5% distance increase.
> Also, can anyone recommend a tripod that is rock solid stable in
> order to eliminate camera shake when taking pictures in macro mode?
What's your budget? (Actually if it is just document pages you
intend to work with, a "copy stand" might be better). None of my
tripods is really rated for the types of cameras I put on them, and
mine are in the $100 range.
http://www.adorama.com/SLU212D.html
Prices have come down some... I paid more like $120 for a U112
15-years ago.
However, of more use -- use the self-timer (or a remote; does
the A620 have infra-red capability).
--
bieber.genealogy Dennis Lee Bieber
HTTP://home.earthlink.net/~bieber.genealogy/
Dennis Lee Bieber <bieber.g...@earthlink.net>
I used a phone cam for some useful pictures
see http://karl-dane.blogspot.com/
for some examples
for OCR you need 300dpi and a clean copy
otherwise quicker to type it in
Hugh W
--
new computer = new blog
http://mac-on-intel.blogspot.com/
daily blogs with new photos
http://snaps2006.blogspot.com/
http://slim2005.blogspot.com/
family history
http://hughw36.blogspot.com/
Hugh Watkins <hugh.w...@gmail.com>
i do a lot with a cell phone cam in poor light
the trick is to breathe out and relax and be still
I have a SuperPen that I use for scanning. It's pretty good, but
you're right, there are times when it's just quicker to type it in.
I'm thinking the camera is for those times I don't have my pen
scanner with me, the document in question is probably not something
I want to scan (for lots of reasons, like legibility, condition,
etc.) I can always attempt to scan from a photo later, or just
extract information from the photo I've made, and insert the picture
into my database.
"John Nichols" <be...@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Dennis, good to see you again.
I don't have a set budget on the tripod issue. I own a ProMaster
mini-tripod. I used that as a test on document I have, and didn't
feel that it was all that steady. However, I'm going to try what
you suggest with the zoom, and see what kind of results that gives
me.
I am not sure if it has infra red capability (for what I assume you
mean is remote operation), I'm finding both the Basic and Advanced
manuals singularly unhelpful in regards to my questions.
I'll have to check the Adorama Camera link out, I've purchased
several astronomy items from them over the last two years via
Amazon.com, and have so far been very pleased.
Right now I've got things like my mother's will, marriage licenses
of other relatives, etc., that are really two big for my Canon
scanner that I'd like to photograph and put in my database. I also
figure that if I can get proficient at working with what I already
have this way then I'll be more confident of getting good results
out in the field.
Another thing I'd like is a really good up-to-date (i.e. published
within the last year) book on digital photography. Then I wouldn't
have to pester people here. :)
"John Nichols" <be...@worldnet.att.net>
Tv is "TimeValue" -> aka Shutter Priority Automation (you
set the desired shutter speed, the camera picks the best aperture
for the correct exposure).
You want the self timer. Look for a symbol like a stop-
watch dial. (circle with a pointer) Typically that will give you
a 10-second delay between press and exposure.
No, leave it on auto but with the flash off. Somewhere on one of
the menus (sorry, the camera's at work and I'm not) there's a mode
feature that brings up a couple of little clocks at the bottom of
the screen. The symbol on the left is instant, then there's a clock
with a 2 and one with a 10 - these are 2 and 10 second delays,
choose them with the arrow keys.
> I don't have a set budget on the tripod issue. I own a ProMaster
> mini-tripod. I used that as a test on document I have, and didn't
> feel that it was all that steady. However, I'm going to try what
> you suggest with the zoom, and see what kind of results that gives
> me.
With self-timer or remote, indoors should be okay (wind is
another matter, when outdoors).
I still have my first tripod, from 1971... It looks like a
typical table-top model (6-8" legs, ball-head). I showed it to
someone at a photo store once, and they wanted to buy it. Not the
most stable, but those legs extend to make it a waist level tripod.
The Slik U112 I own is nice in that it has a reversible column --
the tilt/pan head unscrews, and can be mounted on the bottom of the
column. Also short enough to bungie onto the seat of my Vespa without
being a danger to others <G>
I also have a more recent tripod that was on sale at $70 --
again, not the most stable, but the column extends enough to put the
camera over my head. Useful for getting over the crowd with a video
camera.
> I am not sure if it has infra red capability (for what I assume you
> mean is remote operation), I'm finding both the Basic and Advanced
> manuals singularly unhelpful in regards to my questions.
Yes, I did mean for a remote. I have a Canon G2 (really
obsolete, only 4MP and the G6 is 7MP) came with an IR remote, that
could even control the zoom. Strangely, while my Canon EOS 10s
(film, 1990 period) had an IR remote, my EOS 20d requires a wired
remote (at $$$ -- the 10s also had a built-in interval timer, the
20d needs the fancy remote for that function).
[You may notice that I seem to be a Canon fan: A-1, EOS 10s, G2, EOS
20d, and an Optima-40 video; though I do have my father's old (1955)
Agfa Karat rangefinder, a 1970 Mamiya/Sekor 528TL, and a Polaroid]
> I'll have to check the Adorama Camera link out, I've purchased
I'd just done a quick search for tripods, may be other
places to shop...
> Another thing I'd like is a really good up-to-date (i.e. published
> within the last year) book on digital photography. Then I wouldn't
If it's been published, it's out of date <G>
Most any fairly recent digital camera book should be
applicable, if one can get past the "high resolution models have
3MP"
Mastering Digital Photography, 2nd Ed. (David, D. Busch,
2006, Thomson Course Technology) may be of interest (he also has an
SLR specific version -- Mastering Digital SLR Photography -- which
is thinner, and maybe older). Don't let the title fool you, it's
classed as "beginner to intermediate".
OK, I've got my hands on my work Powershot (which is a A85, but
Canon's fairly conservative about symbols so it shouldn't matter).
There's a button labelled FUNC (also has a curious symbol like a bit
of paper going into a bin. Push that in photo-taking mode and it
offers you all sorts of opportunities including DRIVE MODE, which is
what I was talking about above.
Digital Photography might be the only frontier changing faster than
computer technology. The basics, however are still covered by the
same techniques as 35mm photography.
But for some pointers to current 'good books' and a wealth of other
info - be sure to subscribe to rec.photo.digital.
Jim